How In Hell the Color Wheel Relates to Hair Color - Master Becoming A Crib Colorist

The Color Wheel and Hair Color...
Identifying your Natural LEVEL is the first step in understanding PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR for the Home Hair Colorist.

The next most valuable tool is the Color Wheel, remember the color wheel from elementary school? That probably sounds odd, let me simplify it.

Its important to have a general understanding of how colors work together, you may already know but let me review and how it relates to Hair Color. Remember I am trying to help you learn to Color your hair correctly at home and that's it! If you can understand the color wheel.... when you have colored your hair blond and it has this weird cast of green to it ??? knowing the color wheel well -will help you understand how it got there and more importantly how to get rid of it. I still to this day will glance at it - I love color, but looking at the wheel can settle many questions with hair.

The LAW OF COLOR is a system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. Equal parts of Red and Blue together always make violet. The Color Wheels on this page should help you understand the relationships.


PRIMARY COLORS: are pure fundamental colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture. The primary colors are blue,red and yellow. All colors are created from these colors. Colors predominantly blue are "cool" toned colors...many hair colors are referred to as Cool - Icy ...which usually means have a 'blue base' or 'blue cast' to them. Colors with a predominance of red are "warm" toned colors ... on the flip side many hair colors are also referred to as "warm" in hair color meaning they have red base.

Blue is the darkest of the primary colors and is the only cool primary color. In addition to coolness, blue also brings depth or darkness to any color to which it is added.

Become An Educated Crib Colorist
It is completely necessary to understand COLOR THEORY in order to become a decent Crib Colorist.
First we have Primary hair Colors which are Red, Blue & Yellow. From Red-Blue-& Yellow we can make EVERY SINGLE COLOR on earth! Think about that. So that means that every hair color that exists, is made up of different variations of Red-Blue & Yellow . . .in varying amounts of each color. Therefore when you take away or add opposing colors it fixes or creates your desired hair color.

Take a few minutes and begin hearing some facts about color theory. Let them absorb and we will talk about the subject again.

Red is the medium primary color. Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear lighter. Red added to yellow colors will cause them to become darker.

Yellow is the lightest of the primary colors. When you add yellow to other colors, the resulting color is lighter and brighter in appearance.

When all 3 colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is BLACK! It helps to think of hair colors in terms of their relative proportions of primary colors. NEUTRAL BROWN, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue --- B, red --- RR, yellow---YYY.

hang in there . . . don't want to put anyone to sleep..........

Secondary Colors: a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors...secondary colors are: green, orange and violet .

Blue + Yellow = Green

Red + Yellow = Orange

Red + Blue = Violet

Tertiary Colors is an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. Tertiary colors include blue-green, blue-violet,red-violet,red-orange,yellow-orange, and yellow-green. Natural looking hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors.

Last one! and this is the one that saves your butt every time!

my fav...

Complementary Colors are a primary and secondary colors positioned opposite each other on the color wheel. The colors of the BLOGGER website are complementary and many logos and insignias because they "pop". Complementary colors include:

blue........and orange

red..........and green

yellow ....and violet

This where they come in handy...  

Complementary colors NEUTRALIZE each other . When formulating hair color, you will find that it is often your goal to emphasize or distract from skin tones or eye color or to NEUTRALIZE or refine unwanted tones in the hair. Understanding complementary colors will help you choose the appropriate tones to accomplish that goal.

A very common problem, so that you can "picture" this in your mind.... which should help you understand it.

Ever seen a bleached blond who didn't leave the bleach on long enough??? and its this horrid shade of YELLOW , its a very common problem. If you take that head of hair and purchase what is called a "toner" I have always used the analogy of a "NYLON" to my clients . When you shove your arm into a pair of nylons you can still see your arm it just has a "see-thru" cast to it....? correct?? the cast is whatever color "nylon" you chose.

Same with Toners, you can "see" thru them.

So with the very YELLOW bleached blond hair....

WHICH color toner would you track down?

