Learning Level System Part 3 - The Little Trick to Determine Level

Determining Your (VID-virgin-is-desired) Level  

Choosing your levels, are the 1st step in trying to determine your hair color formula. One of the most important tools in hair color formulation is the Color Wheel. While I was in Hair Academy, we had to make color wheels from scratch one month, then from materials we found in nature the next month, and finally from Crazy Colors the last month. They really wanted us to know it, inside and out and backwards. Which I hope shows you the importance of knowing it. We even sell Color wheels in the store and I just marked them down 40% to make them affordable to everyone.



 Figuring out what Level you are is done a certain way and I apologize if I have not explained this before. Follow these 4 steps:

1. Part away, of lift away a 1/2 inch square of hair ( men, do your best) in the crown area (top) and hold it up in the air away from the scalp, allowing light to pass through
2. Using the Level Chart (we have for 1 penny w/ purchase) choose a swatch you feel matches the hair and place the hair on it. Remember you are trying to determine the depth level (lightness or darkness). Don't part or hold the hair against the scalp-- that will give you an incorrect number as the hair appears darker.
3. Move that level chart along the swatch of your hair to see if it is even from root to tip and note those numbers. Someone could have Level 3 base (super dark) Level 6 mid lengths and Level 10 ends. All of those levels need to be noted, when determining a hair color formula.
4. Determine the "Natural" Hair Color Level, then choose any hair color Level that is on the hair and then the hair color Level you want to be.

Hope That Helps,  
Killer Chemist

Part 2 -- Learning the Level System... #2

The main concern most of you have is how to make the hair color formula you want, to get your hair colored the way you want
What do I use to get the color I want...........is the worlds biggest question.
Without a "method'' you are left to guessing and that is what gets everyone to my front door anyway........so we know that doesn't work.
 If you formulate carefully you can save yourself from the mistakes that are everywhere in today's world of hair color. Planning ahead is good formulation.

Knowledge of basic theory provides good groundwork of formulation skills. Proper formulation is based entirely on Universal Hair coloring principles, specific product knowledge and good answers to the Killer 14 questions.

A good formula ( using any product ) & for any person....always considers the same set of variables -- this set of variables consists of the same set of variables:
THAT is good chemistry.

• Virgin Level___________
• Level it is  ____________
• Desired Level__________                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
• Percentage of gray______
• Texture_______________
• Length _______________
• Ethnicity______________
• Porosity_______________
• Prior color_____________
• Prior Bleach ??_________
• Your coloring__________
• DURP ________________ dominant/underlying/remaining/pigment
• what you can maintain, money and coordination wise__________

                                            

So the only way to get your perfect formula is to consider all of the relevant variables from your answers to the Killer 14 Questions & Answers -- beforehand.  These are the variables that determine EVERY successful formula, no matter who is formulating and what product is being formulating.  The only sure way to get perfect results is to consider all the relevant variables beforehand and shoot for the end, precisely...and THAT is the UNIVERSAL LEVEL SYSTEM of Formulating Hair Color!

This Universal method helps you to make different formulas at different times, which does not have to mean you do not have to pay attention to different manufacturers directions. Doesn't matter which brand I have in my had I ALWAYS ALWAYS read what manufactures have to say. I don't always follow it, but I at least like to listen and take into account what they recommend to do. There is no substitute for the reading of as many directions as possible.


 As a matter of fact I am in the process of writing my own short direction card for each line of color we have in the store, because all of these lines have different ratios attached to them. Which means the ratio of color to developer is different. The theory goes that the less developer used, the RICHER the color. So if that is the case.................which one of these would be the Richest?

• Koleston Perfect........2 to 1
• Color Touch............... 2 to 1
• O & M ...................... 1 to 1                                
• X.Factor..................... 1.5 to 1                                                        
• Matrix........................ 1 to 1
• X.Factor / demi ......... 1 to 1                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Answering all of the Killer 14 questions are what will train you to figure out your next hair color formula. So be thinking of them.

 A lot of our Group members were interested in having their own Level Chart so I have made Laminated Level Charts that are 1 Penny if you make a purchase of $20.00 or more . . . or cost $5.80  alone, available in our Store

KC



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join our group if you are interested in talking about all things hair + hair color related
Yahoo - Killerstrands Group

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 we are running a Special until the end of February,  Free Consultation with Hair Color purchase. Purchase 2-3-4-5 Tubes of color ..OR an Oil Lightener Kit PLUS Consultation,  sometimes we all need a little help

'''From the Beginning ... The Level System and How it Works

I will be going over the Level System for the next few weeks from the beginning and how one comes up with their own formula. There are so many people coming out with "high-end - ($30)" boxed colors or there is those screwballs over on that website I refuse to even speak of, trying to sell you color where they have put all the facts into computer software with hopes of coming up with another Boxed color formula for you.

                         
Boxed color formulas are not-the-answer...these wing-nuts have all asked me on-board, and I have declined gracefully. That is just not the answer, one more boxed-color formula in a fancier box -- because that is all it is.  There is no difference, they think because they have put prettier pictures on their 'box" and that it is on the computer where you can answer questions by ticking "off-a-box" on the computer and it shoots out a answer that it will be correct. They can never steal what it is my mind... and that is going to be used to help you get the proper hair color formula.

