March 24, 2010

“Highlights Are History” Killer Strands versus Vogue, Literary Infringement or ?

Your Opinion?

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With my unusual step into the “writing world” via this Blog, I have had more than my share of surprises as to how the weird world of writing works. Over and over I have stated, “I…AM…NOT…A…WRITER”, never had the interest, talent or desire to be one -- never wanted to be accused of being a lousy one. I pride myself in all my endeavors of becoming a master, not too sure where that comes from. Within this new medium (Internet) I knew of no other manner in which to teach the masses, the information I have taught here in the Blog. So, I conformed – gave it my best effort and our 3 year anniversary is 3 weeks from tomorrow, I’m pretty proud of that. 3 years of writing 1-5 posts per week, by a non-writer.hell hair 114
One of my first wake-up calls to the legal side of the whole shebang was when I (1st or 2nd) wrote about the glories of Argan oil, a long time back. Some Academic woman from the Midwest came down on me so hard I still remember not sleeping as a result. Accusing me of “stealing information”, “literary infringement”, improperly quoting it . I think the word bibliography was used….all sorts of ramblings. She acted as if I stole the Mona Lisa pasted it on this Blog and swore on the Bible, I painted it myself. See, I can only quote Artwork  ;-)))) killer5682
I was stunned, to say the least.
What happened was I …yes, I borrowed a couple technical sentences straight out of a NY TIMES piece on the subject and didn’t change them at all. I used the direct sentences from the article, so about 2/3 of the paragraph was word for word from the article. I never said it was my theories, none of that….to this day I still remember feeling very ill that day and just not having the health to write my own sentences that made good sense. I suppose I may have sub-conscientiously knew it was wrong, but I don’t remember.
So I began a little online verbal battle with her via the ‘comment - section’ of the BLOG ( which can no longer be done)…. so everyone could see that I had innocently made a mistake that I didn’t even know existed { remembering all the while, “writing” is not my world}.
While she was firing off all her Academic malarkey to me I was on my end researching every type of copy write and infringement topics I could find, she was right and I was wrong and after the 24 hour battle instead of edit it, ever so carefully,  I deleted the entire article. The only one that lost in that war was YOU the readers, because It was a great article about how I feel about (natural earth grown)oils and how I feel that everyone is really missing out by not having them in diet and life. ( I’m presently working on a new version as I feel very strongly about the positive effects of oils/lipids for the human body)
Her little snide comments, then my little snide comments. . . it was silly of me…BUT, I learned my lesson and I never did it again. If she had done it offline and personally, she would have accomplished a much better outcome – I would have listened/learned and most likely we would still be speaking today.  She claimed to be an “educator” and I felt a pang of sorrow for her students.
About a week ago I received an email from one of my trusty readers that said this:
“See article of the same title, "Highlights are History," in the April 2010 issue of Vogue.
Ah, to be one step ahead of the masses...”
I wasn’t quite sure what she meant, so I Googled VOGUE, Googled the sentence - nothing about Vogue and the sentence came up. The only thing that came up was all my articles and posts on the subject of highlights are history – my writings on both Blogs on my PLOGS --  I named the one  – because it is exclusively photos – no words ;-))))
If I was doing such a bad thing. . . Why is VOGUE not doing a very bad thing ?? They have FACT checkers, they know what the rules and regs are, they most likely invented many of them.
Page 175 of the APRIL ISSUE of VOGUE magazine is TITLED:
HIGHLIGHTS  ARE  HISTORY
now According to the U.S. Copyright Office, "Your work is under copyright protection the moment it is created and fixed in a tangible form that it is perceptible either directly or with the aid of a machine or device”.
Well, a computer fits that bill, and if you look over to the right and down in the side bar… you will see this
image go down to “H”, then to
HIGHLIGHTS ARE HISTORY
I have (at least 7) posts on this subject AND HAVE even LOGO-ED THE TOPIC,
TRYING MY HARDEST TO GET OTHERS TO THINK ABOUT BANISHING THE TECHNIQUE
So, why does a big publication like VOGUE get to steal from the “little guy” ? and its OK ?
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
You know what's even more odd ?  About 10 months ago, Killer Strands received an email from an anonymous reader, with the enquiry  “would like to talk about your work” with the responsible party and her email being her:
“ name “ @ conde naste.com
CondeNaste owns Vogue.
How do I know that? My daughter is an accomplished fashion photographer, studied under the late great IRVING PENN for 2 years in New York. Her checks and her insurance were paid through CONDE NASTE, as Mr. Penn was employed by VOGUE/CONDE NASTE  right up to nearly his death at 92, last year.
I emailed that address daily for a couple weeks with no response.
Forgot about it. Until Now.
I don’t know what the “lead-time” is for magazines. . .but the whole thing is a little too “co-inky-dink” for mOne remembers an email like that, I don’t  remember much . . . but I distinctly remember that because I really hoped it would bring more notice to Killer Strands (my main goal).  If I am to get the word out about how to achieve - and keep > STRONG – HEALTHY - SHINY Hair….then I am going to need more help. Like notices by magazines such as VOGUE. (Although theft was not really what I had in mind).
I want to hear what you think about this…. and for a couple days I am going to (attempt) to open the comments up for direct posting to the BLOG (normally I must weed though the SPAM in them ) 
These are the 2 pages from VOGUE….
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Vogue   Magazine                          
Sarah Brown : Beauty Director
email :
TalkingBack@Vogue.com
Letters :  VOGUE MAGAZINE     4 Times Square    NewYork  New  York,  10036

