9 Steps to Take Seriously Befor Coloring Your Hair

9 Steps to Pray About Before You Color Yo' Hair

In order to color hair so it both covers gray and stays beautifully rich some of us have acquired tricks that we like to keep to ourselves. That way we keep a nice stream of clients filling our chairs on a regular basis.

Those tricks us pro's keep a secret were taught to us by our educators, now that I no longer have the capacity to work in that field -- I feel keeping those tricks "a secret" is a ridiculous way to be a "productive person" in Todays' society. What we were/are keeping a secret is "education" and what good is education if we are not using it to "teach others" ???  Therefore I made a very conscience decision to open up the vault of secrets of hair coloring to the public so many who live in remote areas or that simply cannot afford a talented Colorist may learn "on-their-own" to become a Crib colorist themselves and once and for all can finally achieve the beautiful and shiny hair color that they deserve.

 A point to remember ... the steps and ideas noted here are not taken into account when you purchase those boxed kits. So if none of them are taken into account, I simply do not understand how the manufacturers of those kits can assume the hair will be colored correctly.


They won't because there needs to be some education that people understand before they attempt to color their hair. Let me relate it to cooking once again. Lets say you have purchased a Rice-A-Roni Boxed kit in the grocery store. You take that home to make it, read the directions on the box ...follow them and have something pretty darn close to what the maker hoped you would. Otherwise, I can guarantee you would not keep continuing to purchase it...it would be history, and why? There are lots of other boxed kits of food to chose from. Now, on that box of Rice-A-Roni it tells you to measure 1 Tablespoon of this and 1/2 teaspoon of that, and to bring to boil. Where did you learn what a Tablespoon is compared to a teaspoon? Where did you learn what a "boil" is ? cooking is chemistry as well ... just like hair color. Which is precisely my point within the boundaries of hair color, certain rules, or laws, or guidelines need to be known before the task is taken on so the result is not a disaster. 

No where does it say that on those boxes, it gives no instructions on hair type, texture, structure,prior hair color treatments, light, porosity, color saturation...none of that. Which is 'why' the results are most times atrocious. Why can't they all go to separate color and developer stations - with instruction sheets. That's all I am saying. I have never felt that the entire idea needs to be scrapped, I just think it all needs to be sold like it is in the beauty supply - separately - with a sheet of instructions. It does NOT work in a boxed kit, nor will it ever.....please STOP PURCHASING boxed color, so it will GO AWAY!

Every time I look at the new ads with Eva Langoria or Jennifer Lopez shouting the wonders of a $8.00 boxed hair color kit and how it has done this or that to their hair. Notice they are all wearing wigs!. Yep the wig has been colored by the $8.00 box of hair color. To prove my point take a look at one of Tina Fey's GARNIER Boxed hair color ads, then google a photo of her sans make-up and hair. She has thin shortish hair. . . . in the ads she has long super thick hair, they don't even make it hard to see anymore. I just want to scream this from the highest building!

 For the most important point there are a minimum of 4 colors in this look below, so how in the bloody hell can she even claim to use one box with one color in it, is beyond me. It makes me lose total respect for the women that choose to do these commercials or ads. They could choose to do another ad, do mascara, do foundation - Hell do shampoo, but to lie about what the color is on your hair? I couldn't do it myself I don't think.
I have done this exact look on others, when I do a stars hair I either sign a piece of paper called a Confidentiality Agreement or I verbally agree to one. Being a 31 year member of the Screen Actors Guild makes me stick to my word so I will not give out names - as I never have. So you will never hear who, you will just have to trust that its the truth. I know my information is top notch so I have no worries, no doubts & no guilt.

 A million dollar movie star has never ever put an $8.00 boxed kit on their hair, their Stylist,Colorist,Lawyer, Publicist, and Agent would not allow it...let alone the star. One move like that could destroy a perfectly gorgeous star's career, seen Rene Zellwegers hair lately? Thank the Hair Gods above for gorgeous wigs.

