'Tones' In The Level System of Hair Color : Part 2

Tones and understanding them are more important than the Levels...even though that is what they named the entire System. When you applied your Hair Color you aoolied or even that you had done at a big fancy Salon and it was goofed up...what do you complain about? ... not the Level ...you don't normally say "OMG my hair is too dark or too light" (most commonly, I should say) the issue normally is with the "Tone"..... 'its too brassy or too red or too BLORANGE ! ! ha ha or something in one of the many many tonal categories. 
Learning the intricate part of each Brand is so finely tuned you must study each line separately.....Because each one has its own directions and ratio's and tonal categories !

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Now here is a great chart that shows you the under-"TONES" on every Level  when it is virgin hair the category that says:"UNDERTONES of Existing Shade" is the virgin hair category. 
Then it shows every tone that becomes exposed as you lift ( lighten) the hair. Even if you are using a Level 9 on a Level 7, By the way which category would that example put you in? ? ? ?Anyone Know? Guess Below??

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What we will do here today is speak about the Tonal categories in most lines of hair color today. I'm going to use the chart that has the most categories so you will see the wide range these companies can reach to in making their lines of color.

    Tonal Categorys (for fun!)

So here is the Category that is in every line and the one we use the most. NATURAL or NEUTRAL. There are no tones it is just flat and given the number "0" to describe it. This is used to get a neutral tone with no warmth and no coolness - right smack in the middle

  Next is INTENSE NEUTRAL, or NN is how it is described in most lines. This has double neutral pigment, & what do u think we would use that for? To cover stubborn or resistant gray. This tonal category would always be used for that no matter which Level. This would always be used for resistant or hard to cover gray. Always!
Natural Tan or Beige is the most commonly used term, which creates natural looking rich warm tones. Perfect for gray coverage as one must use warm colors when covering gray even if u don't want a warm tone. Its the whole having no tone in the hair thing.
Natural Ash, which mean a little bit of Neutral and a little bit of Ash, with a blue-violet base it produces neutral cool tones and controls unwanted orange.yellow tones. This works well in gray coverage.
A Blend of Ash and Gold equals Beige and equals a classic beige blonde which is one of my favorite tonal looks.
Ash is such an argued about category...I mean every single company uses a different color to use for their Ash base...I mean look at this one they use BLUE! Which to be perfect honest it makes me want to try their color, and you know why>? Blue gets rid of BLORANGE ! and so many blonde's have enough of that tone floating around.Wella use's green, Kaaral uses gray, LANZA uses Violet which in my mind is what it is supposed to be....to get rid of all the brass that flys everywhere!!
Pearl is Violet/Blue which controls all the unwanted orange tones that come when lifting.

VIOLET :Blue & Red make violet therefore when one uses violet based darker colors it comes out in Burgandy colors...when added to lighter levels it kills all that nasty brass we fight when lifting. I love me some violet when blonding.Nothing is better.
Red/Gold base produces luminous warm reds, most people would reffer to this as Copper


Red mahogany is referred to as /Red brown or Auburn I guess....base creates beautiful natural reds


Red : Formulated with a true red base that ensure rich vibrant tones.....this is that bright ass Red I call it.


Intense Red base creates extremely wow red tones....even redder than above!



Red/Orange Base  this produces bold red- copper tones. Now all of these can be use in tiny amounts or 50% of the formula, that's where the experience comes in and strand tests work for...


Copper: orange base, which may sound really weird but if you have some blue you need toned down this is your girl !



Gold/Red Base produces beautiful rich, warm mahogany tones. This is the tone that the actress : Jessica Chastain has ...that is so darn popular right now.

Gold - gold base creates gold tones and if you have blue tones u would use this to tone it down......every tone can be used for both a base and to cancel unwanted Tones out your color.

Intense Gold: Creates radiant brilliant golden tones.



So that is about the biggest tonal chart I have ever seen so I wanted to use this one. Now if you have any questions please ask them now so I know what to continue writing about within the Tonal category. Which I would love to do but I need help with the direction to go in....
I hope this has helped a little....It really is the hardest part of hair coloring.