Killer  Chemist

March 14, 2010

Must Wear Ways for Hair This Spring

Inside Track on Hottest Trends

My monthly hair ‘zines show up from Europe and I get all inspired, they take hair so much more seriously over there. They monthly announce new collections and style predictions, almost always using American Celebrities style to draw their hypothesis from. Not a fan of the ‘celebrity’ thing, but am sweet on the fact that they include us in on their crystal gazing.
For Spring ( is it spring where you live?) they have picked 5-6 looks – I always like about 1/2 of them – remember this is Europe and it is a strictly hair magazine…LA doesn’t count as we don’t have seasons ( which personally I abhor).
First off they have chosen
                      FUTURISM
Hair with a sci-fi edge
                         w/ slicked back chic
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Futurism was everywhere on the runway, it shows off facial features quite well, and in my opinion it stems from the world wide appeal of the movie AVATAR. Style in clothing and hair always takes its lead from whatever is popular in other art forms. Many times its movies….the whole Flat screen TV- BLUE RAY movies, 3-D experience is bombarding our civilization so Futurism was not at all a surprise.
I would use the combo of SUDZZ Blowout and Sebastian’s Shaper for this tricky look. By combining the 2 then emulsifying by rubbing the 2 together super quickly, you will want to apply to damp hair, then blow dry carefully for ‘structured support’ and hold that is touchable and humidity resistant.
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PLAYTIME
Bows ruled the runway as designers went big on kooky cool w/ bright colors
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Its funny I was talking to my youngest daughter who has so much style ….yet - doesn’t even realize it…asked her what I should carry in the store for hair accessories, I want to add a whole new category of products (hair accessories oh and scents too are on their way - my own) Before Xmas she told me “bows” – anything with bows….How she knew BEFORE the runway shows – is beyond me – but she does that a lot.  Personally these king size bright color bows are for people like Katy Perry, not your every day person . . . but you can tone it down wear smaller/ more subtle bows – in not such a bright-a_s color !  Bows were seen all over the Marc Jacobs show, so I guess its not just for K. Perry.
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Messy - dressy
          Natural, soft texture and
brimming with a halo       of flyaways,
no-effort hair has never look so glamorous
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This girl could be the 3rd triplet of the Olsen twins…this is the “just rolled out of bed” hair but it looks hotter than hot, and everyone has wanted this look for about the last 10 years… at least they have here in Southern California…I would say this is and has been the number 1 look by my clients for about a decade – although I never realized that until – just now. You notice I don’t carry a lot of styling products, but I really should start…. so many of my clients want /wanted this look – this or slick straight. . . . and besides serums – GLeam and a few light light hair sprays and root lift products I guess I don’t carry enough. See this whole ‘writing thing’ is as therapeutic for me as it is for you! ha ha.
Back to the subject – This look has a really nonchalant finish, complete with wispy, translucent ends, and a hint of static and shine. Its fashion forward enough not to look grungy though, its hair that’s been styled to look carefree and effortless – messy yet dressy at the same time. Corkscrew  a few random pieces, apply a texturizer + a serum and do the ‘ole “scrunch” with a diffuser on the end of your dryer..
2 …of my cocktails
                 great for this look
