GAME OF TONES Versus THRONES : Platinum Queen? Tinted Oil Bleach : Mandatory

Platinum Hair is the Hair of the Gods

As the end of Game of Thrones drew to a close the requests for blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box Most of the country. . . wanting a nice platinum blonde. I happen to think Game of THRONES turned into a wonderful story to watch. Its now a love story, but the author of the books already told us that now didn't he. I never knew, til Sunday! Now I want Platinum hair !

Daenerys

 Daernery's hair color...they call it silver on the show , it is merely platinum though, she does wear many different wigs so please don't be under the illusion that is her real hair.


 But we have a product that I have not talked about enough. I was telling a fan about it today as we discussed going blonde and my answer was the number one way to go blonde is our blue/violet tinted oil creamy bleach that we make I am most proud of 3 products we make here at killerstrands that you can get nowhere in the world but here. Blue/Violet tinted oil-Creamy bleach 

 

 Gleam and BLAST..........
I've tested this product on many levels of hair color and the amount of yellow and brass it gets rid of simply amazing. I am not exaggerating....... just having the bleach AND the developer tinted with these colors is truly amazing to me. I wish Colorists would try it just to see the difference it makes. It makes going blond 1 full Level easier, because the blue-violet gets in the strands and really stamps out the damn brass and gold so common when lifting hair lighter.

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application - well on 2nd thought it is a process...because anything you apply to the hair is a process.. But there you have the technical name of the process that you can ask for at any good Hair Salon . My suggestion is, if you are thinking of going platinum, go have a consultation first.  Any good Stylist should give out free consults in my book or charge and take it off the price of the appointment. Its expensive if done correctly ...in my book it should never be a rushed procedure taking time when doing major conversions to the hair make the hair healthier and stronger. Let the hair lighten slowly and evenly  by leaving the lightener on for minimum 65-75 minutes, removing it rinsing, and drying the hair and then re-applying . The trick is the re-application, don't waste time leaving the lightener on longer its just simply the wrong method.

A good colorist knows that at about 65-75 minutes the top strength of the bleach fades and slows to to a crawl. To get maximum and safe lift the true trick we all use is reapplying it and NOT using a dryer - EVER. Bleach is not supposed to have heat applied to it and I hear that so many people get stuck under a hair dryer while they wait for there stylist to free-up from the other person they started. DON'T LET THAT HAPPEN.
 
Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating after this transformation and I am not exaggerating. Its why Colorists love what they do so much......a good one gives a person a new identity 9 times out of 10 and that is an amazing feeling. 

Its amazing what a hair color 

can do to a personality

When mixing Killerstrands Oil Bleach ... (found in Killerstrands Clinic) it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The creme and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If for some reason you forget and begin doing it the wrong way please stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. 

Following the enclosed personal directions from me......to a T....... will give you that

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline

There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, then lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took bring the natural base to yellow


With double process this is important: When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in our Killerstrands INTENSIVE, which will pH balance your hair and stop & lock-in the color . This will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving INTENSIVE on for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  INTENSIVE is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. 






TONER TIME
Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair.  I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? . Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. 

Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.I would truly consider using Boost & Burst if you want or need any toning............why? They are not oxidative - they are Semi-permanent - which means they do not use a developer but work just as well on platinum hair, a nice one to start out with is No-MO-Brass or PERP or Violet Pilot.........let your hair calm down and rest after it has been lightened and it will stay healthy and on your head.

 How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ?  INTENSIVE followed by an overnight conditioning with THRIVEN rinse in cool water in the morning for 8-10 minutes and you will be one very happy Targaryn - I mean Platinum-head .......then go looking for your own Jon Snow.The looks you will get will set you free!