That is another reason I am committed to teaching all of YOU to learn 'how' to pick it out yourself.

In today's world, it no longer works to just teach on the Blog.
I resisted it as long as I could...
I didn't want Social Media to take over, because I feel its the death of our society as we know it
I can just see it breaking down the world of "Conversation" and "Contact",
BUT.........
its bigger than me
and even though its against everything I believe in....I am going to have to give-up and give-in and just roll over and do it...
So I apologize but I am now in FACEBOOK, TWITTER, & PINTEREST, the Blog, & the group....I will be teaching a new series called  "From the Beginning ... The Level System". . .which begins right here !!
So, please if you are interested in this series. . . . .
Sign-up for all those entities  you can unsubscribe when done as it explains on bottom of page

I've had some word of encouragement lately which I truly T-R-U-L-Y appreciate

Thank you from the bottom of my heart....


Photos From STYLES FOR 2013 - Great Britain !

 Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:24 AM
Subject:  KC-  thanks for all you do!
i wanted to write a short note to say that what you do  and, what you have done is commendable. Dealing with the public on a daily basis is hard work.
Being self -employed and running a business is challenging at any time.  You have been gracious to me and, willing to help at every turn.  As a male i'm probably the least of your headaches.  You have learned how to handle adversity, overcome obstacles, etc.  Just take care of yourself, delegate to
others, and get needed rest.  I just wanted to drop this encouragement e mail because we all need to hear about good outcomes following the crap that life throws at us. 
take care.,
mike

Sat. Jan 19

To

killertrinity3 killertrinity3@aol.com 

First and foremost I would like to thank you so much for all of your help. Not 
only did you help me with my question, you helped me with my order. You called 
back and made suggestions and that showed me that you care about your customers, 
and not just money. I used to work at a salon and will tell the shop owner about 
your company and your products!!! I will also tell me friends about your company 
as well! Again thank you, thank you so much!!!!!!!!!! I will be ordering from 
you again and every time I need products!!!!!!! :D

Ashley M. 

Thank You,

Again,

KC 

Hair Color Tint Brush. . . Friend or Foe ?

This may seem like the simplest most unimportant thing to talk about but there is a reason the top Colorists in the world all use Tint Brushes compared to bottles or whatever other devices there are out there to apply hair color to the noggin'. As a Colorist I also find the brush I like the most, which just comes from the "feel" of how applying the hair color goes. 

If you were to study in depth about how hair color goes into the hair strand itself, how the strand opens up, lets the color molecules INTO the hair strand and finally closes to keep the hair that "NEW" color...a  Then you would maybe see 'why' when you apply the color... pressing the hair with stiff bristles loaded with hair color is SUPER important. We can actually see the difference. The difference between one tint brush and another say. Many of us have different tint brushes for different applications. 

Of course all Crib Colorists do not need to be that tuned into the Tint brush. But I have been amiss in explaining the advantages to the Tint Brush and why you should always use one and when you do use it to press HARD onto the head and hair. Think of wanting to push that color into your head as hard as possible. I'm sure every single one of you has stood behind someone in line and their hair color is spotty, many times on men, but to be perfectly honest it is just as prevalent on women. Women with boxed hair color purchases. 

Those things need to be outlawed. I know I say this a lot. But we have laws in this country that say 'false advertising' is a CRIME. Well, its time those companies be brought to justice for everyone's horrific hair colorings. That may seem harsh -- but as far as I have experienced through thousands of clients that were devastated when the disasters happened to them. The truly sad part is that "YOU ALL" have thought it was "YOUR" fault when in fact - you had nothing to do with it. You were doomed when you picked up that box.

In closing I would like to show you some tint brushes, we just have one, in the store as I have a hard time getting a lot of you to switch to the Tint brush.  Please let me know if you are interested in us carrying any additional shapes and sizes. But for now here is my favorite - it is crimped and the bristles are very hard which makes it great for pressing the color into the head/hair : KC TINT BRUSH 

 

I have revamped the FACEBOOK page, I am now on TWITTER, We have fired up some PINTEREST boards which will carry photos of hair color and new cuts and trends for 2013.

I wanted to announce the winner of our $100.00 Gift Certificate to the store from the end of December: 
                                   A customer from Canada ! -- Michelle Ranson was the lucky winner ! ! 

Lastly........we have opened a new group, its on the YAHOO platform.......

Please we are looking for Killerstrands / Crib Colorists ....come join our YAHOO GROUP and talk about ALL THINGS HAIR ! ! 

Bleach Re-Touch....Re-Touch .....Who Wants A ReTouch - Part 2 (demo)

Re-Touch, Re-Touch . . the story continues
Part 2 also lost in the weight of this Blog... 
 
In our little project I decided to tackle 2 birds, as I get this additional question and problem all the time. It is the single biggest battle and conflict between clients and Hair stylists there is, and that is the battle between hi-lift blond versus bleach as the best and LEAST damaging lightener. I've spoken about it many times, people get all wrapped up in the "NAME". .for some strange reason the word "BLEACH" just plain and simply freaks people out when a hair stylist mentions it.