To NEUTRALIZE the YELLOW . . . . . .??? ? ? ?

Look at the color wheel.......................

which color NEUTRALIZES --Yellow ................follow the color wheel ............where??............opposite side.............

Violet.

Violet based Toner.

A COOL BASED VIOLET toner,will knock that yellow out of the ball park! So NO MORE BRASS! ! ! 

Fun and Games

The missing primary color in this game is what you would use to neutralize the unwanted tone.

Find the color to neutralize the following:

Orange ?

Green ?

Violet ?

Really spend time trying to learn Color Theory  . . .one day, I promise it will just click, as I have watched all my assistants learn over the years.

BECOME A CRIB COLORIST -- Learn The "Level System" - Its Very Important to Know What Level Hair YOU Have ?

The Level System
What level are you?

Everyone MUST understand a few of the basic rules of Hair Color, they are not difficult, they are easy. I want you to understand them so a much larger percentage of women will be able to color their hair at home and it will come out correctly. There are just too many people having their hair destroyed by BOXED HAIR COLOR KITS. The big corporate guys will hate me for saying this, but as long as all of you continue to support me, they can't wipe me off of the face of the web. Those boxed hair color ( I call it Crap-in-a-Box) should be banned by the FDA in my opinion.

This is why Crap-In-A-Box doesn't work.......

In each box color you are given 1 Volume of developer. From what you have learned through me and my teachings, how could 1 Volume developer work for each and every person that picks up that one box when there are so many to choose from? What if they put 20 Volume in that box and you needed 40Volume? That is why so many who use Box Color - - end up in a Salon for a costly, lengthy Color Correction session

Using the Level System gives you more flexibility, so you are not given a set bottle of hair color with a set bottle of peroxide ( that come in those damn Kits) for everyone.

 LEVEL is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color; it is sometimes referred to as value or depth. Colorists use the LEVEL SYSTEM to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color (See chart 02-01).

Hair color levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 12, with 1 being the darkest and 12 being the lightest ( not too long ago it was 1-10 ;some new HIGH LIFT Blonde's added 2 more light levels). The names for the natural hair color levels may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but they each use this chart as the base.

What I want you to learn here is simple....try to get very comfortable with these Levels and especially:

KNOW YOUR OWN VIRGIN (without color or anything on it) LEVEL OF HAIR COLOR

that is an important piece of info and will be important for the rest of your life(even though it will change as you turn grey!)

Please figure that out right now and email to me ______________.

If you are a redhead (as am I) its a tiny bit more complicated, you still use the same chart to figure it out, you would just draw your finger across the chart to the different "hues" it goes from Gold/Red to Red to Red/Gold to Red/Violet and keeps going as well.
For example:
KILLER CHEMIST > NATURAL LEVEL COLOR: I am a Level 8/RG
which means my roots or virgin hair is a LEVEL 8 Red/Gold (or Light Copper). Knowing that piece of info helps me be able to figure out more accurately what to use to color my hair with hair color.

You will impress the Hell out of your Hair stylist as well, if you go into your next appointment spouting off the "levels" - they will be very impressed. I have run into many a Hair Stylist that still have not memorized them (but they should).

Using and knowing this chart really well, is what you need to learn in order for you to become a good HOME HAIR COLORIST.

I'm going to plaster this onto your brain this week. .. by showing you many different ways to memorize and relate it to your hair...

So get ready!

Bleaching Hair At Home - Correctly : Becoming a Crib Colorist

Our most asked about issue regarding hair color is 'how to get the brass out of Blond'.... that... & how to get blond hair at home without damage or problems.

If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise.  Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.

This is when you grab your Color Wheel......and continually  look for the color Opposing the color you are trying to diminish.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?..............Purple.
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps. 
We have a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the Oil Bleach Kits.

 Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies is included in that kit.

