June 26, 2015

"Slices" are a different technique Than "Highlights" they Give a Different Result



This is an over-exaggerated Demo of "Slices" ( they are wider than they normally are) in order to show you the difference in how they lay and how the the look of them is completely different than Highlights.

I don't know if you can see it as well as I can but believe me they are completely different and when done thinly - well : "J. Anniston hair- here you come

6 foils . . . 2 Tubes of Color and some bleach


I even like the idea of just applying some  to one side.
That may seem a bit bizarre to some of you but if you
mix the partings up you can come up with many different looks
This is one method of applying Ribbons,
 there are a couple others . . .as well











I suppose some of you in remote parts of the country, could ask your hairstylist to apply this "to" you if you don't want to do it to yourself.

Which is hard even for me....although I have very weak arms, if you have strong arms you can do this. 



What is the main difference you see in RIBBONS and HIGHLIGHTS ?


Advantages?

The way the color lays

You can do any combo and don't have the problems of overlapping nearly as much as highlights.


I'm going to try to do another Demo, with thinner ones its just very difficult to pick up on a computer monitor so that is why you are seeing these I hope you can use your imagination to  picture if they were thinner with a softer blend of colors.

how beautiful it would come out !








 This photo on the bottom right really shows the result the best  and how it looks when they lay down..... 

Slices as opposed to Highlights are the way to go if you want a look with multiple colors like a child's hair.

KC

June 17, 2015

How To Formulate Hair Color on Virgin Hair.



Learning to formulate hair color can be a tricky slippery slope......there are so many 'exceptions to the rule'.......that its hard to remember any rules exist and if they do, why do we have them because of all the exceptions !
Plus it can be many weeks before a woman with VIRGIN hair walks through a Salon door in today's world, because even if they haven't experienced a Salon, nearly every person on earth has bought at least 1 box of hair color in their life time it seems. So you learn those rules but rarely use them because no one with virgin hair color ever sits in the chairs of stylists.

What I do want to do with this post is show you how you would formulate hair color on a person with virgin hair = for those of you out there that do have it and are considering coloring your hair for the first time. Let me tell you that if you have virgin hair........start off with the color we carry in our store on the best quality and will give you the best results you can get. Read this Blog get very prepared by being as educated as you can and I bet you will have wonderful results. I kno its scary, but thousands of people have learned right here the entire process and their results have been awesome.

look @ formulating from a Level 4B - VIRGIN COLOR
to a ..................................... Level 7N 






                                                                  LEVEL 7






                                            Level 4


 Lets just imagine you are a level 4 brown..... and want to be a level 7....blond.
The difference between the level you are at... and the level you want hypothetically be is 3 levels.....
if you use a level 7 color will you achieve the desired result?

You can really only learn to formulate the way we learned in Academy fr when you are working on VIRGIN hair. Which , of course means, NON-COLORED, in-touched color-wise - hair color. Which I have discovered that is nearly impossible to find any longer! 

Many Stylists and Crib colorists think that if they are a virgin Level 4 and want to end up as a Level 7, that they would use a Level 7 to get there which is not the case AT ALL.
You must use a color that accounts for the difference between your natural level and the level you want to be... 

Desired Level..............  7
Virgin Level................ - 4 
difference  =..................3

Add Desired Level........7 
                              +
Difference.....................3 
result :choose a level 10


A level 10 color is the correct choice....however using as level 10 which contains only pale yellow dyes, will not keep the orange in a level 7 from showing through. I would use a Level 10 Neutral/Ash/Matt.....in the line I use I have dozens of tones.....and that's why i like it.
You could use Wella Illumina in 10/69 and achieve everything you need to in combating the brass and golds

Lots of you are writing me and I am very pleased with how well some of you are absorbing the material......and asking me "proper" questions.
I guess this was a good idea.
Some are quoting the LEVELS like an old Pro - very refreshing to hear....know that it inspires me and moves me that you are interested enough to try to learn this - - - its not easy -- I take that back.....it IS EASY; its just very 'foreign' to most......and has never been done out in "public" before.
so Thank you...
I hope to keep going, get better and for sure > more organized.
KC

June 14, 2015

My Hair Color is Not Working, I have Tried Many Stylists & Still I Am So Disappointed, Please, What Do I do?