Combine the desired amount of SUDZZ  Zephyr and SUDZZ Lemonade Dreamz in palms and emulsify by rubbing together – apply to damp hair and distribute evenly. Volumize with a weightless touch. Perfect for fine hair {increases hold a tad}
Combining SUDZZ Aquafix (yes, I know its a conditioner – but used as a styling product its a completely different animal)  with SUDZZ  Zenyth  and emulsify, apply to damp hair and distribute evenly.  Ideal for those clients with medium to thick that want softness and control. Excellent for controlling “expandable” hair that becomes unruly during day time.
the MIGHTY-
                BOUFF
Think grown-up and groomed Amy
                     plus a little chic-cred
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Bouffant is the word and we all know where it started. Yep, Amy Winehouse can’t stand up, but oh well, long live her hair – I guess is the message by their choice of this.  I mean I loved her hair at the beginning as Hair Stylists you are trained to adore ‘change’ you had to or every person that has left your chair would look like a Stepford wife.
Hair has still got guts, texture and ultra volume, but it looks less dull and haphazard don’t you think? Its an in-expensive looking version of Emmy Award hair. You need 3 tools for this look:
  1. Tail comb or teasing brush
  2. bobby pins
  3. Shaper Hair Spray ( for lift AND hold)
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I feel Anna Paquin really got it right:
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For the look  - -  first a little GLEAM ( have you seen what it does for split & dry ends, its crazy successful)lightly blow-dry – putting velcro rollers in the last 30 minutes all on the top of the crown – hit with hair dryer, if speed is needed, teasing brush/comb the crown - - finish off with either Airplay or Shaper and I would even use a little Lemonade …to finish off give yourself a long sweeping side fringe. WEELLLLLLLLLAAAA!
My feel from the magazine is that crazy colors are coming back, I adore them…I think they should be a staple of hair color and always be used if not in small ways….some times. They are TRUE semi permanents – NO DEVELOPER, so no damage to the hair. I was happy to see quite a few of the new Clairol line of Semi Permanents Killer Strands began carrying ordered this past week. They are such an amazing answer, if you have damaged-fried hair and just have to do something with the color / or simply if you refuse to use developer on your hair….They do not lighten hair at ALL. Which is a true Semi Permanent and I’m sure you can now see why they had fallen out of favor, 80 % of all color is lightening clients present color in the 21st Century. I’m in process of trying to get a swatch book for you on the Clairol BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION so hold tight.
Here are a couple of the shots that were so inspiring to mebombshell strands215
Semi Permanents are free of Peroxide and ammonia or the Color Touch Line is a also a super safe and gentle color option as well.  You know if hair color is applied correctly  - - it does not damage the hair at all  - -  I now have about 1200 online crib colorists with happy healthy hair that is colored. All done by some time and effort put in in reading the blog under categories
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Remember Highlights are History . . .  I realize not everyone can pull off purple hair . . . you have to admit – this is subtle yet smashing . . . the color was applied UNDER NEATH, we call in a PEEK-A-BOO technique….works for “corporate-types that must pull off a ‘business-appearance’ Monday thru Friday : then on week-ends do a complete 180 degree transformation  - -
you would be shocked @ how many of these people – are in our world….a helluva lot
Spring Forward
Killer Chemist

March 8, 2010

Hair We Go Again - Female Pattern Hair Loss: 1 in 3 Women Suffer From Beginning @ Age 17

10,000 Heads Step 1 – Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo Exclusively