For 20 years I have been looking for a professional BLUE DEVELOPER and we finally have one in the store. What does BLUE counter on the counter wheel GOLD or ORANGE or what I refer to as BLORANGE ! So, we now have a blue developer option. ! I am so happy to offer this to many of you.

I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in
!

For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.

What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when  it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.

Notice the 2 completely different shades (tones) of bleached blonde hair of these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be costly and tiresome. Some of you have so much natural yellow DURP, that a toner is necessary, we have a page of Toners. 






YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow

I have 2 Toners I love from LAKME, 
one fights brass................................................................10/22 + 13.Volume or 6V.
and one fight Blorange......................Blue /Ash Platinum 10/17 + 6.Volume or 13 V.

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.

As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Purple.
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem. 

objectionable shades in hair colors

• in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing + as well as Gold / or Blorange
• redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
• objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color. 
  Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair

Yellow Bleached hair is probably one of the worst things on planet earth.
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the color wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer.....which is why you would order BREAKING BAD BLUE BURST Conditioner if you would like to cancel those Gold-y - BLOrange Tones that are so irritating

PLATINUM   BEAUTY

This is what a cool clean platinum should look like and in acieving platinum almost every single person is capable of achieving this color. You do not need to be somebody special, you just need to use all the tools available to achieve it. That, and apply the bleach multiple times. Applying it once is for  Virgin Level 9.............Applying it Twice........is for Virgin Level 7 + 8............Applying it 3X is for Virgin Level 6.............Applying it 4 X is for virgin Level 4 & 5............and so on......Level

Lighteners

As soon as Lighteners are mixed with hydrogen peroxide...it begins to release Oxygen. This process is known as oxidation - - - occurs within the cortex of the hair!

Again . . . Lighteners are used to create a BLOND shade that is no longer achievable
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ???         Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.

Lighteners usually come in 1 of 2 forms : Powder..............or Cream.

Here at Killerstrands we have the old school method of an "Oil Bleach" : Which means a bleach one can mix up with Oil + Developer and apply directly to the scalp without any irritation to the Client at all. Its funny in all my years there is no way to tell who will be sensitive to Lightener or not....therefore I ALWAYS apply Oil Bleach to a client who desires a look such as Mr. Pitt's (and whiter of course!!).

Powder Lightener ( powder bleach)

 This lightener is the old standard. Most everyone uses it for just about any lightening they have. I'm hesitant to tell you all the ways people MIS-Use it. So, I won't.

Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names

1. Toner


2. Semi-Permanent color


3. Demi-Permanent color

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / sheer cover over the hair...........they add shine and cancel unwanted tones.... They also do wash out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo. 

Here at Killerstrands, we make sure to ONLY SELL SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO!

Color Wheels for Reference

go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize

Hues That Girl? The Shampoo Train - Hair Color Removal 101

There a lot of you who have bought VANISH, its back-ordered & will be here later today...While you are waiting - PLEASE. . .BEGIN THE SHAMPOO TRAIN - this is the 'KC' trick (that helps you save money on the color removal process - which in a Salon can cost well over $500.) 

also helps you prepare to go platinum/blond

Whoops, now what?

In order to re-do any bad color. . . the very 1st process MUST BE . . . 
Removing the old color 1st & foremost....and the more you remove the better the Re-color will be !

The minute you figure out your hair color is not what you want, or is a complete mistake . . . the very first thing you should do? Walk into your bathroom, find the crappiest shampoo you can. Shampoo your hair and leave the shampoo in the hair for a couple hours. What we are looking for when we need to correct the wrong hair color is to begin loosening the hair color molecules that are trapped in the hair strand. As silly and simple as it sounds, one of the most common and gentle methods of fading artificial hair color is  “crappy shampoo”. It is the number one method that fades color from color to re-coloring. 

Therefore it only makes sense to use it.

 In hair color as in life, common sense can be your best friend.




