In an attempt to de-mystify bleach and lighteners in general, I decided to take on a little project.Projects similar to what I used to run 15-16 years ago when trying to decipher this mess myself. I had a helluva time understanding this, I swear. It was like a foreign language to me I can see after recently cracking open my notebook and reviewing some of my old notes. At least once a month from now on we will have one of these demonstrations, I am shooting for 2. I have a list already of what to tackle.
One of my goals to make the site better for you, the readers, is to save up to
have a more user-friendly site made & designed. With the amount of photos I'd like to use, Blogger does not work with that in mind, so please remember that when viewing this. This site is made for "WORDS" not pics.I will attempt to lay captions so you can understand the process and goal.
Goal:
- To show Killerstranders how bleach works on a LEVEL 7G (gold - toned). In minutes & hours.
- How Toner works
I don't mean "you" I mean many of the heads of hair walking around the planet.
Therefore I wanted to show how slow the process really takes.
Began with 8 swatches of Level 7 G hair from a 12 year old who came to donate her hair to LOCKS OF LOVE, I figured you all would be just as grateful for her contribution (not to worry: I sent in her other braid).
Unfortunately the lighting does not do the color justice, trust me this is a solid Level 7 G hair.
Bleach on the hair for 3 1/2 hours is where the difference is finally made visible. I would never let anyone walk out of the Salon with that either unless, they were headed toward a LEVEL 8 /9 Blond. Which would take a very powerful Toner to tone down the yellow.
NOT all hair can be ALL colors - remember that
See what the 10/89 Pearl Ash toner does to it at 3.1/2 hours? Not much! Its much more than it appears in this photo but not enough for me to be happy.
I like my blonds with ZERO yellow.
See what the 10/89 Pearl Ash toner does to it at 3.1/2 hours? Not much! Its much more than it appears in this photo but not enough for me to be happy.
I like my blonds with ZERO yellow.
H
ere we have the beginning color and mixing up the Bleach and 40 Volume.The FIRST swatch 15 minutes - will always be one of the biggest changes, then the change tapers off.
Bleach and 30 - 45 - 60 minutes the change starts to slow down, and is less
H
ere we have the beginning color and mixing up the Bleach and 40 Volume.The FIRST swatch 15 minutes - will always be one of the biggest changes, then the change tapers off.
Bleach and 30 - 45 - 60 minutes the change starts to slow down, and is less
Bleach on the hair for 3 1/2 hours is where the difference is finally made visible. I would never let anyone walk out of the Salon with that either unless, they were headed toward a LEVEL 8 /9 Blond. Which would take a very powerful Toner to tone down the yellow.
NOT all hair can be ALL colors - remember that
See what the 10/89 Pearl Ash toner does to it at 3.1/2 hours? Not much! Its much more than it appears in this photo but not enough for me to be happy with.
See what the 10/89 Pearl Ash toner does to it at 3.1/2 hours? Not much! Its much more than it appears in this photo but not enough for me to be happy with.
The blank sheet of paper is the next day I decided to run the hair through bleach for 90 more minutes! So 5 hours on Level 7 hair and it honestly could have taken about another 30 minutes to reach that Gwen Stefani blond.
The swatch on the left has no toner the swatch on the right has the 10/89 Toner.
Down lower here with the 6 swatches....and taken in better light...I think you can see the gradient change even better.
That is 15 min. - 45 min - 3 1/2 hours - 5 hours & 5 hours with toner
The last 2 swatches?
Level 7hair with 5 hours and 2 complete batches of bleach and 40 volume......and TONER.
So it takes pretty much an entire day to reach this....and that is on LEVEL 7 hair which is light
Those of you with darker hair keep that in mind.
Any questions?
At the very bottom of this page ...is a SLIDE show of the experiment >with captions, to clarify - check it out
.The FIRST swatch 15 minutes - will always be one of the biggest changes, then the change tapers off.
Bleach and 30 - 45 - 60 minutes the change starts to slow down, and is less
apparent...although it is still working to get to the level that you need it at.
Excellent tutorial! Really helpful...Also very clear & easy to understand
ReplyDeleteWow... Very insightful! I would definately LOVE to see you do this process with level one hair!
ReplyDeleteHope you're doin well and havin fun!
-Vang :D
Hi Wanda,
ReplyDeleteThank You, what I thought would take an hour took a whole day!
I keep thinking about the fact that frosty turned that odd color and worry about the next one for you. I think I should talk to the woman at Garland Drake for you to find out more about it. Certain hair is treated a certain way and won't take color like it should- which I wouldn't want to be a problem for you.
I think that needs to be made CRYSTAL clear with whomever you purchase them from.