72301786  "I'm not only the president of the company, I'm also a client"
Wasn't that Bosley's commercial years back??...or something to that effect ? 
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Well, as lame brain as that line is, you can't fight the fact that BOSLEY is the first company to treat hair loss and like Wella when you have been in the business for over 50 years, you are bound to be great at it.
These people have done their homework...these shampoos  have great ingredients and are reasonably priced.  Which is why I have chosen to carry this line of hair loss/ thinning Shampoos. I still believe that the conditioners that come with this shampoo (or any shampoo for that matter) are like pouring a bottle of body lotion on your hair - right after you have washed it. sb10069813a-001  I mean..??? Why do that? the formula for a hair conditioner is the EXACT same formula as a body lotion or body cream (in the cosmetic chemistry world the same 2 products are called an Emulsion - an emulsion is the mixture of oil & water – or butters & water....... I promise you)    The day I realized that, I tell you I almost cried. I could not believe it, I still can’t believe it. What a major ‘dupe by a whole lot of large manufacturers on us the unsuspecting public – and even unsuspecting hair stylists. I never knew that – my mentor doesn’t know it  even Annie Humphries (QUEEN OF COLOR) doesn’t know it.
And Why?
The 2 worlds never collide really.
As a hair stylist you concerned mainly about how the clients hair looks on the “outside”. In school that is all you learn. How to change color, blow dry, cut, style . . . all the “outside” traits. No one ever taught us how a shampoo is made, how a conditioner is ‘made’….how a styling product is ‘made’. Which is why when I see one more hair stylist hawk their new line of hair care products, I get furious. . . I KNOW THEY DON’T HAVE A CLUE HOW THEY ARE MADE – or WHAT TO DO TO MAKE THEM A GOOD PRODUCT.  That is the Cosmetic Chemists job.
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So then you go to the cosmetic chemist, who sits in a lab of a large corporation and comes up with formula’s for shampoo’s, conditioners, all day long. They never see people. They never touch hair. They have absolutely NO IDEA how to blow dry hair, they don’t know volume from ‘flat’ because they have never styled hair, cut hair, or even yet . . . never have colored one head of hair. They do not TOUCH HAIR, how in the world can you expect them to make a good shampoo if they have no idea how hair itself works? ? ?  Which is why we have sooooo many lousy products out there. Those 2 worlds are completely different and they both aren’t too fond of the other.
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The Chemists think the Hair Stylists are dumb beauty school dropout types………..and the Hair Stylists think the Chemists are just a bunch of lab rat geeks without a clue as to the beauty and art of hair. Both have valid points… BUT, what about a decent shampoo? How in the Hell is that achieved?
I’m hoping that now with  new technology and applications like the one you are reading right at this very minute… {Killerstrands Blog } it will open their eyes and they begin listening to the people  - - - “ YOU ”  ! If you all support my Blog and my Store, that shows the big corporate yahoo’s that you are not going to just buy the crap they throw in front of your nose…not anymore. You want good ingredients that cater to keeping our hair on our heads -- not just cheap ones so they rake in astronomical profits. Because that is what is happening now. Sulfate’s probably cost these large manufacturers pennies and I’m talking 2 or 3 pennies not even 9 or 10…then 60-70% of a shampoo’s formula is water . . so I’m sure you can see my point.  These shampoo’s I carry have used better ingredients – MUCH BETTER ingredients, so that their profits aren’t nearly as big I promise you. Which of course is not the point to any of us. The point is you should pay for what you get, and they should stop reaping such large profits off of junk products. Because of our uneducated state – we never knew – independently we all thought, “it was just us”. I’m here to tell you  its not us……………..its THEM!
