April 29, 2015

Rose-Gold Blond Formula's + Tricks + Upkeep

I have had a number of requests for formula's and tricks to achieving the Rose-gold Blond look


 Normally I would tell you to go to a qualified Colorist but this isn't really that tough. If the
 Killerstrands Angel-Rose-Angel BURST Conditioner
directions confuse you - head for the Colorist...but I think if read and re-read my instructions you will find it truly is pretty simple. Before I write on a topic... I will ask my staff if they understand the Post, before I teach it to you...to see how they take it. Its funny but all of them aren't into doing their hair AT ALL! But, they understood this so I am going to give you the education. I know lots of you who would probably love to work here.


Remember I learned hair color when I was old, my first career was as a Stunt.woman in Hollywood..........don't ask me why I made the transition......it was not my choice - believe me. Lets just say I had one angry ex-husband who was a big-shot movie director and he was not happy when I informed him I no longer wanted to be married to a person who chose his his drug/alcohol use above his family . That didn't hit his male ego button very well so he turned on me....... blackballed me in the industry......he told everyone that if they hired me, they would never work for him again. He controlled a lot in that world. But anyway that's enough about that...

What I want you to learn is that if I can learn all of this at an older age... every single one of you can. I am trying to empower everyone of you with the knowledge and instructions on either coloring your hair yourself.............or doing touch-ups for when you can't get in to see your Colorist. There are many of you who live in remote areas and have ZERO access to a decent colorist and are forced to learn to do your own hair. There are many that just can...not or don't want to pay hundreds of dollars every month to do hair you can now learn to do on the Internet.
So when I say read and re-read............the instructions I give, if you don't understand it the first time I say it - then re-read it and then re-read it the next day.......... I say that because that is how I learned. This all was so foreign to me, but just doing some extra reading truly helped me learn a lot of concepts that were completely foreign to anything I had ever done in my life!

So, the trick to becoming rose-blond, is really much easier than one would think. That is because what you do is begin with blonde hair and then put a rose-blond toner over the hair. You can also put some darker rose-gold pieces in the hair, but for the sake of this post lets just go with 2 formula's for achieving rose gold hair and the use of BOOST & BURST for both upkeep and creating the look. You can create Katy Perry's look at home by starting with blond hair and we have been going over the many zillions of ways there are to achieve blonde hair in the posts over the last couple of weeks.  Then applying BURST in Angel-Rose-Angel on just the first 3 inches of the hair in kind of an up & down method... So that is easy and should be solved.

Then you can begin with Blond hair and it can be a Level 8 like Sienna is here


The following look can be achieved by 2 methods of products we carry
You can apply Schwarzkopf in the Candy Pink Pastel 9.5-89 






Plus 6, 10 or 13Volume 
I would suggest using 6Volume the first time.
Just divide hair in Quarters, apply in tiny sections of the hair
it should like this..... 



Now is you were to want a look like this, you would just foil some pieces or ribbons around previously lightened hair :



http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
PHOTO - 4A  -  ROSE  HIGHLIGHTS

This would be more difficult, for 1.) you need to begin with Level 11 or 12 hair....Level 12 is what she has. Then this is more "ROSE".............than Pink so you would need to create my secret formula.

Made from Color Touch  - - KC's Dark ROSE Formula
Purchase
9/16 

6/45 
+   
4-8 ounces of 13Volume Developer

Now the trick to mixing this is this.............YOU CANNOT JUST MIX THE 2 COLORS ! !  
 One must  only use the following formula using the above colors. If you don't do it like this you end up with a mess, but it is NOT THAT HARD!
#1.) Squeeze 1 ounce of 9/16 into bowl.........
#2.) Squeeze 2 grams of the 6/45 color coming out the tube into the bowl. Mix those 2 items together first with a knife. 
#3.) Pour 2 ounces of 13Volume Developer into the bowl and MIX WELL. 
#4.) Now just apply all over evenly and quickly 




















  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section in the back or where you want the color to be the darkest.
  • now just section and part your way up the hair applying the color this formula will look EXACTLY like the ends in Kate Hudson's hair below..... OR put the darker highlights like in the photo 4-A , above...