This week has been so odd, I am telling you I have had this same exact question asked of me by many-many people - its so weird -- its this EXACT - word for word -- same QUESTION ! ! ! 
 To be honest I thought I have addressed this question many times, but this tells me I have not addressed it clearly enough. So, I am going to give you my exact answer to all OF YOU THAT SEEM TO BE IN THIS PREDICAMENT....because it pertains to soooooo many of you. This is what I have advised many before you and they all have been please with the suggestion.

Sassoon has a very brilliant and logical way of looking at hair color. They don't believe in highlights on top of highlights.......it is just a cheap and damaging way of coloring the hair. If you want to be blonde, that's fine, but lets do 1 color blonde and make it with Zero brass and do it in a healthy and beautiful way . 

They believe in Blonde like this :





or Platinum blonde - then you can play with the Crazy Colors and BOOST & BURST  Till your hearts content.  ! ! !






I am going to be dead honest here and tell you, that Stylists do the whole highlight thing because that way they can charge you their top price. I call ''Bullshit'' on that once and for all.

 Its lazy and its not thinking about you and your hair ...its thinking about them and their pocketbook. If they gave you color like I suggest......... you would become a devoted client and send all of your friends to them and then they wouldn't have to put "money" before "beauty & health & the CLIENT". Which is ridiculous. 

I want to Post a copy of a couple Letters that have bits and pieces from about 6 emails I have received with some version of the same question that you see in the Title of this Post, and then my answer to it :

Dear KC,
I have read bits and pieces of your Blog..... but I just cannot figure out what to do. Can you please try to help me or at least point me in the right direction.

I have always been a natural blonde.  As I am getting older, my base color has become darker, but it is still blonde (not brown).  I call it "mousy" probably what people refer to as "dirty blonde".  I am getting some gray, maybe 5% - 10%.    I highlight my hair.  I'd like to cover the gray, but that does not seem to work well with highlights. I want the color consistent.  I do not want blonde on top and dark underneath.

I have become so disappointed in my hair color.  Everyone wants to make the base or the low-lights very dark.  With the blond highlights, it makes my hair appear oily, even when it is clean and shiny.  I also get a striped or "muddy" look.  I feel like I have tiger stripes and there are weeks it even looks gray.

I want my hair color to look natural.  I don't want to have to deal with grow-out within weeks of service it doesn't seem like I should have to when my gray is not very much.  The mousy color drains my complexion.  My current highlights are very warm.  It looked great for about two weeks.  Now, it makes the mousy base look gray, even though it is not!  The gold highlights and the mousy base just don't work together.

What is the answer?  Should I skip highlights?  Should I try to get back to my natural color and just learn to live with it?  If so, how do I do it?  Is there a way to highlight that can brighten my hair color and help my complexion without the muddy look and the tiger stripes?

I am lucky enough not to have a lot of gray, but this hair color is still making me look and feel old!  I need some advice. If you have any stylist recommendations, I am ready for a change.

BTW, I have always gone to a high-end salon and an experienced stylist.  I have tried new stylists and have even PAID for a consultation first.  I have communicated what I want and why, but still end up with questionable results.   


I spend too much money on my hair to not be looking good!  I welcome your advice and suggestions.
 