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What happened here at Killer Strands and why this world has been opened up to you “the public”  - - is because I “was” a Hair stylist – trained by the best in the world at the best School in the world. Who became ill, and could no longer go back to standing in a Salon for hours on my bad leg. So instead of just giving up I decided to begin studying Cosmetic Chemistry – so I, a hair stylist – totally 100% innocently cracked into the world of the cosmetic chemist and now understand how to make these treasured products. I’ve made my own entire line … just never had the $$ to begin from the ground up on production. So I’ve given it a go one product at a time.
But, the magic I see here is that I wonder if there is any other person – skilled in both arts. Cosmetic Chemistry & Hair Styling – that is who these big companies need to hire and/or produce. So they have people that understand BOTH mediums. But for now………..you have me. I hope my information and my message is understood.
I believe in using a Sulfate-free shampoo with wonderful ingredients & SOMA Protein Leave-in Spray (de-tangles & smooths ) and this line of Bosley shampoos fits the bill nicely. I honestly love every ingredient in this line of shampoos after reviewing the ingredients the shampoos for non-color treated shampoo are actually great for color-treated, I don't see one objectionable ingredient in any of the shampoos...not one! So I would not worry about any of them for anyone’s hair.
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Many people are under the misconception the only thing the Trinity, called Killer Strands, cares about is 'hair color'...when nothing could be further from the truth.
*The number 1 subject on which all else is based in all of my posts is achieving HEALTHY HAIR - first and foremost*
Improperly applied hair color is the number 1 reason for unhealthy hair, unfortunately. So that is why the subject comes up as much as it does, besides all the new and current Crib Colorists that have spawned up across the country due to Killer Strands teachings.
Now this Bosley line is of course Sulfate-free but it uses the surfactants that I have found the most success with, its a more expensive ingredient…which is the only reason I can assume not very many companies use it. It also contains many herbal extracts that I like for a healthy scalp which encourages a longer hair cycle, a healthier hair cycle - Sage extract & Pentapeptides, Rice Amino Acids, Panthenol, Kelp Extract and Vegetable Protein.
Hair can never have too much protein. Ever.
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Here's what the company says about its product:
Bosley Defense Nourishing Shampoo for Normal to Fine / Non Color-Treated Hair is a Gentle, sulfate free cleanser that helps to create a healthy environment for hair and scalp. Cleanses and removes toxins such as DHT from the hair and scalp skin, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss.
Use: Apply to wet hair, massage gently, *leave two minutes* and rinse.
*LifeXtend Complex:*
* Hydrates and nourishes while strengthening and fortifying the follicles and hair shaft for thicker, fuller looking hair
* Inhibits toxins such as DHT, a primary cause of hair thinning and hair loss
* Sulfate free, Gentle safer cleansing without potentially harmful ingredients
* Sage Leaf Extract helps stimulate healthy hair growth
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Eventually we will have all 6 shampoos but are starting with 4 to see how well they do. But, you know hair thinning and loss should be treated the exact same way cancer is.. PREVENTION WORKS THE BEST>. In other words, if you have any signs at all, I would print out that 10,000HEADS List and get cracking on it. The first step that needs to be changed is Step number 1 – NO SULFATES in your shampoo, and here is the perfect shampoo. If you have any inclination at all that your hair is thinning the idea is to prevent that from advancing any further by running the 14 steps as close to as you possibly can.
Which does not mean trying to do all 14 steps at once. Remember, no fanatics here. Take on 1 step at a time or 2 max. Work them into your way of life, slowly and with purpose.
I have thousands of successes, why don’t you try to be the next one ?
Killer Chemist