 


http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
DARKER  ROSE  ENDS



Remember BOOST & BURST will keep your ROSE-BLOND Hair all Rosy & Easy. Shampoo leave that in a couple minutes then decide how much color you want from BURST they both have loads of pigment in them.............. so knock yourself out.

Any Questions?


April 26, 2015

Bleach for the Stars - Part 1 - Oil Bleach DEMO Application



The Quest For Platinum Continues....

Now you have everything you need and its time to begin. First you are going to want to read and re-read the directions to mixing the oil bleach...its super important to mix it correctly and the way the ingredients go together is different from anything you have mixed together in the hair color world. So again...READ & FOLLOW exactly.



**Add > Plastic Applicator Bottle > to your Equipment list


The consistency of Oil bleach is more liquid-y than any other, so its a little trickier to use and a lot messier ...BUT...just keep in your head "this will make my hair healthier - when it is all said and done".


TRY hard to find a friend or pal of some sort to help you apply this, the back is going to be tricky if you are doing it to yourself, it can be done with mirrors...but be sure to use them if your are doing it to yourself.


Here we go! Read through the entire directions first. then get prepared and if needed read through again.




  1. Divide DRY hair into four sections (see illustration 12-20)


  2. Prepare cotton strips, tear cotton rope into 7-8" strips (have about 40-50 ready) depends on thickness & length


  3. Apply protective cream around the hairline and over the ears.


  4. Put on protective gloves (  'small' Latex come with the Oil bleach kit - which makes it easy to apply - they are surgeon gloves which I like the best as you can feel the hair as you work)


  5. Prepare the Oil Bleach in bowl, almost always I will mix 2 batches of oil bleach, if you have hair any longer than chin level is a good measure, mix with tint brush and use immediately to prevent deterioration. One of the bigger secrets of bleach is that the majority of its "punch" or "power" takes place all in the first 55 minutes. It has about 20% of its power left after that, but that would mean leaving the bleach on for 2-3 hours to get what you need out of it. Therefore the trick is.... to complete this entire regimen, and if and when "2" APPLICATIONS of BLEACH are necessary( see #11), you take this application off and reapply a brand new one. After years of doing these, you cut time off the process by doing it this way. Promise!
  6.  
  7.  


  8. Begin in the Back on one side..................... Have comb, tint brush, cotton strips and lightener set-up....................... I have never done this procedure to myself, always to clients. I have always used a tint brush and bowl. But in reviewing how others accomplish this process, some put the mixture in an applicator plastic bottle. As a rule I do not recommend these bottles, BUT...if you are trying to do this to yourself ( a very brave endeavor I might add!) , I am thinking the applicator bottle might be easier especially for the back. Up to you...purchase the applicator bottle if you decide to... they have them at Sally's. Now be completely ready to go without having one thing interrupt you, this is a time consuming process and needs to be applied as FAST AS YOU POSSIBLY can there is absolutely NO room for breaks.
  9.  

  10.  
     ILLUSTRATION 12-20(above)
     
  1. Begin the application on the bottom of one side you are NOT putting it on the roots, you are applying from 1/2" off the scalp and extend the lightener up to, but not through the porous ends.Use 1/4" partings to apply the lightener, applying to the top and underside of the subsection in quick movements. Why? The heat from the head speeds up the processing on the first 1/2": therefore that is the last area you apply to. 
  2.  
  3.  


  4. Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parts to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair ( photo 16-51). So you will be 1st applying the bleach 1/2" off the scalp laying the cotton down on the roots to keep the bleach from running down on the roots....on both back sections and then the front sections, moving as quickly as possible. (FAST)




  5. Continue to apply lightener, double checking application adding more if necessary. Do NOT COMB THRU the hair. Make sure all hair is covered and moist, with oil bleach that is hardly a problem....
  6.  
  7. Now if you have not done a strand test...so that you know how long it takes YOUR hair to get as light as you desire. You will have to keep checking it. To check lightening level use a damp towel and a water spray bottle to Blot do NOT rub -- the strand to look at the color. When its about 15 minutes from being ready...is what you are looking for. I am not sure how to teach you this trick....it comes from experience....and one way around experimenting on your own head if you are hesitant is to order a "Doll Head" they make them with real human hair that are made to color.