I have 2 words I'd like to define for you... they both are difficult to understand and explain, which is why I have been avoiding them...today I begin the battle:

Porous: Describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb

Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb liquid or moisture

9 Steps to take seriously before coloring hair

1. What is Your Ethnic Group

This is a little trick learned from the Europeans I find handy . Because each type of hair responds differently to color, its important to understand the nature of the hair you have. Do you have Nordic, Celtic, Latin, Mediterranean, Asian, or African Hair. Refer to the 2 families of Hair charts below. Across the top are the LEVELS, the more you understand the Levels - the better for your success as a Home Pro Hair Colorist remember.





The number 1 color of hair in the entire world? .........BLACK


The most rare: RED
Just one more way of understanding how hair color works the best





2. Evaluate Your Hair Texture

Different weights and types of hair will respond differently when color is applied. Texture refers to the diameter of each shaft of hair, Usually categorized by fine, medium or coarse. It is essential to be familiar with how various textures of hair will react to color. Hair density differs not only from one individual to another but also from strand to strand on the same persons head - to further confuse things. It is best determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers if you do not know your texture - give it a try. The 3 types of hair have the following characteristics

• Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, go one half to one level lighter will always be a good idea


• Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.


• Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate.


• The most difficult? Hair with a high degree of uneven porosity (see above) needs to be formulated with a partial portion of bottled color - helps with even-ness.

3. Hair Density

Hair density measures the number of strands of hair on the head, indicating how thick or thin the hair is. Individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities, I know - I know it all can be so damn confusing, just hang in there with me. Some individuals with fine hair texture, characterized by each hair having a small diameter, may have high density, with many individual hairs per square inch. Others with coarse hair texture, characterized by each hair having a large diameter, may have low density, with few individuals hairs per square inch.

4. Determine your Natural Level

Take a good close look to see exactly what color it is in its natural state, this will give you the information you need to plan the coloring process.

When in doubt about which exact color you are  - - - - - match your virgin hair with the charts in the "N" row of the Wella Koleston Perfect chart in the store. Or check out one of the

5. Determine the Amount of Gray Hair

Since white or gray hair acts differently with hair color than pigmented hair, even a home hair colorist must first assess the amount of gray present on their noggin'.


If hair is more than 30 percent gray, choose your target level, use the "N" series on those charts again and now add the tonal group to the assessment. I have not gone into this to the depth I need to yet, but its coming... you will need to use the "N" series to implant the base in that colorless (gray) hair and the tonal choice will give it the warmth or coolness desired. If needed some haircolor from the "Beige/Brown series will also increase coverage of gray. A 20 Volume amount of hydrogen peroxide is always recommended for deposit in this area.

Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.

If you are 80 to 100% gray, a haircolor within the blonde range is generally more flattering that a darker shade. Gray hair has many tricks and complications and deserves a post of its own and its on its way.

6. Have any Previous Hair Color Treatments

Whether or not you have previous color on your hair or not is the single most neglected and misunderstood step. I have the hardest time with getting through to people about this. This is another point that the boxed kits should point out immediately which they do not, the reason they don't? No one would purchase the stuff if it said that, there are figures like 85% of the country is now coloring their hair, so with a figure like that why wouldn't they WANT to put that on the Kit?


Be honest ... with you, with your hair, so many people put color on their hair and then think a stylist won't see it or can tell. Nothing is farther from the truth and nothing could be worse for the outcome of your hair. It affects the outcome - be real , be honest - all color on that hair counts unless its been cut off .




In my opinion hair color must be removed at all times if you are going lighter. Removed, not bleached. There is one and only one color remover I would recommend - it is a professional level color remover and a patented formula from Germany that at one time was known as MODULAT. --which is now called VANISH.  
 I guess there are some other knock-offs out there, that claim to do the same thing - who knew?? !! I'm finding out things even I didn't know with the life of this site. For color removing services in Malibu the prices started at $250. for 1 treatment, usually 2-3 are needed, the price of the product from Killerstrands is $33.00 and does not take a rocket scientist to operate. If you have interest in the item please send an email with "product order" in the subject header to Killerstrands.info@gmail.com.



