Have Annoying Tones in Your Hair? We Call Those: DURP !

We all have them

We all have annoying tones in our hair. 

I can ask any person what tone in their hair bothers them....or ''what tone would like like to eliminate" . . . and every single person will give me an answer. Some may think about it a minute or two...but everyone has a DURP.

The Term for those Tones ..........DURP - Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment

For the majority of people I speak to that tone is : BRASS or Yellows !

Then : Golds

Then : Blorange

Then : Orange Tones. . . .Red Tones. . . .Green Tones. . . you get the idea - right? 

What is your DURP?

You need to know this in order to come up with your hair color formula.

When all of your orders go out , I can tell by what you have order that you are not taking your DURP into consideration. I really want you all to have the correct hair color formula when purchasing our color. So lets, study DURP a little today and see if I can help you

BLORANGE - DURP....can you  see it?

understand exactly how it plays into coming up with your hair color formula.

So.......to begin with.............Choose your DURP

Read each word so it makes a little more sense to you:

• DOMINANT............the strongest
• UNDERLYING.......beneath surface
• REMAINING..........what's left
• PIGMENT...............color

Dominant

Underlying

Remaining

Pigment..........................and that is whatever the annoying tone that your hair pulls

or which yucky TONE sticks out from your hair that annoys you

95% of people have one

BUT, some people's DURP is 80% annoying and hard to get rid of

approx, 20% of peoples' hair is about 20% annoying and super easy to get rid of

5% of peoples' hair has ZERO DURP..............and that is not very many.

so, the majority of you have an annoying DURP.............

Each one of you has a different degree of annoying qualities in your hair and you ALL HAVE A DIFFERENT WAY OF ELIMINATING THEM! ! !

 

So, you see . . . if you read each of those words . . .individually. . .. the meaning is just the same as "that underlying tone that pops out that drives you crazy ".

THAT is your DURP

Some people have 2 DURPS and those are always right next to each other....for example, if Brass is your DURP, then about 1/2 of the time .... some of you will also have Gold as your DURP.

But, again....there is always one main annoying color (DURP) every one of you have. So now that you have that in mind. The next step is to understand that Permanent hair color (which is what we are reviewing in this post) includes both subtraction(-) of natural pigment and DEPOSIT of artificial pigment in one chemical process. If you think about it ......... it truly is an amazing little process. I mean ..... to specifically only take out ... the hair color you were born with, and to then (in the EXACT same process) DEPOSIT the hair color you need. 

THAT is amazing.

As soon as hair color is applied to virgin hair, warmth will be released.... because in order to change the color, you must lighten it first, then (again) the new color is deposited INTO the hair.

When lightening hair the first color to leave is BLUE therefore leaving the red & yellow tones to be left and so predominate and annoying.

Now, remember....every persons hair strands are made of the same 3 colors.

RED

YELLOW &

BLUE

Different combinations of those 3 colors create Brown,blonde,black and Red hair ! I know that sounds crazy, but scientifically that is how it works. Which is why Red, Yellow & Blue are called PRIMARY colors. Without those 3 colors our hair would be colorless and it would look like we were from another planet.

The very hardest stage or Level to get past is Level 7 ! 

Ta-Da . . . which is why Brass is the most difficult DURP to get rid of. Its like the Berlin Wall . . . its just so hard to get rid of !!
For all of you who lighten your hair platinum, where does your hair get stuck first and for the longest? The brass/Blorange stage, right? So getting it past that is the Goal.... It is why half of America is walking around with BLORANGE hair.

People think that toners will solve the Blorange problem, when in fact you must - MUST - MUST , lighten the hair one more Level in order to get rid of gold/blorange Stage.

Use this ladder to distinguish between different colors . . . 

At each Step you would see the following colors emerge . . .

DURP is the amount of Natural Pigment remaining in the hair at your target level

Each one of you has a different degree of annoying qualities in your hair and now a days there is a solution to just about any issue any one of you have  - - - all the answers are in this Blog.

So many of you ask me questions about DURP ( you don't call it that - but you DO ask....." How do I GET "THIS" annoying color OUT OF MY HAIR OR "that" ANNOYING color tone ?

So, how to get rid of the DURP that is showing? Now that you know its name lets talk about how you would create your formula, to color your hair and eliminate all of these annoying tones.
Its so much easier than you think

So, lets use the Color Wheel..............( we have them to use for reference if you'd like one.)

Now,

If it is Red..............what you do is..................put your finger on RED on the COLOR
WHEEL...........move it straight ACROSS the wheel, you are then on "GREEN"..........