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _  _

To everyone with this problem or if you feel any of these many different feelings going on in this letter....
PLEASE PLEASE..............I ask you to take control of your hair back to yourself. You have given control of your hair over to other people and that is not how it should work. Its your hair and you are spending money asking other people to color it FOR YOU!!! 
NOT FOR THEM
Which is what they are doing . They are choosing the selection on the menu of color services that has the highest price tag. Look at the list in the Salon if you don't believe me. Look at their web site. 
They are not listening to you. 
If you went to a restaurant and ordered a Salad and they gave you Filet Mignon Steak, would you keep it? Wouldn't you put up a fuss and get what you ordered>? Well, to me, that is exactly what is happening here. They chose the most expensive choice on the menu to give and charge you for, but that isn't what you wanted to begin with. You wanted a pretty- healthy- lower priced Salad and you got and ate & paid for a Filet Mignon Steak. You would never put up with that at a restaurant and I'm sure you are all paying way more for your hair than a salad and a steak is. 
TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR HAIR BACK.
I'm serious, first you must start thinking about how these Stylists or the Boxed Color or the color you bought at Sallys all destroyed your hair....in the first place. THAT is a horrible - horrible Act. Most of you treasure your hair unlike any other body part you have......WE LOVE OUR HAIR and when our hair is cut & colored perfectly --- THAT CAN CHANGE OUR ATTITUDE, OUR HAPPINESS and our ENTIRE WEEK, if it is done how we like it.
To me...........
THAT is a very P-O-W-E-R-F-U-L item
don't you agree?
 It should be treasured and cherished and cared for in the manner to which it deserves. 

So, you must take control back of your hair and get it out of their hands. I ask you to please take a weekend and read my Blog - cover to cover. You will understand so much more if you do this. 5000 people every day do, so I think you should to!  I always get Thank you's when people finish doing that one thing.
Secondly, you must change the ideas in your head of words you used to hear like highlights and chunks and lowlights.... NO ONE does those anymore...........so get rid of that idea.
 In 2008 I wrote a Post entitled
HIGHLIGHTS ARE HISTORY 

2 years later guess who copied me??  ( see below)

 Vogue magazine !
below ( Google can find anything for you now-a-days) The funny part is ''Google'' the term "highlights are history"....Killerstrands pops up in about 10 cases !!!

I wrote it way back then because I was trying to teach the Sassoon way of coming up with hair color choices for women and men. It really is brilliant, I've never seen a head of hair come out of Sassoon that wasn't an absolute WORK OF ART. Sassoon educated Stylists are all over this world. I would say 95-98% of all Sassoon graduated Stylists are the absolute best in the business.....so I wanted to teach all of my readers their concepts....



 
So here we are in 2015 and people are still getting highlights.
Its just something we don't do anymore so you have to quit.
If you can't find someone to do your hair  the way you want - you can now learn here. Its really not that hard. All the information and demo's are here on this 9 year old Blog to Help you............. that is why I wrote this....to HELP PEOPLE get their hair straightened out. I live in L.A. I though everyone had access to great hair color....Not until I began this Blog and received so many emails from people looking for help did I decide to "open up my Vault of Knowledge " and teach everything to all of you. A lot of it is in the Blog, which is why I want you all to read it!

If you don't want to do one of the blondes above then ....
My #1 and favorite suggestion is for you to go back to a Beautiful and (my favorite color in the world) Level 6 Ash/Neutral Brown...........

Nothing is more beautiful......
So many of you have Level 6 Brown.....
I"m telling you either of the blondes above or this color
Although this is My #1 suggestion for all of you........ to go back to a level 6 Brown



 Yes, this one has a few blonde ombre ribbons, which if you want to lighten a little bit in the summer time this is what you can do then cover them up in the winter...

Its easy to do to oneself or you can find a stylist to do those in your area.....







Aren't they beautiful....they are all California models, so yes they are beautiful but I wanted to show you the color of their hair and to show you that so many of you have this color underneath....


Think about it..........consider it........

Its a beautiful alternative I promise

But for ABSOLUTELY positive ................never eat a steak when you ordered a Salad again! ! ! ! !

Stick up for yourself, do not go to someone who won't listen to you.... I have taught you how to find a good stylist within the Blog....
I don't want to review every single Post here....which is why I ask you to please--- READ THE WHOLE BLOG, it will help you gain back control of your own hair ! ! 

Whether you do it yourself or you find a decent and well trained Stylists who will listen to what you want.

I promise that through this Blog I have taught many people who were terrified of coloring their own hair and when done they have all said, " Well, that wasn't that hard". 

So There you have it.