7. What Is The Result You Want?
Seem silly? You will not believe the amount of people that do not clarify this to themselves before heading to the Beauty Supply. Look through magazines, tear out pages of looks, comb through my sites...even though its been too much for me to do both...I still have an entire blog of photos only...and continue to get emails from people thanking me because they are current hot photos of hair, so look there ...its hooked up so you can download a very clear photo to your own computer. Print the photo out and think about the colors - look and style. Ask others for opinions and try not to make rash decisions. There is something about chicks and hair color and doing it - - - "NOW"- - I have newly discovered thru this site. Come on team lets try to put some proper preparation into this, its a pretty substantial change you are trying to make, I really don't recommend just stop-drop and rolling! Lets plan - prepare and execute, OK?

What is the exact color you want to achieve and how will you get there? Are you prepared for the maintenance work, which is one thing very few of you ever consider. How much maintenance and re-touching will this new color require? Can you handle it? Have you ever used foils? Ever used semi permanent Pink? Consider all the angles and cover what you need to know - prior to D-day or C-day I mean (color)!

8. The importance of the Right Light

Metamerism, which refers to the reflective property of objects as subjective to the type and power of light source, also effects the coloring of hair. How the room is lit where you make your decisions can make a huge difference in the way the color looks on your head and needs to be carefully planned and accounted for.

Do not look at your hair under fluorescent lights when dealing with hair color, it will just not be a happy ending. If you must get a lamp and purchase some incandescent lights with the whitest bulb possible to use just to determine and work with your hair coloring projects, you will thank me in the end. The most highly recommended lights are the halogen white lights, a bit pricier but the oooohooo color is slam-damit-right.

9. Plan for color Saturation

Dyes are different arrangements of molecular structures and tend to modify the light rays that fall on them. This phenomenon is known as color saturation.





It needs to be understood that the intermediate content in a tube or bottle is obviously dependent on the amount of depositing and saturation of color to achieve. The lighter the color level, the less intermediate it will contain. The darker the level, the more the content as you can see by the chart.

Healthy Hair Begins at The Root - 10,000Heads Protocol

What's the Damage?

More than 90% of women use conditioners

but nearly 75% say their hair is damaged.
What's wrong with this picture?
These numbers by Marie Claire magazine are no surprise to me...its something I have been working to combat for years, its just very hard when you feel and think you are the only one trying to combat it. But I trudge on...now through this method, maybe just maybe I will reach the kind of numbers I hoped to before. The health of your hair has always been my main concern. Before anyone had heard of trying to have 'healthy hair' I had hair care cards printed up to give my clients after their first appointment with me - explaining my theory of hair care many of them were shocked that I even cared. Normal estimates of building a new Stylist clientele list are set at 2 years, in other words after 2 years you should have a full book of clients.....no room for anymore....if you don't -- something is wrong with either your work or your personality or something. It took me 9 months and I always attributed that to my concern for the hair health of my clients.
There has never been the proper education in hair health, there aren't even any decent books written on the subject in print (except for Phillip Kingsleys) so its understandable that the general public truly has no idea where to start to have healthy hair.That will be my job here to put it out there via this blog as much as possible, I want to focus on the health of hair as well as coloring it.
The gap between the 90% of women that use conditioners..and the 75% that say their hair is damaged can be lessened ....but ONLY if their hair regimen is changed ...obviously the present one is not working
the survey in Marie Claire also notes that 79% of women are on a mission to solve their damaged hair problem.