The cotton is used to keep the lightener OFF of the 1st inch of the hair, it is important to do that to prevent what they call "hot roots''. Which is where the roots end up lighter than the rest of the hair. 

The heat of the head warms the lightener which makes it lighten faster than the rest of the head ....therefore the lightener is kept OFF the scalp until the very last 30-35 minutes.


There is the first half of the procedure .....the second half comes tomorrow...........

April 25, 2015

Hydrogen Peroxide Speaks Volumes !....Hair Color Can't Live Without It



Hydrogen Peroxide / Developers

Let me bring the concepts down … to the planet, a lot of this may seem unnecessary and strange sounding but everything needs to be taught and understood for those of you wanting to professional hair color at home front. All of the info talked about, needs to be said ...so I can refer to it as I head deeper into teaching hair coloring at home, be patient. If you want to learn information that would cost a tremendous amount of $$ plus years of experience, just read and re-read every post. I am teaching all our secrets - I don’t know a soul that would do that.}
Getting down to the nitty-gritty > to make a batch of haircolor to put on hair, this is the picture: You have a bowl…a tint brush …on one side of the bowl is some color ….squeezed out of a tube…on the other side of the bowl…..Is the “white stuff”…..which has no smell until the 2 substances are combined…then POW- mix the 2 things together and it explodes in aroma and changes hair color .


That white stuff is the Developer …or Hydrogen Peroxide. I snicker when I hear that some new hair color is great & wonderful because it doesn’t use peroxide. To me….as a chemist….as a Colorist…the last thing on the planet I would want would be a hair color that does NOT have hydrogen peroxide in it ! 

The only hair color that does not work with Developer is SEMI-Permanent Hair Color
A developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidative hair color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and :

create a change in hair color

Developers, also called oxidizing agents or catalysts, having a pH between 2.5 and 4.5 . Although there are a number of developers on the market, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the one most commonly used in hair color.


VOLUME is the measure of the potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide. The lower the volume, the less lift is achieved; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action. The majority of permanent hair color products use 10 ,20,30,40 Volume hydrogen peroxide for proper color development.

One of the best little tricks in the world of developer are TINTED versions, in other words we have Blue and Violet Tinted Developers in 20 And 40 Volume which helps when needing any sort of warmth reduction ( too much brass/blorange/Gold) if those are your problems give either Blue or Violet Developer a try.

April 22, 2015

BLEACHING For The Stars : Complete Directions on Professional Hair Bleaching

Be Blonde Before Breakfast

  

Today?

Bleaching and Highlights !

Today and for the next 10-14 days we will talk about all things "BLONDE"..............so stay tuned for a cool course 


BLEACHING FOR THE STARS

We will talk about my absolute favorite procedure on the planet -->
 
BLEACHING VIRGIN HAIR 

 or
BLEACH & TONE
 
Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure? 

 
The change is so radical it is very rewarding to take brown hair. . . . white with ZERO brass and have it be healthy & shiny.

 
Two of the most important parts of this process
  1. the product you use

  2. following directions to the T
The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T. and NOT cutting corners !


I don't skip over steps, 

  • I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important, 
  • in chemistry it is important to apply every step and procedure. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe.... 
  • Cooking & Hair Coloring are both chemistry 
  • measuring and following the steps are extremely important. 
  • I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results. 
Please, if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions while learning or applying hair color.

Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners

hair color chemistry does not work well that way
 
I even added steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt.......... finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.
 

I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal, so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world. 

My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.PREPARATION
 For this process you will need OIL BLEACH.
Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way. 
We have made a complete Oil Bleaching Kit with all of the proper ingredients, including Violet Developer, 2 Applications per Kit, gloves, directions, Oil, a unique Oil/Creme lightener base,etc.



Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .

But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....

By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep conditioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???

OIL
...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.


It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.
Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.



 

READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:

{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.



TOOLS NEEDED

  • Towels

  • Combs

  • Protective Gloves

  • Plastic clips

  • Cape (old Tshirt)

  • Plastic or Glass Bowl

  • Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)

  • Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume

  • After Treatment - pH Balancer 

  • 4 OZ. measurer beaker

  • Cotton Rope ( by the yard)

  • Tint Brush

  • Oil Bleach Lightener .......


  • Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year.
  • Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com
  • Timer

  • Protective Cream

Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1

Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)

Double Process > coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)

Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing

High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit

Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening

Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse

April 21, 2015

How Hair Coloring & Blonding Works

It is NOT completely easy to understand how the hair coloring process takes place, but I promise you if I can learn to grasp it.....then certainly YOU can !

  You just have to promise me you will read this post more than once. You know how I know you can grasp it? I went to Hair Academy when I was 40 years old. I was the oldest one in the whole Academy .....older than every teacher.......older the administration and older than the Director....I had already raised my kids and experienced a 15 year career as a Stunt Woman in Hollywood. I even have a Stunt Award - which is our equivalent to a Academy Award, when I won mine they were televised, but no more.  

I knew ZERO about hair. Absolutely frickin' nothing - and- I finally understood it. 
How?
 By reading and re-reading my notes from school. The repetition is the key. It WILL sink in and make sense.
That is what I want you to do until you understand it, that is what they taught me and damn it, they were right.

Oxidative Hair Coloring -
That is what almost every hair color that we use today is called, this post is extremely important for you to understand how hair color works, no its not easy to understand but please come back to this post every now and then so you can read and review it.

Oxidation:  
1.The reaction of dye intermediates found in
hair coloring developers with hydrogen peroxide 2. The interaction of hydrogen peroxide on the natural pigment.

Deposit:
 describes the color product in terms of its ability to add color pigment to the hair. Color added equals DEPOSIT.
Lift: The lightening action of a hair color or lightening product on the hair's natural pigment

Hydrogen Peroxide:
 An Oxidizing chemical made up of 2 parts hydrogen & 2 parts oxygen (H2O2) used to aid the processing of permanent hair color and lighteners. Also referred to as a developer by Stylists/Colorists; available in liquid or cream.


Now we move to the Hydrogen Peroxide the "white creme" in the other bottle! There is also violet as you see above which is used in fighting brass in Blondes! Killerstrands little store is the only online store selling it so please click on the photo to a direct link.


Within the BOXED KITS OF COLOR (I'm on the war path against) there are 2 items enclosed, one is a bottle of color the other a bottle of peroxide.

Blonding:
The percentage of Lift in any color is directly related to its AMMONIA content. At times you will hear Color lines boasting of "no ammonia" which only means they are using ANOTHER chemical to do the same exact thing - (it baffles me why people think : 'that's better').


 There are a couple similar ingredients but - mostly they use MEA). Or, it is a brown or blackish type color and there is no "lifting" needed. For example: in many men's color lines promising to cover grey and not change anything else. There is nothing wrong with ammonia - people panic unnecessarily over the name, is my feeling. The true only disadvantage to ammonia in hair color: is - - if - - you are allergic to it, which is rare, but does happen, ammonia does work best for light blonding and lifting.

Oxidation
The percentage of dye content in the bottle is also known as pigment weight. The more dye molecules in the bottle, the more depositing capabilities the color has. The action of depositing dye or color molecules into the cortex of the hair shaft is partly triggered by OXIDATION, which is achieved by adding hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to the color. 
You see..........this is why Developer is absolutely necessary to the hair coloring process.

