The idea that light hair color may not be put upon dark hair color and be expected to work, that just is not part of today's technology. I can tell you that I know that is the number 1 thing all Cosmetic Chemists are working on day in and day out. They are trying to make it become a reality for all you Crib Colorists out there...but to date it just has not happened ! !
So even once you have hopped on that shampoo Train and shampooed the living hell out of your hair....followed that with 1 -2 -3 Vanish Treatments...your hair that is underneath is NOT going to be your virgin hair -- I want you to know that. The hair underneath was changed forever that first day you applied whatever color you did by the developer that was mixed with that color.
If necessary join our group talk to fellow members who have gone through similar Hair Color disasters and most have come through the other end very happy and with a smile on their puss ! ! Permanent color has only the capacity to lift VIRGIN hair, not hair AFTER Color is removed.
You possibly may get a little lift, but if its blonde you are looking for you must choose: oil-bleach, creme bleach, or powder lightener for your weapon of choice.
Do not let this discourage you from the process though, because I never hear more complements than I do from this protocol. I hear the following sentence (or some version of it) over and over :
" I finally feel my own hair back again,
it is soft and light, like it used to be. . . ."
KC
Hi KC! Huge fan of your blog!
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry but I didn't understand this: "Permanent color has only the capacity to lift VIRGIN hair, not hair AFTER Color is removed.
You possibly may get a little lift, but if its blonde you are looking for you must choose: oil-bleach, creme bleach, or powder lightener for your weapon of choice."
I understand that the point of the post - I think? - is that the Vanish/shampoo train will not get your hair back to what it was before you dyed it. That color, whatever it was, is gone now. Vanish/shampoo train just takes all the added color out, so therefore, your hair is going to be the color that it was between the time you took the virgin pigment out and the time when it added the new color. Right? So it was a double process, and the Vanish just gets rid of the second part of the doubleprocess?
I just wanted to make sure I get it. Hope I got close!
Also, is this the same if you used a demi-permanent or so-called deposit only color? I am trying to decide whether or not to bother Vanishing/shampoo training out some demi that I put in. It's not awful or anything, just a little too dark.
Thank you for all you do!
It depends on what you do but the theory on developers has finally changed. The chart used to say :
ReplyDelete10 Volume - Lifts 0 levels
20 Volume Lifts 1 level
30 Volume lifts 2-3 Levels
40 Volume lifts 3-4 Levels
--------------------------------- that is now history - it now is this
10 Volume Lifts 1 Level
20 Volume Lifts 2 levels
30 Volume lifts 3 Levels
40 V. lifts 3-4 levels
Which I am much happier with because it is more accurate. Demi-Permanent Color is more a marketing term for those of you that are terrified of the word Permanent as it pertains to hair color....and there are a lot of you.
Just Say you were to use Wella Color Touch demi-Permanent hair color. Even if you choose 6Volume developer it will give you a line of demarcation, because using ANY developer what-so-ever will give you a change in your own virgin color. Which means it has altered your hair color permanently really, do you see what I mean?
....what is wrong with permanent hair color? My hair and almost every single person I have ever put hair color on is thicker, shinier, styles easier, I mean its such a wonderful tool for making a drab head of hair better, it always stuns me that people don't just go running for the color we have in the store.
I color my hair the color it is, as does half of Hollywood, it is required of actors and actresses to have their hair colored especially now because of the high-definition TV's.
I had someone think they would get their virgin hair color back and was so disappointed when she completed the Train and then VANISH. She then tried using High-lift blonde...it did not lift her hair past the brass stage- in this instance, she would need the x.Factor Creme bleach -the single most gentle, moisturizing and wonderful Lightener I have ever found -- if used with LANZA developer which I will custom make Lavender, well you will reach NIRVANA BLONDE!
So I was just trying to point this out as I feel terrible when someone expects something different than is even possible(chemically/scientifically).
Highlift blonde states that it will lift 4-5 levels which is complete and utter Bullshit...it lifts 3 Levels on a lucky day, so she took out her old color and expected the high-lift to lighten 3-4 Levels which it didn't even change it much at all, & she didn't understand why.. She would need lightener of some sort to do that.
Is this clear now?
You know what works perfect for your issue?
A VANISH SOAP CAP!
you mix one cap of bottle A with 1 cap of Bottle B (from Box of VANISH) in a bowl....stir...then add 1 cap-ful of sulfate shampoo (I like PRELL)- mix well. Wet your hair, over the sink, apply the mixture and shampoo scrubbing the hair back and forth like I showed on the shampoo train....Depends on how much color you want to lighten as to how long you do this .... but 3 minutes is minimum and 20 minutes is maximum.
Rinse really well.
Shampoo with Prell once
then shampoo with your sulfate-free shampoo/ for about 5 minutes
rinse well for 3-4 minutes
Poof your hair is lighter.
Demi-Permanent really is just a marketing ploy.
If you want hair that doesn't change yours use semi-permanent hair color.
KC
make sense?
Okay, yes, thanks KC!!! This definitely makes sense now.
ReplyDeleteI think it is wonderful that you tell people how things will actually work. So much of being happy in life is about being realistic in one's expectations. Especially since, you're aren't saying this lady can't have what she wants ... just that it might take a little bit longer and/or involve some extra steps. It is very empowering!
The long and sorted tale is that after 18 yrs of getting my hair professionally colored by the same person it finally got too expensive to keep up the every three week touch ups. My hair dresser refused to tell me the formula or give me any direction and I was left wondering in the Sally Beauty Supply aisle alone. It is just a tad too dark. I went straight 4N, their "house" brand Ion with a 20 developer. I want it a bit lighter and warmer - more 5G. I haven't a clue what my virgin color is/was - I am 50%+ grey and the rest is probably pretty close to 4N. I have been reading your blog - everything I can find on your site about correcting color - but a lot of it is aimed at BIG corrections. I didn't us Black color from a box. I would love for you to do a post (or if you already did, then forgive me I haven't found it yet) for us gals who just need a tweak. I am also thinking that since you mentioned in a previous post that the new Illumina line will lift color treated hair one level this might be a great product to use with lets say the Shampoo train and some Malibu 2000 color corrector to just move that color in the right direction. Your blog is great - thanks for all the info.
ReplyDeleteI am about education here at Killerstrands not about giving people their formula's if you did a few days reading it would be super easy to figure out your own color. Use Wella Koleston Perfect and use 20 Volume developer......... the rest you can find out by reading from this string of Posts:
ReplyDeletehttp://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search?q=level+system
hth
KC