The title of the procedure? the Shampoo Train. Why? Because it involves application after application of shampoo, while waiting for your color remover to arrive and for you to do the research needed to fix your hair color. One of the most alarming realizations I came to in listening to the women of America talk about the problems they have with getting the proper hair color ? Was not that they couldn’t afford to go to a competent hair colorist, it was that they could not “FIND ONE”! !! !! What a horrible thing to hear….Wow that was a wake-up call for me ! You will find if you read this Blog from the beginning until now, that I had completely different ideas at the beginning. I had absolutely no intentions of teaching America how to formulate their own hair color, it is hard enough to teach certified Hair Stylists how to. When I found that to be the biggest problem I changed game plans … I truly wanted to “give-back” and I felt by teaching what I knew about hair color and hair health it would probably be the most appreciated advice I could give. That’s what happens when you fall ill ( you become reflective!)

As simple as shampooing sounds it is always what I have recommended to anyone stopping by, or calling me in a panic about their hair color. It would be great if you could  use our Redken stripping  Shampoo with for that process, but if speed & panic is in the equation - - use Prell or the crappiest shampoo under your sink! Using the most gentle manner to fade unwanted color out of the hair is always the best decision so grab the shampoo wet your hair and wash those strands like they did in the old days on a ‘wash board”… rubbing your 2 hands together with strands in between. I am dead serious this is the key to getting the hair color ready to be fully removed.

SHAMPOO TRAIN

• Wet hair
• Cheap lousy shampoo application
• Use plenty of shampoo
• Scrub hands together w/ strands in-between
• leave suds on hair, apply plastic treatment cap
• use heat from hair dryer/sun {helps color molecules loosen}
• leave suds on 45-60 min
• rinse & repeat
• up to 5 times daily

Now the modified version of the Shampoo Train for those of you that don’t want to bother:
MINI-SHAMPOO TRAIN

• Wet hair
• Cheap lousy shampoo
• use plenty of shampoo
• Scrub hands with strands in between
• leave suds on hair while sleeping or 10 minutes
• rinse
• repeat daily

The Full shampoo Train is the best ……….with the mini-Train the next and obviously none… is not so good. I promise you, this step is the beginning of a safe and healthy home Hair Color Correction. This is what is used on celebs whom want the health of their hair kept in tact. As always, I am always watching out for the health of the hair. This is the single healthiest manner of removing artificial hair color ( of any type) from the hair.
The next step is using the color remover I recommend, BUT . . . the day you apply the color remover, …..about 80% end up with a decent color the other 20% will be some horrendous shade of Orange/Yellow. Depends on a million and 1 variables. So I recommend that you be prepared to re-color at time of Color Removal. In order to not make the same mistakes, this is when I hope you will take the time to read as many posts that I have written over the past 3 years that have to do with what you would like to do to your hair. Your options have been minimized but still remember - - YOU ARE LEARNING to take control of your own hair.

Many times I will get this question, “how can I take the blond “out” of my hair . . .( for whatever reason) ?? This takes a lot of explaining . . . and there are many times, like right now, when I simply cannot figure out exactly how to explain it…its a bizarre concept. Nor can I think of one other correlation so I can compare it to something familiar for you…………….It is a fairly UNIQUE concept. You cannot take blond “out” of hair. When you are beginning with darker hair and going towards BLOND, the way you get there is NOT by putting “blond” into the hair. It is by taking your own darker pigmented hair color OUT OF YOUR HAIR, that ‘creates’ the blond. We call it, “lifting”in the hair color world which basically equals “lightening”. When I say that 30 Volume Developer “lifts” hair 2-3 levels, it means: when a particular hair color mixed with 30 volume developer is applied to your hair it will “lift” 
(lighten) your hair 2-3 levels lighter than what it is.

 Therefore, if you have applied this color and to achieve the blond – the process need to take your existing color out of the hair strand….in order to lighten it. Then does it now make sense to you that blond is really “not” a color….what it is, is your own hair color – lifted out of the strand. Which I hope makes it clear to you why “DURP” is so damned important.
DURP is Dominant-Underlying- Remaining-Pigment. When I explain that if you have “good DURP”, this is what I am referring to. The stages in which Levels of your hair color “leave” the hair strand can leave in a ‘good way’ or they can leave in a “bad way’. What does that 

depend on?............ The Lord up above !

