September 28, 2007

BIONIC BLOND -- Toner Application


Remember the Process is called a Bleach & Tone and has been called that since the 50's!  Being as our previous Post was on fighting Brass, if you could not or did not get all the brass out then here we have this Post on How to APPLY a Toner for you!

 Bleach & Tone Process

Application of Toner



Shopping List
  • Towels
  • Tail Comb
  • Latex Gloves (small)
  • Crocodile.clips heavy-duty hair-clips
  • Crib Colorist Cap
  • Plastic/Glass Bowl
  • Shampoo SLS-free
  • Peroxide - 10-20 Volume
  • After/Treatment Rinse {Intensive}
  • Cotton
  • Toner
  • Protective Cream
  • Tint Brush
  • Timer
Pre-lighten the hair to the "frozen butter" stage...ever seen frozen butter? Helluva lot different than room temp. butter...its very pale - frosty yellow/white, check your freezer....so you implant that color in the cells of your brain. 
That is the key to getting hair light enough, YET not too light, so as to do irreparable damage.That is one of the trickiest yet most crucial parts to nailing the proper bleached blond. Here's a couple photos. . . .to show you it is not white. 




Preparation
  1. Prelighten to FROZEN BUTTER.
  2. Shampoo hair super lightly ( most likely this is already done), after-treatment conditioner, rinse, and towel-dry.
  3. Select the desired Toner Shade - check manufacturer's directions as to whether the hair is better dry or wet ?...they are ALL different.
  4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears.
  5. Perform a strand test, for allergies. ( I have to suggest this, its up to you)
  6. Toners are both --- sometimes non-oxidative (which means it does not use Developer - its used straight out of bottle or tube), some times oxidative, usually 10 -15 Volume is for Toners in the rare case. 20 volume. NO OTHER VOLUME. I can see a lot of you do not quite understand VOLUME'S. Remember 10 Volume - deposits color only. There is no lift ( lightening). 15 Volume is deposit only. The idea here is to deposit a very light OPAQUE ( think of Nylons or Opaque pantyhose in this case) "Tone" on top of the lightened hair. An Ice beige, a Platinum, Rosy beige, there are a zillion colors like this. If you cannot figure this out.... you cannot go wrong by using a Platinum toner. Platinum would be Gwen Stefani's hair, everyone loves Platinum.
Procedure





  1. Part the hair into 4 equal sections, using a tail comb or tint brush...you must be VERY gentle to the scalp it will be very tender (on some), avoid scratching it.


  2. Mix the Toner according to manufacturer's directions.



to be continued....
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6 comments:

  1. Dakota,
    I got the Phantom in the mail today - I was so excited!! Is there a specific time you'd like me to call? Or would you like me to email you my number and you can call when you're available? (I don't work right now, just stay home with baby.) Also, the instructions on the Wella Toner are VERY vague.. I can't figure out if it requires your hair to be wet or dry when it is applied, since it doesn't mention it anywhere. A little guidance on this product?
    Thanks and talk to you soon,
    Ash

    ReplyDelete
  2. ash
    which toner do you have? you don't have the COLOR TOUCH series do you? Orange box?
    you're lucky I went to order & re-stock my PHANTOM selection....its discontinued.....they got sued by some idiot....you cannot believe my SHOCK, you got the last box !.........I will NEVER EVER understand why that does not happen to those damn companies that make the hair color kits --THEY deserve it, not this product & Schwartzkopf they make high quality products...I hate corporate America, most of the time...the person that used it, used it all wrong....
    .ran home to start making calls to find out who makes a comparable one.....I'm having a couple sent to me who 'claim' to be the same....so enjoy.

    Call me ....Probably tomorrow ( Tuesday) when I get back...early evening - 7:00-7:30....but first let me research which toner you have... I have over 50 here.....but don't know them all by heart....I read the box...I always put toners on 1/2 dry hair...with perfect results.

    Open the box up and review the directions a couple times before you call -- so you're familiar with the process >> make 3 X 5 cards if you're that type >> Its a completely 'different' procedure than anything you've ever done... {its taped because it was last box -- decided to Xerox -- so I'd have it to compare to how 'I' do it, I haven't read their directions in years}... Dakota
    p.s. if i.. for some weird reason.. am a little late, leave your number..I'll call back as soon as I get home...{tho, should be home}D

    ReplyDelete
  3. Sweet deal, I'll call you tomorrow evening. Oh, and I have the Color Charm toner - yellow/white box. I hate that they've been discontinued, but I guess I'm lucky I decided to do my hair now!!
    Ash

    ReplyDelete
  4. Ashleigh,
    Hows things? Did you get stuff figured out? If you want , you can give me a call later today after 4:00.....if you need any help with the blonding...
    Sorry had some pretty bad health issues....
    Dakota

    ReplyDelete
  5. Dakota,
    Yes! I got it figured out, however, some of the black was tricky to get out. I will email you before and after pics soon!!!

    Ashleigh

    p.s. since my hair is naturally about a Level 5/6, my brows are really dark - like a level 4 or darker. What is your suggestion considering my new blond haircolor?

    ReplyDelete
  6. 2 ways to go.......
    my best suggestion is to look at Killer Pics and check out all the blondes....look at their eyebrows........see which way you like....on some people I LOVE the dark eyebrow...light hair look....on others i only like the eyebrows lightened..bu this must be done the EXACT proper way, which I thought i posted....did i not? i will post that method tomorrow...i promised a couple people i would...

    how does the hair look?

    yes, i would suggest NEVER EVER using black again.........EVER!!

    ReplyDelete

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