KC

June 10, 2015

How Hair Turns Blond - and Its Not What You Think ! !

One of the most common problems I get asked is . . .
 
"how can I get this lousy hair color out of my hair and just simply get back to something beautiful and blond?"


Seems so easy to many of you, when in fact it will be the single hardest thing you ever do to your hair. That one weak moment in the drug store, that reach for that darn 'Color-in-a-box' was where it began that treacherous slide down the hill into the pit of "no-return". You knew better . . .you knew, but you did it anyway and now you are paying.
I have written many a Post about this subject, but I continue to get numerous people every week with the same sad song, so I am trying a different approach with this post. I'm hoping if I explain why and how hair turns blond, it will make some of you see why it isn't so simple to come BACK from. Although, I will give many of you credit, many will tell me that once you discovered KILLER STRANDS, started reading and studying, you wished you would have found me just one week earlier - so that you prevented the whopping mistake. Here's hoping this explanation opens some eyes, if you have any questions at all ...you know where the comments section is. . . Mahalo



June 4, 2015

How to Apply the Oil Bleach Kit.....A Bleach Re-touch DEMO - Part 1

Application of Oil Bleach 

So this is photos of an Oil Bleach Re-Touch..


 When trying to get past the "yellow stage, you must always apply a 2nd or 3rd or 4th....depends on how dark you are, the goal is to get past the "yellow" stage. The problem comes from people only bleaching once then trying to solve the problem with a Toner.
Its TOO BIG of a problem to solve with a Toner - period. 

It usually needs another bleaching....using the oil bleach protects the hair's health.You can always- ALWAYS email me a photo of your hair color and just ask the question "SHOULD I APPLY ONE MORE TIME?" put that in the subject line and I will always answer your question if you are nervous. YOU MUST be using our OIL BLEACH KIT, that is the only product that I use and I know exactly how it works.

Remember - this does not mean everyone should run out and do this, you must always read all my Posts and follow the Crib Colorist rules.
 if you begin with very damaged hair 
this
PROCESS
IS
NOT
FOR
YOU ! ! ! 

 




















 I am throwing this photo in here in a little out of context - - -  but I wanted you to see the difference in bleachings... See the hair its a Level 6 brown - see the gold that is after one bleaching.... see the white ???- - 
That is after 2 bleachings...
People stop after 1 bleaching and can't figure out why their hair isn't white..............


This series of photos is demonstrating the 2nd Bleaching (almost always necessary) I'm only applying it on the one side to Molly so you can see the difference between what is normally done at home and what we do at the Salon . (Everyone at home would only apply bleach once - hair is stronger than you think !)

 
This is showing the 2nd bleaching on the left side > see the 1 inch left alone after the 1st bleaching??





http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kits-on-the-scalp-applicationUsing the 1/8" partings and going up the one side and quickly going up the second side...trying to get the back finished so you can move to the front is very helpful. This is where you will benefit from experience. 
Using a comb after each application of bleach will work it into the hair, all strands need to be saturated.






The usual method for a virgin bleach is applying it 1 inch OFF THE SCALP...why? Because the lengths of the hair lift (lighten) so much slower than the roots,



Here the 2nd side has all the bleach applied - although not on roots yet
for many reasons. #1 being pre-existing artificial pigment (old hair color), its rare to find many people that don't have some color in their hair. But lets just say you are a true virgin, still you would be applying the first application the same. 1 inch off the scalp and if the ends are super porous then off the ends as well.





On this left front piece I plan on demonstrating "OVERLAPPING" to many of you that have requested it, therefore am bleaching the lengths a couple times to use for this

Bleaching is not an easy project period. I love doing it and after you do it a few times its not near as complicated as this probably sounds, it really isn't - so do not get discouraged. My goal is to get America bleaching their hair like Stefani, and Aguillera...so they aren't the only ones with Killer Platinum hair !!