March 4, 2010

High Lift Blond, Achieving Lightest Blond – Zero Bleach

Battle of High Lift Blond Brands

Killer2435 I believe the last big new technology we’ve had in hair color was the product MAGMA, which is a one-step bleach and tone. Before that the next newest technology was the introduction of the high-lift blonde. Whoever coined the term “high-lift blonde” – should win an award… its brilliant. I mean if you are going to either go to a Salon and ask for a “blond” or chose one to do to yourself, wouldn’t the “high-lift blond” be the one you wanted to use? As opposed to just the “blond”? I certainly would . . . I mean to use a “high-lift blond” as opposed to a “bleach”….well of course you are going to choose the “high-lift'’ I mean – who wouldn’t? Just trying to make you all well aware of the “WORDING” used in this world of hair color and how misguiding it can be and to watch out for it. There are so many other factors to consider before choosing a process just for the “name”….PLEASE PLEASE do your homework, before asking from a Colorist, or performing on yourself. The technique called, “Bleach & Tone” versus the technique “High-lift Blond” are the 2 most popular blonding techniques and each of them are wonderful applications. Just depends the hair you are performing them on and the result you are seeking.
Many of you probably think blond is blond. Well, as in any art - - - there are hundreds of degrees of blonding…. from the darkest
level 7 Blond badasshair417
to a
Level 8 Blond
hellforhair018to a
Level 9 Blond
Killer Re-crop1 to a
Level 10 Blond
Killer2576
to a
Level 11 Blond
hair pro set058 or to the famous Marilyn Monroe
Level 12 Platinum Blond
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Look at the range in just those 5 levels of blondes. They are completely different. Its always been my feeling that the Level System is just way TO SMALL. I mean for 50 years it was level 1 through 10, then about 18 years ago they added level 11 & 12 when the HIGHLIFT Tints were introduced to the world of Hair Color. To me I see such a vast amount difference from one level to another that I feel, at the bare minimum - - - the System should have 20 Levels not 12…or 24 would be even better. That way there wouldn’t be such a radical difference between 2 levels. I mean Level 1-2-3 are so close you need a magnifying glass and a headlight to distinguish them all from each other, they are so damn dark. But between level 6 and 7 it is a huge difference…..as well as between Level 7 and 8. When people ask me for a level estimation I almost always use 2 numbers to distinguish which end of the Level I am talking( or thinking) about. I will say “ oh you are a 7-8 if its on the lighter end of a Level 7 or a 6-7 if its on the darker end of a 7 ! Which is why I feel we need a 20 Level System as opposed to a 12 level system.
Killer2813
Now with the recent experience with Renbow, I went on a mission to try to test all the high-lift blonds on the market. We used to do this annually ( every january) within the Salon, when I had multiple assistants…all my assistants were always students from Sassoon so they were schooled in the same strict standards I was . . . as goofy as some may think it to be . . . I saw many talented individuals come out of that school. This time I have been doing it, which is good for me to actually see for myself & that way I can write from first hand experience as well.IMG_1277 I have been experimenting with processing times, on 2 different levels of virgin hair…. level 5-6 and on Level 7-8 with various brands of high-lifts . . going off of what other Colorists I know use and like. You know something else I discovered? There are a few lines that hav . So that is a definite winner and being added to the Store and my list of “loves” ! I am actually very excited about the entire move and change…..as I found at least 6 new high-lifts that I am proud to introduce to you and that I will be using myself…. I always restricted myself to using 100A exclusively…which was a pain in the ass, because “getting” it was a frickin’ nightmare….NOW I have so many options….something a busy colorist needs.. The high-lift blond kit is the number 1 selling hair color BY FAR on Killer Strands - - - of all the colors we carry, so that is why I have done this . . . I know this bores the brunettes . . . but have a heart for your fellow platinum-haired vixens! Apparently we have a lot of blonds out there, and I just thought it was here in California that people liked to adorn those golden locks . . . but I guess not.
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Now with every single one of my strand tests I processed them for a minimum of 75-90 minutes, and I use a plastic cap over them to keep warmth “in” as I do on my clients. I know my Stylists who use hair dryers but that is where the hair receives its most damage… if you use the body’s own warmth and perform the process in a warm room - - the health of the hair stays INTACT.IMG_1278
The other 2 brands so far that I want to recommend are Schwarzkopf who’s 12.0 N which is a neutral . . and its /1 series is Lavender based Ash I was just thrilled to find out as well. Now Schwarzkopf was a brand we used way back at Sassoon but it was bought out by an American company so I lost interest in it - - quite a while ago. But, remembering back, yes, we all liked the high-lifts made by them a way back when……….. Something interesting to you . . . Schwarzkopf is the company that developed VANISH, a long long LOOOOOOOONG time ago when it was called MODULAT. So I was glued to this company via Modulat for years.. Then the owner sold Modulat off - the patent and the whole shebang for millions… But anyway…. what I have discovered is Schwatrzkopf’s 12.1 ASH is the single best HIGH-Lift on its own. No booster. So the replacement for Renbow’s 100A {our number 1 selling color ( by a LOT= btw) } is Schwarzkopf's 12.1. Now they also make a booster . . . which they call a Blonding “Extract” . . . which can be added. I haven’t even tried it yet, as I didn’t see a need to the 12.1 A …..maybe a tad with 12.0 N…and the 12.4 B (Beige) . . . they were all gorgeous without a booster. But for those of you with a need for more lift, I will definitely carry the Blonding EXTRACT – Schwatrzkopf.
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Then the 3rd high lift that was yummy was MATRIX’s ( which surprised me) but then I remembered that all the girls that worked in the old Salon with me used this one particular High-lift