Dakota
Vang,
ReplyDeleteDo you have some Level 1 hair you want to donate? That is hard to come by...especially where I live.
Its a great idea and will put it on my list.
Starting with a Level 1 you will see the hair go through the "red" stages which is interesting..
I have about 8 braids I've saved for testing... the darkest is a LEVEL 4.
But thanks.
Dakota
question:
ReplyDeletewhat is magma exactly and how does it work?I saw a bottle of magma in a professional supply store once and i was advised to buy it because it was good in bleaching hair.Is it bleach? is it ting?
Also do you know a product named majirel or majicontrast ? what are these things? Just regular stuff with strange names (like hair color tint and bleach? ) or they work in a different way ?
About magicontrast, i knew a hairstylist once that he wanted to make some red ribbons on my level 5 hair and he used this thing..i cannot really remember the process... but i cannot recall him bleaching my hair-yet the red ribbons had such a nice color.
sorry i am bugging you again with questions.. -i've become a regular- but i am interested in this stuff .
Haircolor has become sort of my hobby :)
I did my hair following your advice and now my friends are asking me for advice about their hair and they are asking me to help them determine what they should do about their hair color..it is so much fun :)
also... on this post you say "..they were headed toward a LEVEL 8 /9 Blond.Which would take a very powerful Toner to tone down the yellow."Like which one?which toner(brand ) is a "very powerfull toner" to you .. because from what you said i understand that color touch is not as powerfull to lower levels of blond..
ReplyDeletethis is very important for me to know.. because i aim to get that level of color-even if now my hair IS lighter.
Waterstiller-
ReplyDeleteMagma is a killer product from Wella, very very expensive, kind of the wave of the future(price needs to come down) It Bleaches and TONES in one step. Best part? It truly works. Its limited in colors - altho they recently added a couple new ones.
I just shot a mini demonstration showing how it works - to be posted.
Not sure on the MAJirel - very european sounding...you should have better luck with people over there.
Powerful toners ...is a loaded statement. Powerful is not really what you desire in haircolor, only in specific areas...
For example I have recommendations in hair (off-the-scalp) bleaches.
1 is the most conditioning but the slowest
1 is Powerful and fast, but the most damaging
1 is mediocre - in both fields....
medium fast, not the worst damaging nor the best..
I use all 3 in different areas - on different people - certain ones I would NEVER use on certain heads of hair...
That's how many variables there are to this art
'Powerful toner' after you have just bleached the hair, you need very strong hair for, about 50% of the hair I would never use it on, on the flip side there is 50% I would
Wella has one other line of color I have hardly talked about called COLOR PERFECT - within that line there are 3 of the most gorgeous toners EVER. They are strong powerful toners tho & are used with 20 Volume-- you actually get another 1/4 - 1/2 LEVEL OF LIFT from - if need be.
Then Clairol makes some great POWERFUL toners, if you have fine hair I would advise against any of these -- for any reason.
Color Touch is not a TURBO Toner, no - but most times you should not need NOR want one
remember that.
hair color should not be a "turbo" project - remember that...
the health of your hair is your first goal
HTH
Killer Chemist
Hi there!
ReplyDeleteI'm a lil confused as to why it took over 3 hours to lift the hair only a couple of levels. My hair's about a level 5 and I get it bleached to about a level 10-11 and it only takes about an hour. Oh and I wanted to share that L'Oreal Professional Luo Color toners for blondes are amazing! I do a mix of PO and PO1 and it counteracts any brassiness and gets my hair to that perfect cool toned baby blonde. Plus they smell amazing. To the person who asked about the majirel, it's one of L'Oreal professionals color lines.
Your tutorials are so helpful! I am still a bit confused about which product and strenght of developer to use when. Wellite or Blondor etc. I am interested in partial bleaching only as in ribbons etc.
ReplyDeleteAlso just want to say that Joico now also have 4 colours that bleach and tone in one (like Magma). Personalyy tried it yesterday on myself, using the VeroUltra Mohogany and Butterscotch in chunky weaves. Came out pretty good!
I`m so pleased to be reading and learning from your blog! As someone who changes the colour of their hair from time to time, I definitely am learning things from you! And will in future use your advice and order from you the next time I decide a change is needed!
ReplyDeletetea
Hi there. This blog is awesome. Just wondering because i really dont get this... is why on level 7 hair do you use 40vol developer. Can you use a 20vol or does that just take longer? I have level 7 hair and in the past i have had hairdressers use 40vol, then other ones have said they can't believe someone used that on my hair.... etc etc... Im not convinced I've yet heard the truth. If your using bleach does it not make any difference?
ReplyDelete