ALL people are afraid of the word BLEACH. I still haven't nailed the reason - 'why' - but its a universal problem. Some of it has to do with the fact that they have had bleach used on their hair and it was used incorrectly and destroyed their hair. All hair color if used INCORRECTLY can destroy your hair. But, there are just so many precautions set in place now with professional hair color. Do you realize that is the manufacturers main goal ??? to produce a shiny -- rich -- vibrant -- head of hair color - - I know this because a former best friend of mine was the regional VP for a large European Hair Color manufacturer. Remember your hair color is their calling card, that is why they strive to have the best color possible, its not something that one can hide, hair color is right there....IN YOUR FACE!

 But I can tell you that I have seen 50 times more destroyed hair from people using Boxed Hair Color Kits than from clients whom have used the bleach - wrong. So why isn't there a big terror factor with the words Boxed Hair Color Kit ? ? There should be, there really should be. ..


Today we will go into applying the high lift blonde on one quadrant in the proper mannerr . . . and then applying Killerstrands Oil Bleach  (so gentle and moisturizing) to the right back quadrant. 

This way we can see twice how to apply a re-touch. . . showing you no matter what color or product you are using a re-touch is a re-touch and its all applied the same way. Here are your supplies and some gloves!

Now on this Mannequin I was told her hair is completely natural with no treatments on it to prevent my color from working exactly as it would on a human head. But you just never know. I'm going to bet that she will end up with Level 7-8 roots. . . . 8 at the very lightest . . .but Trixie is a mannequin with tricky hair - so we will just have to see.



The 2 back sections we will be working with today. Left will be the high-lift Blond and the right will be the Killerstrands Oil Bleach. Treat each section as its own little quadrant. Don't even think about the rest of the head when you are working on the one section. It will help with your speed. Being able to apply the color quickly is a tremendous advantage, and the only trick to learning that ? ? ?

Is ............PRACTICE................. PRACTICE ................PRACTICE....... !
                        


 Always start with outlining the section - FIRST with the color or bleach.
have color on the brush so you can flip it around and apply color after you have parted off section.
Its a little tricky at first - - but again - practice - practice -- practice which is why

<<<<<< LOOK HERE
Working from the bottom of the quadrant to the top:
in 1/2 inch partings again, I really encourage all of you to purchase a doll head and use her to practice on - this is your new hobby - - take it seriously and purchase the products you need to begin a new hobby 

. .There are about 20 different mannequins - so any thing you want is available. 
If you want me to carry them, please just fill in the FEEDBACK button on store....
 

  Apply the product to the top and bottom  of the parting/roots - at the same time, to enable you to move quickly - which will help you get the job done quickly.


You will notice the partings go up the head within a quadrant till reaching the top.


Now for interest in this project I have decided to apply bleach to the other side back quadrant . . . my absolute favorite 'on-the-scalp' bleach is Killerstrands Oil Bleach, you cannot get Oil Bleach ANYWHERE in the country, currently, but here. I will not do a bleach and tone without it. It leaves the hair in the best condition while also lightening the quickest and leaving the most striking tones. Its available in our store. KILLER COLOR CLINIC, you join our group first for access to the store. We like to remain small - quiet - and personal, there are 3 of us.... to help when you make a purchase with guidance and help on the products you choose.
We are trying to promote HAIR COLOR as a new American Hobby and want to get it off the ground on the right foot.
So lets start the Bleaching side . . . 1st Step? Again OUTLINE the quadrant with the Bleach.

So this section is done the exact

same way as the high lift blonde. I

encourage all of you to practice

the DIP- PART - FLIP & APPLY

TECHNIQUE- once you get it

down, your application will go so

quickly and smoothly you will think

you were a PRO!. Seriously, its not

that hard and once again all it takes

its a little PRACTICE PRACTICE

PRACTICE

There you have it, the 2nd quadrant completed. I hope you got the feeling of working on each quadrant as its own little project...zipping through the slices with DPFA
the faster you get the better your retouch is going to look, so each time you will get a little better and faster.

Time for them to 'cook', is what I like to call it.
Then when doing 1-1 1/2 ' of hair it will take 65 minutes, after that the procedure is always the same...........
Rinse for 5 - 10 minutes with clear luke-cool water.
Follow with INTENSIVE on entire head..........apply more on new color ...............process 30-90 minutes. rinse and Tone with
MATRIX SPV + SPN...10Volume
or
Color Touch 8/1  (darker blond) + 13Volume


I'm always calling the two hobbies the same - - - cooking and hair . I feel hair should be as natural and as organic and as fun as cooking I suppose, that may sound strange but I feel it can be . Can you imagine if you would have been offered a class in "Hair Care" or "HEALTHY HAIR" and then the advanced class was "HAIR COLOR 101 " in High School, what a great and productive Elective that would have been! Can you imagine the amount of people that would want to take the class ?

Any questions? Please leave them in FEEDBACK button in store please. . . Have a great weekend everyone - I love you all . . . .
This is a RE-POSTING of a lost Post from 2007 !

KILLER CHEMIST
Killer chemist