For the Perfect Platinum
The absolute best way to have this done successfully and evenly is to bleach your "new growth" roots every 21-24 days...that is exactly what Gwen, Christina, Pink, and any other dynamite platinum headed hottie does. I realize that 'sounds' difficult...it really isn't, it ends up easier because once you get the "underlying pigment" out of the lengths( yellows-oranges-golds) all you are dealing with is the 1/4" of new growth, so you don't have to Tone constantly. The hair has all traces of yellows/golds knocked out. When you want you can apply toners, for different looks and fun. I have over 100 Toners for blondes and I make-up about 15 from scratch. Once I learned Toners were exactly like watercolors - a passion of mine, I began mixing and playing and never stopped. Now I really have given away one of many "HAIR SECRETS" -- kept quiet for many decades!

There is no more meticulous application than that for scalp bleach. The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning and hair that doesn't break and looks luxurious. It is so possible for all of you, I swear its just not that hard of a project, you will see.


Taking fine sections is important - make sure they are thin enough to see through is a good rule of thumb. With retouches, you want to be careful of overlapping which I will show you in upcoming photo and posts. You must go far enough but not too far, which I promise we will cover thoroughly, I have had many requests on this subject.



You have to overlap a certain amount because of that dreaded LINE OF DEMARCATION, which can be difficult when bleaching. I find many occasions where I am mixing up a new batch of bleach & 40 volume to re-apply to that line, to get rid of it, so important. At times you will have to use your fingers (gloves on) to work the bleach into the that line or any other stubborn area of color that won't come out. Have you ever had to work in detergent to get out a stubborn stain in a white t-shirt? Same thing. Any stubborn areas --> apply a brand new mixed up batch of bleach and 40V, working it through, don't leave it on too long, rinse right away and dry to see how it looks. You may have to do it again until you learn what it looks like when it is completely out. I've been doing these for 15 years, of course it takes me once...but it sure didn't at the beginning.

Here's Molly's head taken with a FLASH, these 2 don't do her hair justice ...The left side has been bleached twice and I am hoping in one of these 4 photos in your computer you will be able to see the difference.
If you are lifting past yellow, which most of you will be...be patient. Gold is always the toughest pigment to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took to bring the natural base to yellow. Patience -- patience, leave the bleach on for 60-70 minutes, then re-apply
Here is the chart of how the color LEAVES the hair strand....starting at level 1... as the bleach works it takes out the UNDERLYING PIGMENT according to this chart. As the Red-Brown is elminated...then you will see the Red, then as that is elminated, then you see the Red-Orange...and so on. According to the above paragraph "GOLD" is the toughest to get out, which you will learn is the truth....Level 7 thru Level 9 are the slowest to come out



I've included 2 different lightings of the back of Molly's head for you, both suck, hopefully you'll get the idea,they are of the same thing in the same day in the same light none of them looked like it did to the naked eye, the left side has been bleached 1 full hour longer than the right...can you see it? Maybe on your computer (hopefully)
These are after the Shampoo and the 2nd bleaching on the left side (back and front)



Rinsing after a bleach: Always use cool water (or lukewarm- just NOT hot) Bleach usually creates its own heat, alot has to do with each persons chemical make-up as to how warm each one of you gets. RINSE -- RINSE -- RINSE with cool water, it takes a while...NO SHAMPOO at this point. Just rinse with clear water until all of the product is out of the hair. As soon as you are sure the bleach is out, then give it a very light shampoo with a very mild shampoo, the scalp will be sensitive - be gentle. Plus, you have to apply again (roots) so be gentle. A light shampoo consists of lightly rubbing the lather into the hair for 20 seconds and rinsing it out MOST OF THE TIME.



One of the many secrets I apply in bleachings, came from my days as a cosmetic chemist. When I absorbed from my Chemist mentor that bleach truly does its main work in the first 55-65 minutes, after that it is minimal, I changed my technique. Most top stylists will leave that first application of bleach on for 2-3-4 hours (think Asian Hair or previously colored hair). Me...I take it off at 55 minutes...remix a new application and re-apply. Therefore a turbo boost version of bleach is applied which knocks out more of that annoying underlying pigment. This is what you do when you are doing Couture hair ...hair on models, fashion shows, Hair shows... yes we turn Level 1 Hair to Level 12, something I just told you wasn't a great idea.......why?