So what you want in that case is a Green based BOOST & BURST color - most people use H.Ash Brown if you are a Brunette............, or check your Wella color chart.....
If you have brass in your hair and want a good formula to get rid of it.
Just add a Violet based color inot your formula.
A magnificent color in Koleston Perfect is the "MATT" line OR the line that ends in a "2". For example : 7/2 , 6/2, 8/2  . . . what is MATT? It is BLUE/VIOLET Base color.
Blue Violet cancels which colors? Yellow/Brass, & blorange.
So many of you miss that amazing Tonal line. Not one other company even covers a Blue based tonal line.

Which is why there is so much Blorange hair walking around  ! !

If the DURP is Brass, draw your finger across the color wheel to VIOLET......Violet toned hair color and Violet Toned TONERS all cancel out the annoying DURP that no one wants.   
I know it sounds weird, but when you get it right it is amazing.

If your DURP is Orange-yellow........FOLLOW YOUR FINGER ACROSS THE WHEEL............Then use a Violet-Blue Based BOOST & BURST.... (Violet-Pilot is wonderful ) ! ! Or a Violet/ Blue Based Hair color

In hair color all the colors and the color wheel are super useful

The idea is to get your hair color in the MIDDLE of the color wheel.

The idea is to get to the middle or the center of the wheel.

Its important to figure out if its Red....Orange ......Gold........OR  Yellow that bugs you .....it is ALWAYS mainly ONE color that is YOUR   D.U.R.P ......it

stands for:

Dominant

Underlying

Remaining

Pigment..........................and that is whatever the annoying tone that your hair pulls

or which yucky TONE sticks out from your hair that annoys you

95% of people have one

BUT, some people's DURP is 80% annoying and hard to get rid of

approx, 20% of peoples' hair is about 20% annoying and super easy to get rid of

5% of peoples' hair has ZERO DURP..............and that is not very many.

so, the majority of you have an annoying DURP.............

Each one of you has a different degree of annoying qualities in your hair and you ALL HAVE A DIFFERENT WAY OF ELIMINATING THEM! ! !

So many of you ask me questions about DURP ( you don't cal it that - but you DO ask....." How do i GET "THIS ANNOYING COLOR" OUT OF MY HAIR OR "that" ANNOYING COLOR?????????????

Now I provide you all with this free education so yoou won't have those problems.....If I am not explaining it correctly will you PLEA -- PLEASE and EASY-TO-READ BLOG - Education so you can read it yourself and if you did this you would learn to solve all of your problems!

Hair Color, You Can't Live Without it ! ROSE-GOLD, The Hair-Color Everyone Wants

Schwarzkopf, one of our other lines of colors that I have used as long as Wella does have some of the best "permanent" hair color ROSE colors, which is not an easy color to make. I can just picture all the Cosmetic chemists, working 24-7, trying to fill the request from the top Brass............Where is the Rose Gold Hair color and if they are not asking for it then it is my opinion that they should all be fired.

Check this out............. all done by Schwarzkopf Igora Royal colors:

Its not that hard. 

Use Color Theory Boys & Girls   

You already make Red/Violet....................oh............whoops you thought it needed to be Red...........NOPE...... Red-Violet..

I suggest you purchase our Angel Rose BOOST & BURST and then you will have the magic answer to Angel Rose the color that about 90% of all women would like to be right now. Take a teeny-tiny bit of Red-Violet and mix it with WHITE.......

White you say, why white? White Plus Red-Violet EQUALS =
In Koleston Perfect.................9/16 is the perfect WHITE.............then add 2 grams of Red-Violet 6/45 to 60  grams of White 9/16 ....or 9/17..............if you do that internally you can make a rose hair color......I've been waiting a very long time and now I am getting 
pretty fed up with all of you Cosmetic Chemists that follow me.

You think I don't know -- but I do.

I've been doing this longer than you have been doing chemistry! Some of you !


But anyway I found some new photos I was going to use them in an email but I'm tooo damn tired to make one....

So here you go

 BOOST & BURST IDEAS ! ! ! !

Be Creative with BOOST and BURST there are lots of clever things to try..............

Creamy Oil Bleach Kit Now Has a Brand New "Violet/Blue" Tinted. . Lightener Base

VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET-BLUE-VIOLET

Creamy-Oil Bleach Kit

Coloring Hair is the single most TRANS-FORMATIVE action that be done to the body that doesn't involve a scalpel ! That says a lot.