So many of the problems and complaints I hear are preventable I wish I had a daily television show and could review these methods . . because most of them are 100% preventable. Not all and yes there are some legitimate problems out there. . . . but nowhere near the 45 million women that are currently suffering. If my 10 steps would be followed I can guarantee there would AT least be 1/2 that many suffering from hair loss - thinning - damage....and I would be much more accurate if I quoted the number at 75%! That is a significant amount of people that would be cured and would be living a much happier and healthier life.

Lets go over 5 of the 10 steps for review

#1 Nutrition........You must change this category & it is not about eliminating food it is about adding the proper foods to make sure you are getting proper nutrition to keep the hair cycle from dying out and fading away. Eat breakfast every single day and eat protein for breakfast - eat broccoli - an apple / and a handful of almonds every single day. All of this is explained in detail back a few months in this blog if you want a more detailed explanation.

#2. Shower Filter...... If you cannot drink the water out of your tap.....then it is too lousy for your hair as well. You need to invest in a shower filter for the shower you use. You can get them for $50. up to $150.....Aquasana seems to be the most popular - scope them out on the web...for a good price

#3. Shampoo . . . . This is soooooooo important, please throw away all your shampoos that are not sulfate-free. I have been touting this horrible ingredient for years and finally the shampoo companies are all coming out with a "sulfate-free' model in the next year. Shampoo alone can explain away fading, orange-y & yellow-y casts, dryness, trashed & destroyed hair. If I really went into the basics of some of the "surfactants" that the manufacturers use to 'clean' your hair you would faint. They just have been way too harsh in my opinion and in my opinion is a huge reason for the tremendous hair loss rise in women in the past 10 years. So please, do your homework and make sure the shampoo you purchase doesn't have SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) or ALS ( Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate) or anything remotely close to those names. Write them down put them in your wallet, so you have them the next time you are shopping, I'm sorry but I just wouldn't trust the sales help...they don't know.

4. Stress-Free Daily life > you will probably chuckle at this one, like oh sure that's easy to do.. When people pay money to the clinic to become a 30 or 90 day client, they are required to follow all 10 steps, I know they never DO follow all of them but I pray they follow the most they can handle. This step requires 2 activities I tell them are imperative...
#1 Yoga for 35-45 minutes 3 or 4 days per week- the UPSIDE DOWN factor is what helps this a large percentage of the time
#2 Walking 35-45 minutes 3-4 days per week with NO music and No other people - alone with your thoughts

5. Water . Must drink at least 1 quart of WATER every day. Water energizes the root of the hair strand and that is where the decision and the future of your hair lies....IN THE ROOT.
The only way to turn health starved hair into luxurious hair is by drastic measures...it CAN be done....my clients do it all the time....
When a little confused as to which topic needs attention I hope to always go back to the basics, the health of the hair. When trying to solve the daily nightmare of get your hair right . . . because as we all know when your hairs not right. ...neither is your day. This Blog's goal is to stress the importance of 'prevention' rather than 'treatment' a little statement I stole from the medical community - that is what doctors tell patients about Cancer, well it also applies to hair health. I'm telling you if I can have this obnoxiously long thick hair so can every one of you.

I know many of my clients that are experiencing hair loss that would trade cancer for hair loss any day...isn't that amazing to even imagine? So even if you don't have this problem be aware that right now over 45 million women are suffering from this in the year 2008, that is one helluva lot of women. The problem is growing at an incredible rate, I want to help that stop. 10,000 Heads is the best protocol I have seen or heard of to date . . . if this is an issue for you email me and we can get you started. Killerstrands@gmail.com

Drop Dead Hair @ Killerstrands.blogspot.com

Trouble Coming Up with Your Color Formula?

We have a wonderful Intimate Group on a platform called Group Spaces, that we would like to invite you to come visit and join if it is what you need. It's the beginning of a New year..... make a pact with yourself to revitalize your hair. 

EVERY SINGLE PERSON CAN 

HAVE BEAUTIFUL HAIR !

YOU have the brains and with a little me help from me you will have the knowledge to learn how to achieve it along with taking up a new hobby : Hair Coloring and becoming a Crib Colorist.

