April 26, 2009

Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series

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New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics
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1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.
2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/iStock_000005979465Medium2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.
3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.
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5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.
6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.
7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.
8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.
9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.
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10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.
11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.
12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control. 71434532
13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.
14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.
15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.1574R-26107
16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.
17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.
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18. Discard all mixed product not used.
19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.
20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.
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Killer Chemist

8 comments:

  1. "14. All Virgin hair is some shade of Brown."

    What do you mean?

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  2. Amizon,

    ah .. .. it is such a long long answer. . .
    think about lightening very dark Level 2 hair . . . and the stages it goes through . . lightening it just passes it in and out of browns...lights...darks....
    can anyone help me here....I'm short on time...

    KC

    ReplyDelete
  3. I just mean, for instance, a friend of mine has natural level 8 hair. Her roots grow out as level 8 ash blond hair. The tones are beigey, which some people might call a shade of brown, but it's still blond hair. Did you mean all virgin hair has brown tones? Even that I wouldn't agree with because you occasionally have natural white-blonds and natural bright reds without any brown color in there at all, but that would make more sense at least..

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  4. Why do you lose control as you use a higher developer? Is that because you get more lift out of each one?

    I am guessing that the "every hair color is brown" thing means that every hair color has a brown "base" to it. Like they all have some (red+yellow+blue = brown) in them but that - lets say red hair - has lots of red + lots of yellow + a little blue. So there is still all three primary colors that make brown, but you see so much of the red/yellow color that is looks copper. Maybe. Could be totally off on this one..

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  5. amizon,
    Yes, I meant VIRGIN hair, ooops - sorry.
    All virgin hair is a shade of brown; it contains all 3 primaries.
    Whether hair is DARK BROWN, with black being the darkest (the bluest brown - Levels 1 thru 4), auburn (the most warm browns level 5 thru 7) or blonde (the most yellow or lightest brown, levels 8-10), the color is an uneven combination of the 3 primary colors
    (uneven amounts of yellow + red + blue = brown)
    In Lab tests they have broken down melanin molecules and in all types of VIRGIN HAIR, unequal amounts of yellow,red and blue are found in each. . . and of course, that equals brown.
    Comprende?
    Primary Colors when mixed in uneven amounts - - equal brown.
    hth
    KC

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  6. Don't give up! I love your blog! Has anyone mentioned you can save your pages as a "Web Archive, single file (*.mht)"? Just pull up your page on the internet and go to "save as". Don't know if that will help but at least you would have a complete record saved of your work in case you loose it again. This back up would make it much easier to redo if you had to. Take care, DesertHair

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  7. DH,
    I have this great system - I use Live Writer to compose the posts, you can add photos,edit, do everything you want. . . then click one button and it all gets published. Its quite the miracle system, i love it.
    BUT,
    if you have 2 posts with the same "title" and have a PART 1 and Part 2 ...it cannot distinguish between the 2 and eliminates one.

    Which just seems asinine to me

    sorry . . .
    had a rough week
    KC

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  8. awww KC i have learned so much from your blog! i feel like your writing a bible for hair write before our eyes.:)
    now if someone could help me answer these questions just out of curiousity.
    i was wondering if virgin hair is lightened naturally by the sun..instead of dye/bleach ..does blue leave first also leaving you with brassy hair..or does it lighten perfectly? also how come your hair when you are younger lightens so much more beautifully in the sun then when you are older.
    thank KC

    kate.

    ReplyDelete

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