Going Platinum is THE single biggest change in Hair Color that one can accomplish or strive for. 
I would imagine (in a much smaller scale) it must be like the thrill a Heart Surgeon gets when transplanting a new heart and giving life to someone who was dying. 
 To watch someone turn from a wall-flower to a wonder-woman - simply by taking her hair from dull mousy brown to dynamic platinum Blonde is the single most rewarding task a Hair Colorist can accomplish. 

The one and ONLY way that thrill is achieved is by achieving a gorgeous - silky - shiny platinum without an ounce of brass.....and only silky/shiny/ strands. I did it for many years, without the help of OLAPLEX or YAHOO or MAGIC PUTTY ! Just because u have figured out how to purchase Olaplex does not mean you need to be using it.

 The Science of Hair Coloring , understanding the Level System of Hair Coloring and using an OIL BLEACH KIT as your tool will completely solve being a brass-free platinum haired beauty !.....ask any top Colorist if they have problems turning hair platinum. Since Marilyn Monroe, we have had the process wired. How do you think Gwen Stefani? Christina Aguillara, have kept their hair so very platinum for the last 20 years? All the magic potions out there are brand new. Just follow the 100 year old science. 

If there are no problems, why are you trying to fix something that is not broken.
 It can (honestly) turn black hair white (see photo right) -- so if the girl to the right can go from black to white....so can you. 

BUT...and this is a giant "BUT" ...... 4 things MUST be followed:  

   - Use Creamy Oil Bleach as the product to lighten.

   - Proper application techniques incl.+ always perform Strand Test

   - Use PLENTY of product (on initial app.)& #1 : 
   - YOU MUST READ EVERY single POST & DEMO in this Blog that pertains the following words (put words in Search Bar atop of this Blog):

• blonding
• violet/blue creamy oil base
• platinum
• bleach & tone
• oil bleach kit
• creamy oil bleach
• blonde
• brass-free blond
• violet/blue creamy oil bleach
• blond demo
• demo

This will bring up all the posts that are mandatory to read prior to embarking on this process. It truly will give you the education that Hair Stylists receive the first couple years. I didn't hold anything back nor will I. I was going to try to write a book but that won't work with the deterioration of my health....I still wish I could......... so when I am not around there would be somewhere you all could go. Anyone a ghost writer out there?

There is one common issue a couple people have had lately, but it is covered in many places...they just didn't read about it so I want to remind you all once again..... The Creamy Oil Bleach Kits - have 2 applications in them - which means the product one needs to Re-Touch the hair....monthly or every 5-6 weeks is in 1 Kit and the other Kit is for the next month. BUT IF you have dense hair you may need both Kits.... It varies from person to person.............please try to use common sense in these issues.. When beginning the whole process you will need multiple kits - why? Because you have the lengths to do and that isn't accounted for .  The roots & lengths must be taken into account when calculating total product needed - our kits have 2 applications which is made for monthly Re-Touches -- NOT the initial lightening. The length, thickness, porosity, all have to be accounted into that equation and it is different for each and every person.....please be aware of that, do your reading and be fully informed before embarking on going platinum.

   

 The one and only product that should be used for an ALL-OVER platinum look is Creamy Oil Bleach ( & even better than that is our Kit where we have BOTH Violet/Blue tinted DEVELOPER & NOW. . . . !)
 You can not get this kit anywhere else in the USA !  

What this Blog Shows you - is all the knowledge that so many of you were not privy to, and I am speaking of non-professional and Pro's just the same !  1

A couple of the large companies (Redken & Wella) used to make an Oil Bleach Kit a few years back............Redken make the professional model and the quality was good although it was a lot harsher than ours. . .  I used to wear a face mask using it. I am not boasting - I am being frank/honest and trying to give you the education you need to be able to both purchase the Kit (especially the NEW MODEL !!! ) and use it. A large majority of people all want to be platinum at some point in their life most everyone can try it ( but redheads and allergy sensitive people) at LEAST ONCE in your life ! ! ! !

I just made this brand new base which I have tinted a Violet/Blue in order to help with fighting brass and gold.. The Kit has 4 Steps. Comes with 2 applications. But everyone needs to understand one very important point. The Kit is made for your monthly Retouch. Therefore 2 re-touches come in 1 Kit. But............to get all over blonde, you MUST purchase multiple Kits. We are thinking of adding a from "SCRATCH to PLATINUM KIT". Which would meanit would be a kit for lightening the lengths. So stay tune for that. For now you will have to purchase multiple Kits. There is an option for purchasing 4 Kits at a discounted rate.

