April 6, 2009

About to turn into a Platinum Bombshell? Rules to Follow

There are 2 excellent methods of application. Choose 1.

As Spring comes blossoming out of the sky, requests for gwen94 blonde's and blonding come floating in the email "in" box. Most of the country. . ruffling their feathers from hibernating all winter . .begin thinking of warmth and brightness and sun. Many let their base (roots)  grow out much longer than at any other time throughout the year, but know.... its time to make that change, ever thought of going Stefani blond.... let the platinum begin. 

This technique is referred to as double process, which is deceiving and inappropriate in my book, but I suppose I cannot re-write History. The 1st process would be the bleaching, the 2nd the Toner.  . . .Toning is not a "process" its an application. But there you have anyway.
Going Platinum Blond is a statement and a mission . .  I have seen meager timid guys go from mice to men and shy submissive women turn out as dominating. Its amazing what a hair color can do to a personality.

When mixing Killerstrands Oil Bleach ... (found in Killerstrands Clinic) it may not seem like it but it is crucial that you mix in the order described.  The creme and oil should connect first. . .  mix well  . .followed by the addition of the Developer. If I for some reason forget and  begin doing it the wrong way I will stop and start over. I have tried it before and the results were NOT the same - so please remember that. You want the bleach to apply in a nice silky manner so it does not drip . . . nor is too dry - - so the moisture needs to be perfect. Following directions to a T will give you that.

The usual method of application for a full bleach out is similar to the double application method for single process color. First apply 1 inch away from scalp, then, when the mid-shaft is nearly the desired stage of lightening, apply to the scalp area.

Now here is an alternative method  . . . which when going through my old notes from the Academy, I remembered. It was refreshing enough to read, and my next bleaching will be using this method.

First , apply the bleach. . .scalp to ends . . using the parting and sectioning I have pointed out in previous posts. When the scalp area is the desired stage of lightening . .rinse and shampoo. Dry the hair with a cool dryer. Now with this method you can see where exactly the hair needs its 2nd dose of bleach and you won't have any overlapping or over-bleaching of more vulnerable areas of the hair such as over-porous end or a fine hairline
There is no more meticulous application of product than that for on-the-scalp bleaching.  The rewards for precision are even bleaching, even toning, and hair that doesn't break. Begin the application in the darkest or coarsest area of the hair. Take fine sections with your TAIL COMB. ..thin enough to see through. With re-touches, you MUST be careful of overlapping - - and its easier to just lay a line of bleach at the scalp, the lay the next section against it, rather than smearing the bleach in with fingers.

If you are lifting past yellow be patient. . .GOLD IS ALWAYS the toughest pigment color to eliminate. It will probably take longer to go from yellow to pale yellow than it took bring the natural base to yellow.


10 degrees99With double process is important. When you rinse the bleach - -  be gentle and very thorough.Lukewarm water most efficiently rinses the thick oil bleach . . .followed by a very gentle SLS-FREE Shampoo . .  another rinse and then the final smothering in Wella's "IN DEPTH". Which will completely stop any bleach from continuing to work, HOORAY!  Rinse well and towel dry the hair gently. Leaving INTENSIVE on for 30-45 minutes is always what I end up doing but it is totally optional.  INTENSIVE is a porosity treatment and there is nothing better  for lightened hair than porosity treatment. 

TONER TIME
Check your Toners Directions  most of them can be applied to damp hair or dry hair. Toners are many times an oxidative tint (need a developer) Many of the Professional hair color lines including Wella have enlisted specific colors on their chart to be made into Toners...although using a TONER made just for Toning, will have less ammonia, a lower pH, and in general will be gentler to both head and scalp. Toners only need a very low volume of developer. Purposes of toners are to conceal or beautify underlying warmth, depositing the desired hue and evening-out small defects in the bleach-out.

The lightest, most delicate toners call for a pale yellow stage of lightening. Lighten too little, leaving yellow still dominant in the hair, and the tone achieved will remain too yellowish. On the other hand, if the toner calls for a yellow stage of lightening and you over-lighten to pale yellow, there will not be enough underlying warmth in the hair to offset the artificial pigment and the hair will display too much of the toner's base color.
How the toner takes depends on the porosity of the hair . . . and guess what helps the porosity become even after all the up and downs of chemical services? ? ?  IN DEPTH . . .  that crazy inexpensive product that you may purchase in  KILLER  COLOR CLINIC  .
Killer Chemist

10 comments:

  1. dear kc
    i was wondering if you have ever heard of elumen goldwell haircolor.?
    it sounds amazing...the idea that it is temporary and acid based. would this be a good option for someone who has very porous hair?

    thank you.
    kiki

    ReplyDelete
  2. Kiki,
    I have said that for years about ELUMEN...but for some reason it has had difficulties getting developed. It came out for a few months, they had endless problems with it -- took it off the market -- did some work on it....tried again and now I think it is permanently off the market place. I just wouldn't want to try something with that many problems...
    Wella does have an acid based color as does Renbow. .. .
    try them
    KC

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  3. Killer Chemist,

    I want to start by THANKING you so much for this INCREDIBLE wealth of knowledge. I feel so FORTUNATE to have stumbled upon your site. Having said this, I am kind of in hair crisis mode and I am not sure if I can even ask about my situation in the comments or if I actually have to pay for a consult, etc.