To show that "we Can !!!"....its an art, it is not very practical and is very expensive ( unless you are doing it to yourself !)





That "I Can" get every single bit of underlying pigment out of the Asian head of hair is an amazing accomplishment. Going to Sassoon that was the very first bleaching I did. An Asian advertising student from Pepperdine ( amazing I can remember that). My Instructor had me do a 2" Frame of White Hair around her entire head along her hairline, plus tint the black part a Midnight-Violet-Black....it was an incredible feeling accomplishing that. That is when I decided this was going to be a very cool ride





Remember > to do some of these radical procedures the hair MUST....I repeat MUST, be in good condition please don't apply Bleach to hair that is in poor condition, if you do, you will be very sorry. What I will be more than happy to do for Killerstranders> if you have any questions about the condition of your hair, have 3-4 photos of your hair, 2 up-close - & email them to me. Many people have done that, it doesn't bother me, I actually feel better knowing I've seen your hair. The part of this site that is frustrating for me? Not being able to touch or feel or "see" the hair of all the people asking questions and asking for advice. The first thing I do when meeting a new client is put my hands through their hair, it tells me so very much.


NO touch...NO Feel, and NO SIGHT ????


Wow, this is a whole new talent in hair styling. Virtual Hair Styling - I guess. Once the photos started coming I felt a little better, so please...if you can, they are more than welcome.


I remember hair with names, just names with NO HAIR for me are difficult 

Keep going for PART 2 ....these posts are from January 2008, I just am bringing them forward so everyone can find them !

GL


KC

Bleaching Hair Platinum DEMO - Part 2 - The Results !

  How to Achieve Platinum Hair Platinum-ized

Step 2 of the OIL BLEACH DEMO.............


 
Decided to bleach the left side of the head to "Stefani-blond", leave the right side, bleached just once and not toned as most home jobs are done, so the difference was apparent. It is completely normal to have some shedding with a bleaching, do not panic, see the comb........

don't panic - completely normal !





Left side was bleached twice with the Killerstrands Oil Bleach Kit ...some times you will need 3 or even 4 applications.

The thing about Bleach is........all its power comes in the first 50-60 minutes, then it slows down to a snail's pace, so for speed you are better off taking the first application OFF.
.......washing 
APPLYING INTENSIVE FOR 20 MINUTES................
drying 
and applying an entirely NEW BATCH OF BLEACH !!! Than to leave that first batch on for a longer period of time. IO promise you I have timed this thing a zillion times. There were weeks where I was doing 100 of these a week, I'm not kidding- remember I did hair in Malibu !  1997-2007..........a long time ago !

Depending on how dark the hair is........is how you determine the Volume of developer it comes with 20volume because most people buy the Kit for their retouches....
If you are starting from scratch you may request a different volume. We carry purple tinted developer in 20 volume and 40 volume
 ( its not a real head remember)



Prepare for the TONER portion of the process. I have NEVER bleached a head of hair and not toned it.



This shows the COLOUR TOUCH CHART
I decided to use LEVEL 10 > LIGHTEST VIOLET BLONDE ( the swatch on the top <> far LEFT) , which would have the most purple to counter the yellow left in the hair.
This being a mannequin head,
they tint it to get it the color it is, so it is not totally natural Color......although it is human hair.





Application of the Toner.......>



This is the right side of the hair, with only ONE(1) bleaching, which of course you cannot really tell by this lighting.


Here you can tell better I think. The left has been bleached twice and toned with VIOLET BLONDE for 25 minutes. I will attempt some better photos tomorrow in the sunlight.


Can you tell ? See how nice the beautifully Toned hair is? 
I hope so.

 
Molly's beige/white Colour is seen beautifully on the left side only















Good Golly Miss Molly You Are Platinum

too be honest if this was a person after the first month we may bleach her a 3rd time to get her that  pure white. 

Her hair's in great health I even put THRIVEN on these damn dollheads to keep up the condition of their 100% human hair!!!!!

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