 The KEY to How the Whole Action
 of Hair Coloring Takes Place:   
  
                      
  • The dye molecule in any permanent color is too large to penetrate the cuticle of the hair shaft without first altering its structure with hydrogen peroxide. 
  • Since without hydrogen peroxide the dye will only stain the cuticle layer, understanding what happens when you add hydrogen peroxide to color is essential. 
  • That is also where the difference between Permanent,Semi-permanent, and Temporary color rests.
 After the Hydrogen peroxide is added to the color, it begins to oxidize, or lose an oxygen molecule. This creates heat in and on the hair shaft, which expands the cuticle layer so that the color or dye molecules can penetrate.



Once the hydrogen peroxide is completely oxidized, it turns into water (H2O), and its chemical action stops. The color molecules return to their original structure and become part of the structure of the cortex. The cuticle closes, trapping the dye or color molecules inside..........now, the color process is complete.

Don't let me lose you here, this may seem boring/confusing>or BOTH!! but... it will all make sense as you read and re-read it.

If it doesn't, then ask me questions LOTS of them, I want you to get it...I truly do, because if you do... then you will have knowledge that some of the top Colorists in the country possess & that is what ROCKS about teaching.
 

April 17, 2015

Becoming a Brilliant Crib Colorist - Blonding & Its Warnings

PIC 20-40

Crib Coloring

In an attempt to stay interesting and not bore you, I am going from “hair” theory back to “color” theory and back again. It’s an odd of way teaching the info but am assuming we have no closet Cosmetology students out there and it will be OK.

D.ominant U.nderlying R.emaining P.igment      

Contribution or
DURP
Its very important to understand DURP. 
 Primary, secondary and tertiary colors can be found at any level of natural hair color ( See Pic 20-40) .Remaining pigment contribution is the color that will be left in the hair after the lifting process. Lifting is the term used for lightening basically. 
Knowing the colors that will be present at a given level of color ensures that you will select the proper base color formulation to either neutralize or enhance to achieve the desired color.

A huge problem you will face is that most color swatch charts display color selections on “white hair” swatches, another weird move on the hair color manufacturers’ part… My complaint with Boxed Hair Color is how they do not take into count what color the hair is underneath when selling them. It matters, as much as they like to pretend it doesn’t, when new colorists ( like you) are just learning how to do this, that can really throw them off. 


It irks me that the damn companies cannot just make the charts right to begin with. It wouldn’t cost a penny more, but it would be correct, therefore eliminating all the improper color on women in those first few years of learning hair color and when buying hair color “kits”. Hair color is a science and does not have to be “guess work” which is what these companies make it , by supplying the wrong information. By the way, the charts are just as messed up for us in the professional world as well, so they are not prejudice, we all get screwed up with improper color charts and information.

Can’t they just spread that technology so all the companies can benefit ? Like I said..its not rocket science.The entire problem with both Boxed Kits and their charts boils down to them not taking into consideration the pigment contributed from the natural hair UNDERNEATH that will remain during the lifting cycle.

( Figure 20-40 is just a rule of thumb there is no way to make charts like this on every line for every company)

Contribution of DURP

Decolorizing the hair’s natural melanin pigment allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result. First, the hair is decolorized (bleached) to the appropriate level. Then the new color is applied to deposit the desired color. The natural pigment that remains in the hair contributes to the artificial color that is added. Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to become a beautiful, controlled, final hair coloring result. 

Many times you see people walking around with just awful “yellow” hair, for a Colorist there is nothing worse to see “yellow” or “orange” that is a mistake by not lightening the hair enough times or leaving the lightener on the hair long enough. You must always reapply lightener as it stops work after 65-70 minutes. So taking it off and re-applying is the best way to achieve that brass-free blond you desire ! Sometimes with very resistant hair…you may need to do it one more time the next day. The point is Stylists that leave hair this way, don't need to, it might take a while but ALL hair is fixable in my mind. My mentor taught me that as I watched her many times work for 1 or 2 full days on a tough case. She would be proud, I have spent many a long night in that same spot.

Toners are semi permanent or demi-permanent hair colors that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors. They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the decolorization (bleaching) process.