They turned "cooking" into the world's biggest hobby...... I remember years ago "cooking" was something that was 'labored over' ! Hair Coloring (scientifically) is similar to cooking. So I want to turn everyone I can into a Crib Colorist - when people do go through the group they are so elated and 'on top of the moon' with what they have accomplished I want to share that experience with all of you in your attempts to have beautiful hair. .

We have a small fee for the first month ( a little more than a $1.00/day) then if you wish to remain, its only $10.00 month. Or you can quit after the first month. Our Crib Colorist  Group makes it very easy to get started so you don't have to worry there.

Our manager, April, will send you the Killer 14 questions you must answer amd get you set up, and we need a couple photos of your hair (sides,front,back ) No one wants a Blind Colorist.....the photos just really help me, help YOU !

 Please hop over to our Group Spaces Group

Join our Group which works in conjunction with this Blog. The idea is to read through all the posts here on Killerstrands, then with questions, comments, or simply conversation bring it over to the Group...where we have access to photo uploads and photos of your hair - so I can help you more accurately,

I love this particular Group ( its my 3rd one) - its easy to maneuver, easy to load up your photo's, etc... So m,y little pet project of turning American women in to Crib Colorists Begins as of January 1, 2015.

If you would like to join immediately just  to get you there.

12 Common Habits That Will Destroy Your Hair

Clear The Hair : Killer Chemist is Back

Some Yummy Texture to whet the appetite
I added a post this week that I think was largely missed -- it was shoved in 2 days ago. . .in between a couple days.
Be sure to check it out, Level 4 hair swatches are taken through the ringer

Peroxide -- Friend or Foe ?

Now that I have helped befriend our dear darling Peroxide, the inquisition continues. I went looking through my old notebook for the calculations on how to make different Volumes of peroxide for your Color Room out of 130 Volume .I forgot to mention even worse than my writing? My math. Boy, I rarely mention my main faults so early in the game but they are necessary here. I will give you what it says and you all can take it from there. Tho - I'd like a volunteer to field questions about the calculations - please sign up in the Comments section below. (my kids are just like me its a disease math-i-tis I think they call it). 


In addition, I'd like to fill in with what else I can about Hydrogen Peroxide to help you all warm up even more to the little bugger. There are many chemicals just like this little one, which is a terrific project that needs to be rescued by the big MFG. companies, I get my hopes up that big companies like P & G (whom actually I would love to work for > altho only on the "Green" side) might have researchers scoping the net trying to figure out the future of Hair.

Its easy, its possible and it can be done at reasonable prices. I swear to you I am just not too sure why it is not done now. What is better than a completely happy customer with Killer hair color. The way it is now the only reason people use those damn boxed color kits is because they are afraid to calculate the hair color themselves. I don't believe "fear-driven" success is near as prosperous as "confidant & successful" driven success

There was an instance I bet when I mentioned "chemicals" that blew that fear of "Word Phobia" through your bones, am I right? Be honest - people hear "chemicals" and think; bad - horrible - get them away from me thoughts, when in fact so much of what we need, we require and what we actually want are chemicals in our daily life. Of course there are "bad ones" and "good ones" and there are bad 'amounts' of them and good 'amounts' - that is the fine line that must be maneuvered

Chemicals are all around us, always, and always have been. We are made of chemicals, indeed chemicals R Us. The plants we eat are also full of chemicals. But how does the body deal with these chemicals and what do they do to us?