Toners are a useful part of the hair coloring process - some more than others....but if you are a Level 9 thru 12 Blonde most of you either want them or need them. They CAN be one of the most fun aspects of hair coloring because most are Demi-Permanent which means they wash out (somewhat) but they DO leave a line of Demarcation (which comes from using any Volume Developer.  If you do not want that line and you need a Toner.....then it is time to head over to our BOOST & BURST page of truly Semi-Permanent Hair Color Toners as the Pigment is in either a Shampoo or a Conditioner - using ZERO Developer - - - THUS .........NO Line of Demarcation ! Yahoooey !


WE have just added new Creamy-Oil Bleach Base, that with some of my very cool Knowledge of cosmetics have tinted the Creamy Oil Bleach Lightener a fantastic shade of VIOLET/BLUE. . . so that it is just one more step in the never-ending fight against brass/gold & Blorange when lightening hair!

My Next newest Addition will be a bottle of Creamy Oily Violet/Blue Based Bleach for that FIRST TIME APPLICATION ! 

Thank You for making our 10th Birthday such a smash success! Love You All !

KC

VANISH - Our Awesome Hair Color Remover & Exactly How To USE:CORRECTLY !

Color Removal is an art ....a Science and a MUST for most you who visit our site. Over 50 % of you come to Killerstrands when you have exhausted all other choices. Somehow

GOOGLE ends up sending all people to us after they have tried all the big advertisers and companies that pump money into their advertising budgets. I understand that, we cannot afford to advertise so we just go on the good graces that eventually GOOGLE will send all of you who are desperate to my Blog and Store.

Over 100 times a week I receive "THANKS" for "finding" our website. I sure wish everyone of you would tell 1 or 2 people per day about us.............so that we could help each other out. Just think if you could help 1 or 2 people prevent having to go through the horrific story you have been through, to finally end up here and to see that my #1 goal is to help you learn how to repair your hair and take control over the color YOURSELF.

IF YOU SPEND THE TIME LEARNING HOW TO APPLY HAIR COLOR IN THE CORRECT METHOD . . . . THEN AND ONLY THEN IF IT IS SCREWED UP AT LEAST IT WAS DONE BY YOUR OWN HANDS, that is what sooooooooooo many of you tell me you would rather have happen. No one cares about your hair LIKE YOU DO< > therefore the reading of the rules and laws of hair coloring 101 will be read by you - (mostly) over and over until you completely understand them. UNLIKE the people who go to a cheap - uncaring - uneducated Hair Academy that spends not one day teaching their students HOW TO FORMULATE HAIR COLOR  ! ! ! !

THEY DON'T CARE  - - - - ->> BUT YOU DO . So read this Blog, read it and keep reading it and if that isn't enough spend the money to get a consultation about your hair color.....because once that is done - -you will have the correct directions on how to color your hair ! ! ! 

Readers Submissions: 

Thank you so much for your blog. I am so depressed about my expensive green (humiliating) highlights. I'm traveling to San Antonio, TX and have a salon I hope can fix them. My question, is it okay if they are Paul Mitchell trained colorists? Is there a big difference between Paul Mitchell and Vidal Sassoon trained? Thanks so much. Posting as anonymous because I don't want to hurt my hairdressers feelings, but when she does three clients at once, this is what happens. The color sat on my hair (not under a dryer) while she styled the other lady's hair. I didn't want her hurrying through the other lady's hair, but the 30 minutes she initially said we would wait for the color to sit came and went two times. :-( ???????????????

--> I have colored my hair for several years, and use Medium Golden Brown (I am totally gray). I also then have my hair highlighted afterwards. I changed beauticians, and the new one was using 20 volume to bleach the highlights. I told her I have always used 40, (I&#39;m not a beautician), and ask her why 20. She told me since I double process my hair that she felt using 20 would be easier on my hair. BUT, I also sat under a dryer for over 1 hr waiting for my hair to lighten. My question is this, if I use 40, and it takes shorter time, isn&#39;t that better on my hair than leaving the 20 volume on for over 1 hr? She fried my bangs, and I&#39;ve never had that problem before. I am using Argon Oil, and will keep it up to get my bangs back in order. Would you please respond back, and let me know? Thank you.....B. ??????????????