Toners are one of my passions…there was a time when I had hundreds of toners on hand at all times…one can perform magic with them. If you like to be blond – becoming a Picasso of Toners is a suggestion of mine you can vary the color of your hair with something as simple as a Toner application every other week & using the proper brand can also lend a tremendous amount of shine and strength to your strands. One of my favorite’s - I call it MAUVE - CREME -

 it’s a very soft-rose-cream color…use Maroon BURST maybe to achieve it (having a platinum base). This is a Color Top Colorists strive for constantly....why? Because it is next to impossible to achieve!

TEN DEGREES OF DECOLORIZATION
See the 10 degrees of decolorization? Those are the stages the hair goes thru as it loses its color or as the color is taken out with lighteners…bleach, etc. Not all hair will go through the 10 degrees, each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final hair color result . See figure 16-20





BLEACHING POINTERS


In my opinion there is only one way to lighten hair this light, safely… and that is with oil bleach. Here at Killerstrands we offer an amazing Oil Bleach Kit, check it out on our website!

The hair needs to be very carefully taken care of when lifting past the yellow stage to white with lightener. 

  • Don't let people put you under a dryer when you have Bleach on your hair that will surely cause damage, 
  • it is absolutely WRONG to use heat with Bleach. Stylists do this sometimes in an effort to buy themselves some 'time' when they are busy. 
  • Just kindly say to your stylist: "No Thank You, I would prefer not be under a dryer"- I don't mind waiting. 
  • DO NOT RUSH LIGHTENING THE HAIR................
  • Another Red Flag is :  Overlapping. If you have previously lightened hair and you re-touch....... you must apply the next batch of lightener 3/4 " away from your previous bleach line....because bleach EXPANDS as it develops and many people are unaware of this fact.The extreme diffusion of color necessary to give hair a white appearance causes excessive damage to the hair strand. 
  • The result is the hair feels a bit “mushy” and will stretch without returning to its original length. When dry, the hair is harsh and brittle usually suffers breakage and will not accept a toner correctly.Treat hair like expensive crystal at this stage. Gleam & THRIVEN can save your hair at this point. I have had to repair so many other Stylists hair...that I have seen - everything, pretty much.

The way to that beautiful “baby blond” or “Marilyn Blond” ?...it can be carefully achieved by lightening the hair to pale yellow and then neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner.




Look at the 10 degrees on this chart
If hair is dark brown & you want to go blond check out the long route the hair must transition.
Check out where #1.is...you apply lightener and then the hair begins to lighten going up 1 Level at a time on This chart 16-20 to the right here....

So it starts at Brown and then goes to dark red-brown first ( you notice a fast change in the beginning) and at the beginning 20 ,minutes you will notice the hair lightening pretty quickly - heading up the levels from #1 to #2 ...to #3...to #4... to #5... to #6 at Level 6 it gets stuck and sits there for about the last 25 minutes. The GOLD molecule is very difficult to lift, which is why so many of you end up with Gold/Blorange/Brass hair !
 This photo is after 1 bleach application.

At this point you must take the initial application of Oil lightener off Rinsing with cool water...for 5-10 minutes. Then a very light quick shampoo, then rinsiing again. Dry the hair and re-apply for application # 2.
 Mix Oil Bleach Up Again Re-Apply for a 2nd and most times a 3rd application. But checking for health and strength after each application . Crib Colorists - ALWAYS ALWAYS have a set of helpings hands with you. Never Lighten alone.
 
 See in this photo the virgin Brown hair color ???? The gold piece underneath is 2 bleaching's and the section on top is done, we call it the color of frozen butter when wet as a guide for what to look for . When its finished it does NOT LOOK WHITE, it still appears a bit brassy. So make note of that.


These are levels hair must go through in that climb (the most common complaint I hear is "Blorange" hair)
 Basically that comes from the fear of leaving lightener on too long. Or not applying the lightener enough times. But if you really want to master this and get your timing down. Buy a swatch of your hair color (some extensions) and do a practice run at home. If I receive enough request for TEST strips I will be happy to carry them. 
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Check out all the colors of Blonde, which is your favorite?


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Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better

Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
Xcellent Gray Coverage, beautiful Shine + Hair Looks Like a Million Bucks w/ Wella !

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