All you ever wanted to know about Toners . . .
Pink hair is only achieved by using a Pink Toner. Pink Toners are made in 2 different manners...the first being as you see here....bleach the hair soft yellow.... That is why you never choose the color you want by the color in the tube. If you were to use Soft Pink you will never EVER achieve this color. Always start darker!
There is a unique class of hair color called 'Toners' and... since beginning Killerstrands, I have always had a difficult time explaining them to both the public & hairstylists. Not much about Hair color formulation is just easy to understand, but if you promise me you will just keep reading concepts you don't understand...I promise it will come to you. Why is it not just a snap, to understand?
Because. . . It involves many different fields:
- Art knowledge (Color Wheel)
- Chemistry Knowledge ( How developers & hair color work)
- Cosmetology Knowledge ( understanding the art of changing hair color)
- Experience, So much of what I know comes from 10,000 heads of hair in my chair
The Level System means how Light or dark your hair is. The number that is first on the box of color is the level the color is that is inside that tube.
Lets start with the tube of color on the right ( X.Factor !) --->
The tube on the bottom is 5.18
That means the color is a Level '5' which is what level this young lady with the headband has:
All the numbers AFTER the dot . or after the slash / in any hair color line is the demonstration of the "tones" in that particular tube of color.
The next number on our lower box of color is a "1" ... which means "Ash" . Because the "1" is first, it means the Ash tone in this particular color is the strongest tone.
The second number is "8" which in this line stands for
So all together this color is a Level 5
Now you do the color on top ......Level_______
Tone 6 : Red
Tone 2 : Violet
Just to make things confusing not every single line has the EXACT same tones, but every year I watch more and more lines start to go with what everyone considers "Universal".
There are no real books that teach these concepts in 'layman's terms'... and you cannot teach complicated concepts to NEW students without using simple explanations. I keep hearing that Cosmetology Schools across this country give the Killerstrands Blog as required reading before they start working on people's hair. Scary, huh?
See, those of you that read and begin understanding the concepts I teach you are miles ahead of NEW
Hairstylists. Take control of your hair by coloring it yourself. It truly is not that hard.
I always insist you learn the Level System, there is no way around that, so if you give up, you will not understand how haircolor works. I feel since I started this I just have not come up with the perfect explanation as to how it works... I keep trying though ! I have tried many different examples.. including exactly what they teach in HAIR ACADEMY...
But, I'm not quitting now, so I will keep trying.
A toner is defined as an "Opaque" haircolor, that is used with a very low volume of developer - that merely adds a translucent color -- laid on top of the current color. It began with the 2-Step Process called a Bleach & Tone - way back in the Marilyn Monroe days. She would get her hair bleached white - then need a "toner" to get rid of the yellow ( ... I can guarantee you everyone has a certain amount of yellow when doing this process) . Yep, even Gwen Stefani needs a toner after her bleach touch up.
I would say ... one of the top 10 questions asked a Colorist year in and year out, is, 'what is a Toner'?? I have always explained them as similar to a nylon on the leg....you know when a person has a white leg....and then instantly it is 'tan'...I'm a redhead I've HAD to wear nylons since the age of about 12 my legs are so damn scary!But regardless of that, that change is what a Toner does... it "coats'' the hair and adds a tad of gloss. I love them and they are used in the TV and Movie industry all the time. Did you watch the Emmy's ?? Most of them would have a toner that morning....but again they spend an entire day getting ready for a couple hours.
But that is not to say they are exclusive to them. For anyone darker than a Level 8, you would use a toner to mainly help you get a couple weeks more life out of your gray coverage. I see all these goofy mascara's & sprays & the goofiest of all is that one you put little fibers all over your head. I will never for the life of me understand why you wouldn't just apply a toner to the roots only. So if you want to get longer life out of your color - - lets say it is our beauty from above.... she is a level 5 . . . lets pretend she has 40% gray and wants to make it last another week. All you have to do is use your regular color : The formula for this color is: LANZA 5N + 6A +20V, which is your every 6-8 week formula. But you want to get another 7-10 days out of the color ...just mix the color plus 10 Volume or DEMI - developer and and apply the color to the roots around the face and parting and a little bit deeper in all areas. It will take you the same amount of time as all those other tricks that are for sale, but this will last more than 1 night till your next shower. ! Yes, it is a toner.... then you can see how a toner helps your hair along with covering up your gray....shampoo out and treat with INTENSIVE if you have time, but is not at all necessary.
I wish hair color manufacturers would concentrate on this category. Instead they come up with these mickey mouse "foam" hair colors. . . .in which the entire concept is nothin but a gimmick - NEVER USE THOSE + they are horrible for the health of your hair.