by Matrix called UL-PA . Ultra Lift Pearl Ash. . . . and it was sold out at both of the supply houses I tried to get it at. . . which now shows me that an awful lot of Colorists must use it. I did not notice a booster with Matrix, but again - - the color was so perfect I couldn’t think of why I would need one. . . . but will carry that as well. So watch for that in the near future. I truly cannot see why any of the boosters can’t be interchanged with any brand. I have not tested that theory, but will. . . .coming up. You know science formulas' and theories that are used with “hair color are plain and simple and just not that complicated so there is pretty much no reason it shouldn’t work. IMG_1292         
In addition to high-lifts and lighteners, with losing the Renbow toners ( which I have never found anything even remotely close) I plan to put together a base line of opaque toners course and then demonstrate to you how to change the colors of the toners in order to reach soft pastels. It really is not that hard. Just comes with experience….which luckily YOU don’t need. . . because I have it - - - for you!
Matrix brought back its line of 4 opaque toners for blond’s I used to use and love so that is a great start.. I will also demonstrate the fairly simple technique of making an apricot-rose toner ‘from’ these toners as a base provided there is some interest for them. Soft Silver, Soft Raspberry, Ice Blue – All coming up in the future days and weeks of the NEW HIGHLIFT series.
NEW ADDITION TO THIS POST :
Please check out the store, I have completed all the lines of testing highlifts from some 20 lines of hair color.
The absolute 1st and best blonds without the use of bleach goes to the company FRAMESI, they actually blew both Schwartzkopf and the rest of them out of the water....just read the post on the page
Killer Chemist

March 1, 2010

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow


Education of How Hair Loss Hits Women


The most common cause of hair loss in women is “androgenetic alopecia” which basically means FPHL or Female Pattern Hair Loss, the women’s version of: aging/hormones/genetics affecting hair loss. It has been fairly well established that hair loss issues between the sexes is completely different. Not only does male pattern baldness ‘reveal’ differently, scientists believe the solutions are also down a different path than women’s. The men already have a quick-fix pill that works well (Propecia), while the women still only have Minoxidil (Rogaine) as the only FDA approved drug to combat loss.
We don’t even include minoxidil in the 10,000HEADS Protocol, although clients are more than welcome to use it. Our work & research at killer strands is focused mainly on the issue of Women’s hair loss as is this blog, we do see & help men at the clinic, but our focus has been forced to narrow lately.

Killer strands would like to introduce to you a new way of understanding the female hair loss plaguing America today. By recent estimates 40 million women are suffering from one form or another of hair loss and the numbers continue to rise. In order for women to understand why the 14 steps of this program work, we have found it helps to educate and explain the “HAIR GROWTH CYCLE in a little different method, one that is clear – simple – and concise . When we take the time to explain the whole process at the clinic you can see the light bulb’s going on over heads .
Every person is born with every single hair follicle they will have for lifetime, on the body, at birth. As a tiny baby you are born with 5 million hair follicles throughout your entire body , with 1 million on the head and 100,000 on the scalp. There are 2 types of hairs within all those, vellus and terminal…vellus are the short fuzzy, soft ones that do not grow, while the “terminal” hairs are just that, terminal. Think about that, as that is what will help you understand the reason behind alopecia, the hairs on your scalp have a life-span…they sprout ,grow, shed – rest, then begin the process all over again.

Now there are technical names for all of these stages which you can see on the chart, but what is important here, is that each and every single hair on your head sprouts, grows & sheds, & rests…shedding is a mandatory part of new hair growth. A hair remains in its GROWTH phase for approx. 4 years (fluctuates by person) – at the end of the growth phase it is shed {hair fall}; three months later another grows in its place. When the hair is shed there is the period of awaiting cell regeneration … which begins another new hair… and ‘that’ is where the diminishing numbers come from and  hair loss begins.