The chemical industry has been able to make the stunning revelation that everything is made of chemicals! Chemicals are in fact perfectly natural substances and we really need to do more research before throwing them out . Apparently thousands of the so-called 'natural' products of the earth are laced with nasty toxic substances, of which, of course, we were all unaware until this startling discovery was made known to human kind chemicals are not only man made and not all of the chemicals made by man are dangerous and not all of the chemicals found naturally are safe. Some people will say that there must be a difference between things made by chemists in laboratories and things found in nature? It is true, there are differences, natural chemicals are often more complex and chemists find some very difficult to make! For example DNA and proteins are extremely complex. But surely man made chemicals must be more poisonous? Not necessarily true. We won't go into the entire discussion here. I just needed to point out - what I stumbled upon when I began my dive into Cosmetic Chemistry. Being a Vegan and a natural food buff for my entire life (yep californians are weird!) it was a very unusual revelation to come to terms with. So just know I watch out for every single healthy avenue for hair - I truly do, I doubt you will ever encounter a hair stylist more in tune with the "natural" "organic" and "healthy" avenues than me, except for maybe those that don't believe in hair color at all. I also live under the umbrella of " life cannot be all that serious" - we must have some fun, because life is short - play hard.











Again: H2 O is Water: a chemical- bad? I think not. Necessary? Very. When the Developer begins working with your hair color it starts out with 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 of oxygen as soon as it is combined with the hair color 1 of the oxygen molecules is given off and the product is down to what? H2 O! Water. And that is bad? See how things get out of whack? Peroxide is your friend, it really is.

Hydrogen Peroxide is the OXIDIZER of permanent haircolor-ing, providing the Oxygen for

• lightening of natural pigment and for the


• development of artificial pigment.

Those 2 lines say it all, but those are 2 jam packed lines. Read them over a couple times as this will put your mind in the right frame to continue on.

The percentage of lift in any color is directly related to its ammonia content ( remember many stylists will quote "ammonia content" as a bad thing), in the Killerstrands world I: look for LIFT. Lift means lightening - plain and simple - if you don't want to lighten hair, do something else....most decent Colorists are looking to lighten hair...we want more ways to lighten hair....we want more conditioning ways of lightening hair. Don't people want to be blond?.... have blond ribbons, blond pirouettes, or blond under color blocks?? Lightening is the most common coloring technique in the biz... Every single time a new lightening product is developed it is greeted with a very warm reception by 10's of thousands of hair stylists so ammonia content is a very necessary product.

Blondes are very very popular, whether in 1 Color 'all-over-blond' or blond placed in very creative ribbons in a dynamic head of brown. If you can attain the lightening, then you can control it -- or tone it, is my theory. I want as much lift as they can give me, let "me" control the amount I use and where I use it. Maybe they don't because of all the mis-information going on around, but come on... that problem is easily solved. The biggest complaint category of hair color is

• "too brassy"


• "too orange"


• "too yellow"


• "too gold"

....have you all learned this one yet? What would be the reason for these 4 complaints?

Not enough lift - if you have those 4 problems then you have taken the bleach off TOO SOON

So having more lift, while remaining more conditioning & moisturizing has finally hit the manufacturers.Try replacing your conditioner with a SOMA Spray In Dry Conditioner. Conditioners are heavy and hold down the hair, a spray in makes it less heavy, leaving it with more volume! We sell this on our website, check it out!

The 'way' that shampoos work, must be understood.........not simple

Remember me rambling on about SLS shampoos - I did for weeks on end...??? Remember? Sulfate-free shampoos....? ? ? ? Which by the way> every single company on the market has one in production. Well, the one and only reason I have the confidence to make that claim is because I do understand "how" the shampoo works ...how each surfactant works and "how" each ingredient works. I have watched and breathed SLS and seen the damage it can do to a strand of hair...but Technicians do not have that advantage. What they do have is a company telling them whats in each of the shampoos, etc, and hopefully going on their advice. Its a wonderful library of information to have and I Love the fact that I was afforded the time to study all the chemicals and ingredients and know what they are and "why"!

...so I know what everything is now when I look at it...THRIVEN will blow the socks off it - on 86% of the candidates.. So let's hope you are one of those chosen few where the stars meet the sky.


This industry should be setting the trends not lagging on them.The way the industry is now, Hair Color products are antiquated - archaic almost.. Hair color is a tremendously booming business - 2 $ billion a year is a very conservative estimate and the more tools the better for every Colorist: whether it be a Crib Colorist or Pro.