Therefore if you were a level 7 and were headed towards a level 10B and ended up with some weird horrific level 9G…that would be what we are talking about. You did not apply a blond in order to achieve that 9-GOLD you applied a tint with a 30 volume developer that was working to subtract your own pigment from your hair strand and what happens is , it stops at some point. The color stops being “lifted” from the hair strand at a certain point, where that color stops is the blond you are left with. There fore it is NOT blond you have put “IN” to the strand, but. . . . Color (your very own pigment) that has been “lifted” out. When I refer to DURP . . . and why it is just so very very important . . . it is for this very reason that as Colorists, as Chemists, as Magicians we have no control over. The DURP you have and the blond you “become” are a total equation of God’s making! 

 



As Colorists, and what I try very hard to teach you here . . . we try to work with your DURP and “counter” it or “enhance” it depending upon what your is. That is the making of a “manufactured blond” . . or a manufactured color of any color for that matter. I know it sounds confusing and is a bit hard to swallow, but just keep reading this post over and over . . . I promise you - - if you do, you will begin to understand the concept of hair coloring and hair coloring gone wrong. 




When you have strong orange tones in your hair, those will be the ones that keep your hair from going to that pretty baby blond you want …so we try to use a “blue” based Blond to “counter” the orange pigments, in picking our blond. Using the new MAGMA Blondor bleach that actually bleaches and tones in one step actually tones the hair “blue” while it is lightening it. Just the fact that one entire product has put blue pigment in the mix, should show you how strong that (God-awful) orange pigment really is and why so many people end up with that horrific brassy- orange mess.

Now, once you have got the shampoo-train going on your hair to begin loosening the molecules, the next step should be to begin your research on the product VANISH. 

More to come………………













Killer Chemist
KC

Blee-atched Blonding Hair Coloring - Platinum Hair - DEMO DISCUSSION

Here is a review or our blee-ached blonde series
 make sure you have all the preliminary basics -




.
8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.
# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment: having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural pigment.



 
Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Cream Oil Bleach

 Comment about Oil Bleach Kit.... April 2,2015......by Amanda ....Killerstrands Group

 Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.

• Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way I have you mix it, is important.
• A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be making one application or 2. If you are beginning to turn long hair platinum you will want to make 1 gigantic batch (using both applications) and apply that to the lengths of the hair all the way up to 1 inch from the scalp. Leave that 1 inch from the head without lightener until the very end. If you have Level's 2-4 virgin hair, you will want to apply lightener to the lengths 2 or 3 times without hitting the BASE. Then at the very end apply lightener to the base(roots)..........why?.......the heat from the head makes the lightener 1 inch from the head lighten 3 X times as fast as the lengths.....the goal is to have evenly lightened hair - if you remember that as the # 1 important goal. You will have happy - healthy shiny hair at all times !
  
  . Remember almost everyone will think they should use  higher than 20 Volume on the base (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school !
  
   If you do have Level 2-4 Virgin hair that you are beginning with please request at least 1 of the Kits you purchase for a swap out of the Violet Developer to 40 Volume. I believe its OK if your hair is that dark naturally to apply 40 Volume Violet developer using the cream oil lightener base and Gleam oil addition to the mixture..........never forget those items!

• I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle,  I want to encourage you to please please practice with a Tint Brush and Tint Bowl there is a reason the pros use it...........why? The pressure from spreading the product on with a brush helps the color come out even....Remember we are trying to become Crib Colorists which means you are as good as a pro only you do it at home !

** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.

** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next

Then just continuing to move down one section at a time applying the color & combing it thru.......... 

When someone apply's hair color TO your head you go from the bottom, to the top .........when you are applying it to yourself you will work in reverse with a wall mounted rear-view mirrors. 
We used to carry Jerdon's