--> My mom suggested I dye my hair a light golden brown, BIG MISTAKE. It turned out dark brown with brassy roots. So then a hair dresser told me to dye it a light ash blonde which turned it a medium to light brown with orange/brassy roots. So I went and got a box of L&#39;Oreal 11.21 ultra pearl blonde. Question: Should I apply it to my roots first and if so about how long should I leave it on before doing the rest of my hair or should I do it vise/versa? Thank you in advance????????????

--> Can you please explain this...How do I check with 10 volume that all color has been removed after using the shampoo train and Vanish? VANISH or DE-CAP. Or finally use Vanish or DeCap to remove unwanted color in the fastest/best manner (altho is pricey) this is the number 1 way to remove hair color with ZERO damage to hair ! BE SURE TO CHECK WITH 10Volume - IF ALL COLOR has been REMOVED ???????

--> When using either vanish or Malibu CPR, is ALL of the deposit removed such that a 20 volume developer would be able to provide lift afterward, or would there still be some deposit left which prevents anything other than bleach from being able to provide lift? Basically, I'm aware that color won't lift color and wanted to know if a color remover alleviates that situation????

..............and this just a super small sample of the endless requests for help from poor people who have been led down the wrong road and no matter what these people have not been able to fix, have repaired or solve on their hair color problems - - there is not enough time in a day for me to answer them all.

The reason I am writing this is to tell all of you who write into the Blog and very kindly "ask-for-help" ....again, I just don't have the time to answer them all anymore. But all the answers are ALREADY IN MY BLOG ! ! ! 

So, what I want to do is to nicely encourage you all to take the time to read the Blog. I know it sounds boring and no one reads anymore. But, you are missing out in life by NOT READING. You truly are. I have written an entire -easy-to-relate to............... - EASY-TO UNDERSTAND mini Cosmetology course on the Blog. If you don't want to read it all at once -- read it as the topics come up.

For example: everyone seems to have a question about "how you check to see if all the color is out, AFTER YOU HAVE USED VANISH. " ???

The #1 most asked question this month ( there are more)....! ! ! ! 

If you read the directions it tells you to take the 10 Volume Developer ( that comes in THE KIT, but if you have not bought the kit you MUST purchase or find a 1-4 ounce bottle of 10 Volume developer. So..........
Say you have the Shampoo Train complete.................then you spend a couple hours running your hair through the Vanish Treatment - 2 seperate times. {within one box of VANISH there are 2 APPLICATIONS of Vanish for the hair } . 

It is very important that VANISH be applied in the 2 separate applications, if you want to study how hair color molecules work then you will see and understand 'why'...But the hair needs a break in between both applications in order for the VANISH to work to its utmost potential. 

YES, VANISH is Pricey, BUT.....there is ZERO I can do about that, as it is a miraculous process ..........so most things considered miraculous -- simply -- are not cheap. If you don't want to have to pay for something expensive then don't get your hair into predicaments like this. I don't have any miraculous answer for the price of VANISH.....EVERY time I buy it - to sell to you I give the guy 150 miles of SHIT, because I feel the same way. BUT NO ONE has duplicated this process, so its a ONE-OF-A-KIND product.

Do you know 15 years ago when I was doing VANISH treatments in the Salon the price started .......S-T-A-R-T-E-D.........at $500. ......................but most times it would end up in the $700.-$800.00 Range ....the person sits in the Salon for 8 hours 1 day to remopve the color correctly. That is a lot of time to take from 1 Hair Colorist............and up until I brought this product to the INTERNET, no one in public was able to purchase VANISH.  Its a professional product only.....YOU ARE ALL LOOKING AT IT THE COMPLETE WRONG WAY.
You have the directions from someone who has performed thousands of VANISH Color removals over the years and she has taught you every single trick she knows in how to use it correctly....AND
AND.................has even come up with a little trick called the Shampoo Train which eliminates 1 box of VANISH on many people.



But, still.................many many orders leave here with only purchasing 1 box of VANISH....and I shake my head just thinking, ''what a waste''

If you are going to use it.................

• #1: Search the Blog for "VANISH"  and for "Color Removal" and read every single Post on the subject. BE absolutely sure you have at least a 2 ounce bottle of clear 10 Volume developer to apply to the hair after all your REMOVAL Processes...(just our it on the lengths in the front where you can really see the results. .if the hair darkens................. AT ALL............then you must apply another box of VANISH and the 2 treatments AGAIN. 
• Remember this should not be something you do more than once, so you must get over the price, its a 1 time deal - so who cares. If you cannot afford it, then change your plans - as there is no other way of OLD HAIR COLOR REMOVAL, that does NOT damage the hair at all.