    Here is the scoop: I am a middle school science teacher that has had my hair higlighted and someimtes highlight/lowlight for at over 10 years. NEVER would I have imagined that I would EVER take my hair into my own hands. However, being a teacher in a district that is reducing costs aka salaries at an alarming rate, I decided the budget had NO room for my 185$ salon trip every 2 - 2 1/2 months anymore. (Which is why I am not able to do the consult right now either)

    So, here is what I did to myself. I saw my mothers hair and thought it looked good. Being a science teacher, I knew in my logical brain that our "start" color was different and that this would have an effect on my final outcome. I also knew that I had about 3 inches of regrowth that is a level 7 possssibly level 6 (not completely sure, but leaning towards 7). In my logical science brain, I knew that the roots would not LIFT to the level that they needed be so that they weren't orange with a COLOR.

    So, I bought Loreal Multi-Tonal Gel Creme Permanent Color Base 2 in 1 Color and Highloghts in Creme Brulee. I know I know, not a good idea. Well, it gets WORSE. So I used the color (my hair has never see all over color only lowlights), this made me have a very warm look all over, rather bland. Then, my mother proceeded to take the WAND and PAINT my hair with random blobs of bleach. Okay, so you probably think it looks worse than it does. The worst part is that the roots came out of course a solid dark orange. So my sister and I decided to get ion 30 developer and ion lightening powder and learn to highlight on my head. Well, she and I had both had our hair foiled to high heaven so we were pretty good with the foils. We only added some on the top to try to break up the solid orange. Well, I had a bad experience about a year back when this WONDERFUL stylist overlapped the bleach on my hair on and I lost half my head of hair. So, needless to say, we didn't leave the bleach on long and we came nowhere near the roots.

    So I go back to school today and I had a student in EVERY class period say, oh wow, you did your hair, it's kind of orange. GOTTA LOVE MIDDLE SCHOOL KIDS! So I really NEED some good advice.

    I need to get rid of the orange and pronto!

    I went to Sally's immediately after school and bought the shimmer lights shampoo and conditioner (not sure if this will help my problem)

    I also bought Wella Toner T10 Ivory Lady. I read that this base may help off set the orange. However, when I look over the color wheel it almost looks like I need almost a solid blue base??? Is that right. Anyhow, I also have pictures, just not sure where to post/put them. ANy help is greatly appreciated. THANK YOU.

    Katherine

    ReplyDelete
  4. Katherine,
    I am sorry , but if I bet the rules for you it would be very unfair to so may others that have just as admirable of a job as you.

    I am certain you teach your kids that, as it is a basic, "rule of life".

    You really need to do your homework a little bit about Killer Strands .. we have a wonderful Group you can join, you can upload photos, talk about hair issues with a lot of great help being offered.

    All those products you purchase in Sallys will just make everything worse, I'm afraid. So I am hoping you can save some $$ up ..... to try to get some better products in the color Correction arena.

    There is a lot of help on this web site for your problems, but it takes some time to research and read about your particular problems......you just have to do some reading to get to it

    GL
    KC

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  5. Dear KC,

    I am going to attempt the regrowth of my platinum color using the White Genie with the Renbow 100A. The instructions say to us the same amount of white genie as peroxide used but you say only 1/4 of a packet is that for 1 tube.

    Also it says to leave it on for only 40 - 45 mins yet I find my hair is not quite ready yet at that time. Would it hurt to leave it on until it processes which would be about 1 1/2 hours to the pale butter shade or should I rinse it off at 40 mins and reapply a new batch.

    Also my mum has the same platinum blonde color and her roots are 'grey' white with some black hairs. Can I use the white genie also on this. In other words can I bleach naturally white hair?

    Please advise
    Anna

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  6. Hi again KC,

    I find the Thriven conditioner really revitalises my curls when I use it as a treatment. Can it be left in as a leave in conditioner?

    Anna

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  7. Hi Kc,

    I forgot to add that my regrwth hair is a level 4 so will using 1/4packet of White Genie with 1 tube Renbow color 100A and 40 Vol Devoper be enough to lift it to platinum or should I use more white genie.

    Anna

    ReplyDelete
  8. Anna,
    If you have made a purchase from me , it would be much faster for you if just email me with these questions...I've gotten busier with emails...and I have had to put them in some sort of precedence order ...product related emails come in at the TOP-OF-THE-LIST ! So you would get a quick answer...
    I need to ask you some more questions to give you the proper answer. . . please email me directly so I can help you get this solved. Killerstrands@gmail.com
    Thanx
    KC

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hi kc,

    I was wondering what you think about Ojon shampoo??

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thankyou for your v. v. good blog-it cuts alot of crap out.I wasn`t sure where to ask a question so i hope you don`t mind me asking here-could you do the two step process in one go-i`m thinking of bleach, colour and developer? or is this a no-no!
    Many Thanks!

    ReplyDelete

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