As we age the hair that once grew for 4 years – the next time it may only grow for 3 1/2 years, the next time for 3 years and so on. Therefore, if you had 50,000 hairs growing for 4 years when you were 20 years old and then each 4-5 years the amount went down another 2-3,000...you can see fairly well how thinning happens and that when it does happen it has been happening for months that you were not even aware of.
The result: an even...all- over or “DIFFUSE” pattern of hair loss which explains WPHL or women’s pattern hair loss .
I believe that the hair SHIFT term that we coined is the result of 10 years accumulation of changes within the body (for one reason or another)resulting in a  noticeable change in a woman's hair.
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Every single hair on your head sheds, that is the completely normal process within the normal growth cycle of each and every hair. In order for a new hair to grow in the old one has to shed, so the “cycle” can continue along its merry way! Many people panic about hair shedding, 95% of the time it is within the normal range, it has just been combined with a person’s aging & hormones, so it seems more severe, which is understandable.
Compare the hair to the eyes to make it easier to understand. The eyesight of a 20 year old is at its peak, with many having 20/20 vision, move forward 20 years – and reading a menu all of a sudden becomes difficult & blurry, people panic 95% of the time its just age. Same thing with your hair, it was at its peak when you are about 20, from there it begins its retreat until one day the combination of your aging and some abnormal shedding just seems to hit you around about the same week When you are about 30, you will notice your first or second hairSHIFT. Many women are having babies around this age, and having a baby can do both make your hair thicker or make it thinner….there is just not one way it will go. If you were to implement the entire 10,000heads program, religiously you have a very good chance the hairSHIFT you have will be a ‘good” one. That is one fact we are absolutely sure of.
Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb deep in the hair follicle. The follicle is a tiny but powerful factory, which throughout many people’s lifetime hardly ever stops working. From birth to sometimes as much as a century in some people, the follicle continues to produce hairs! Each hair grows for years, it is shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry, coloured, bleached, permed…none of these treatments affects the growth of the hair in the hair bulb, even though some may radically damage the hair shaft. Finally the hair falls out, rests for a little while then produces yet another new hair! That is the HAIR GROWTH CYCLE, the cell regeneration that goes on in the hair follicle is the most prolific on the body, coming in second is the spine.
This is why you “shed”. Every single hair on your head has a life span . . . and at the end of the life span, that hair will shed. So we call that “terminal”. Many times if you have a lot of hairs on your pillow . . . or in your brush . . .or on your coat. . . . its because a number of hairs were at the end of their growth cycle and just happened to “bit-the-dust'” at the same time. Has nothing to do with hair loss.
One of the most common reasons for alarm about hair loss? Are people who rarely put a brush or comb through their hair. What? It amazes me but a lot of you will go days without using a brush or comb…certain people have the type of hair, the length of hair, or the hair style where they really don’t ‘need’ to put a brush through their hair. Then the day they do, they are alarmed at the amount of hair that comes out. Well, if it is totally normal to lose 150-200 hairs every single day . . .  ( and these are simply hairs at the end of their 3-4 year life span) accumulated over a week - - well 6 days X (times) 200 hairs = 1200 hairs and that my friends is usually when I get a client’s phone call or appt. HHHHHHHHHHHHHHelp, whats wrong with my hair?  Once this little phenomenon with the brush . . . and the ‘terminal’ hair life is explained 9 times out of 10 the solution is achieved.
KEEP A BRUSH going through those locks every day of every week of every year. I am a full believer in brushing and stimulating the scalp with a brush.
PHASES of the hair GROWTH cycle
Anagen 1000 days
Catagen 10 days
Telogen 100 days

Hair grows ½ inch per month, and faster in the Spring. I always noticed my clients hair grew faster in the month of March, so there is something to the Seasons and our growth.
Mens anagen phase is shorter than womens so genetically they are already pre-disposed to shorter hair then women.



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