Why not put more tools in the hands of Home Hair Colorists? What's the big secret? There is plenty of hair color that needs to go around... why is there not a level of Pro Hair Color available for the women at home that don't live in LA or NY that desire the quality of hair seen on every magazine cover? There is plenty for the Salon Colorist, which is not available to CRIB COLORISTS - why not? There is so much room for growth - expansion and this subject needs to be talked about and discussed openly so that the women of America are able to achieve decent hair color in their own homes. For the many women that cannot afford or do not live near the high dollar hair salons...they are stuck using hair color products that are a much lower quality than the hair color if they go to Cosmetology School. Do you realize that there are lines of hair color that I may get in trouble for selling to the public - which I cannot figure out "why"?? Anyone care to address this subject with and for me...
How can it be against the law to sell 'certain' hair color?

To certain people?

Then all the hair color in Sally's need to be against the law to sell to the American people....which "brand" is OK? and which one isn't? more importantly - WHY???

Who sets those standards? There aren't any sort of laws.....or rules....or ???? Why can I not sell hair color that I have legally bought, to another person that would like to buy it ?? Because that person has not gone to Cosmetology School, what book is that a law in? That is the most bizarre restriction - ever . I looked in Sally's and the exact same thing is printed on a box of hair color in Sally's that is printed on a box of hair color from a professional company. BOTH of those companies are owned by the same larger company.....that larger company?
P & G. Proctor and Gamble. CLAIROL & WELLA
BOTH OWNED ULTIMATELY - - BY P & G
I'm not done reviewing : ammonia and peroxide so please put that subject in the "hold" category. I ran a whole new demo for Readers to show you what bleach with ammonia and bleach without ammonia did to Level 4 hair.....so stand by.

Blonde Icing Blitz - Off-The-Scalp-Bleach Test

New Professional Blonde Icing (Bleach) Test


Silver Jar - Ammonia w/ bleach Gold Jar -- No Ammonia
Goal: Observe strength of Bleach with & without Ammonia on Level 4 hair strips


1) Apply bleach to Level 4 strips in foil and set timers



















Test one strip with MAGMA Colored Bleach by WELLA : Bleach & Tone in 1 step

Best part? -- it works -

Limitations? Color selection

Koleston Perfect 55RV - Ego

Very difficult to see - I know - the darker the hair the less you see in photos - in person it looked great.
Same color as above notice 55 RVR - RUBY...only in demi permanent. I actually was surprized at how great this color took. For Demi-permanent it was pretty darn close to sister swatch



This test strip was one I really hoped you would be able to see better, a lot of readers have asked about lightening "Level 2 thru Level 5 hair".
This is Level 4 with 12 ASH + 40V = a very nice and warm - Level 7 Hair.




Here are the bleach swatches . . . Check out the Level 4 > lightened 60 minutes

swaches . . . . .




The rest of the swatches.
no toner has been used --
this was a childs hair,
I always believe a childs hair is when your hair will be the best...

What is very apparent here is this . . .

there seems to be absolutely no difference in the bleach "with" ammonia or the Bleach "without" ammonia
?? What does that tell me?? It tells me that "ammonia" is just the "word" of the moment....all the color that is labeled "without ammonia".....
Why?
What does everyone know about ammonia?
what I know - makes me want it -
When I want to lighten hair I want ammonia
so I can get the hair to the proper Level it needs to be, otherwise it will only get to the "orange-gold-yellow" stage, which is what happens when you don't use professional color.

Do you know that is the one big difference in the hair color that you can purchase at Sally's versus the professional color I make available to you ?
the ammonia content.
When you mix professional color the "light" colors pack a punch, when the product is poured into the bowl then the developer is added - the aroma is semi powerful...personally I love it. Some don't - its like that paint smell I guess.
I know something good is going to happen - so I enjoy it...
the sign of a true Hair Colorist!