June 30, 2008

The 10 Habits that will Destroy Your Hair - Yes, AGAIN !

You Want Hair Like This ? ? ?
 




Then You Must NOT practice any of these habits...they are all proven hair destroyers!
 



              Any Questions ? ? ? ?

killer chemist

June 23, 2008

Win Cool Prizes for Home Hair Color Contest

Crib Colorist = Home Hair Colorist


Crib Colorist Award = Win Cool Prize for Diary of Your Home Hair Color Adventure
















June 20, 2008

DEMO - How To Go From Platinum to Brown Slowly > "Tint Back'' to Natural - 2 stages



Tint Back to Natural – 2 stage Process - STAGE 2








Base + Slices Technique








This will be my last “re-run”: repeating what I have already written, I just find this is not easy for me. Having 257 ‘Posts’ under my belt, I have found that I try to write as if I was talking to you, to try to make my words sound better








That’s part of the stumbling block for good Blogs I think. Everyone wants a great writer at the helm, but if that’s what you have then that is most likely their specialty. . .”WRITING”, not beauty, or skin, or sports, or guns or hair or whatever. So I feel if you want a great informative blog, authored by a specialist in ‘whatever’ category…such as hair, make-up, skin, guns, politics, most likely they are not a Pulitzer prize winning author, most likely they are like me – because their specialty is their focus, not writing. Having never spent any time learning to write properly, is only because I have been busy learning other things along life’s path, not because I didn’t care. My salon clientele used to come to me just to listen to me talk about everything I knew about hair, I’m passionate about everything I do, so I hoped that if I mimic that experience in writing, it would not come out too objectionable…but to have to repeat it all again?…errr grumble-grumble, terribly frustrating for me. It’s almost over.


Thinking about the reasons this method is so successful for you, who want to go from blonde back to natural, or some morph of it, reminded me the reason clients like you like this method so much. You are used to the most high maintenance hair there is… a Bleach n Tone…it takes the most frequent touch-ups, toners & care. Then, to go from that to straight 1 color brown, is not interesting enough to most of you - so this intermediary version satisfies many of your urges and desires for fun and fascinating hair! This way you can plan your next color choices, some end up putting red-violet slices in the mix or copper even, which adds to that overall ‘fun and fascination’ !


Lets Begin


Tools
  • Towels

  • Plastic clips

  • Tail comb

  • Cutting comb

  • Old shirt/cape

  • 3 Plastic or glass bowls

  • Gloves

  • 3 Tint brushes

  • In-Depth – Wella Treatment

  • Shampoo

  • Detangler

  • Liquid Hair Restructurizer

  • Timer

  • Selected 3 Colors & Developers
Formulations


  • Wells Illumina 7/35+ 13 Volume

  • Blondor Crème Bleach + 10 Volume ( only applied to the new growth -- NOT the lengths)

  • Wella Illumina 8/38 + 15 Volume



Preparation

PATCH TEST

1. Perform a preliminary PATCH test, 24 hours prior to the service. Proceed only if the test is negative. If you are an allergic person I would highly encourage this step. It needs to be done with every ‘new’ brand and product you apply to you head. For instance, If you use Renbow’s Colorissimo (permanent tube color) the decide to use the RenColor (permanent bottle color) for something else, yes the patch test needs to be run again. PATCH – SKIN.

STRAND TEST

2. Perform a Preliminary STRAND Test. This should always be done as soon as you get the color you are planning to use. It’s a test run….a vision of what it will be like when finished, don’t be too lazy or think you know what results will be. Part off ½-inch square strand of hair in the lower crown – underneath – (not at the very bottom). Use a foil to hold the strip of hair and apply a small mixture of the color. Check it at 15 minutes, then at 25. Note the timing down on a card. STRAND-HAIR.



3. Remove jewelry – apply cape or these great small capes we carry ......


Mini Cape by Salonchic




Procedure



This is where you should start looking at the posted photos down the right side of this post, begin at the top and just glance at each one on the way down. Then read thru steps and compare to photos -- you are not given the capacity to line them up (with the words) – sorry.



Take “Before” “During” & “After” Photos (minimum 6), remember you can win the CRIB COLORIST AWARD, “if” you document your own hair color adventure. Hair Color needs to be from Killer Strands. Noting formula’s, techniques, trials & tribulations, ** what you learned new from Killer Strands Blog & the Killer Strands Group. Post the whole thing: story (minimum 1000 words) & pictures on a page in the group ( ask for help from T, Detour, Nik or myself if needed). When this is done YOU win the Crib Colorist award. It doesn’t need to be correct or special or anything, you just need to document it all for us to view, to win.

The PRIZE? ? ?
THE CRIB COLORIST AWARD which includes a gift from Killer Strands that includes:

  • Hair Color Key

    o Carbon Combs: 1 tail comb & 1 cutting comb

    o 4 oz. Measuring cup

    o Shampoo Sprayer for sink

    o 2 Tint bowls

    o 2 Tint brushes

    o 2 Tubes FREE COLOR - whatever your brand is !

  • 1. Part & Section hair is always the first step in all procedures & techniques. On this we will only be parting NOSE TO NECK > Part 2: Section-off the top which is the basis for all wonderful color work including ribbons, slices, the veil, almost every great technique. Sassoon does this differently than any other hair school, so pay attention. Part into even pie shapes or triangles on either side of the center part. PRACTICE THIS, because it needs to be perfect à EVEN à and not sloppy. Have you gotten your doll head yet? Get one; they have men, women + every length of hair. If enough of you get them I will take you through an elementary cutting class. Let me know.

  • 2. Fold your Foils, I’m trying to get a hold of foils I can carry for you, at a decent price. Remember a double ¼” fold at the top of one side.

  • 3. Prepare the color formulations, be all ready to go before you actually mix them up, and remember the color is best when used immediately. For this we are using 7/35 + 13Volume Wella-Illumina {or use your own color formulation at this point}. Crème Bleach (most mild there is) + 10 Volume depending on the amount of lift needed. Last, Wella Illumina 8/38 - 15Volume * * * * RETURN TOPS TO ALL DEVELOPERS * * * *. The idea here being to use 2 light brown colors to some thin slices on either side of the head/hair, to begin the re-introduction of darker colors to the hair and your vision.

  • 4. Put on Gloves, have comb, foils and bowls lined up and ready to go. Line up mirrors if your tackling this yourself. Its actually made to apply to yourself there is basically no work on the back side of the head!

  • 5. Begin on one side, hold the section of hair and take your FIRST slice of hair a super-thin slice of hair à AT AN ANGLE -- ½ inch from the front with tail comb.

  • 6. To “test” the proper angle of your section, you should stick a comb in the middle of the section back to the apex of the parting in the back.

  • 7. Press the foil down to the scalp, slip it under the slice of hair, lay the hair down, and paint on the Level 8/38 -- covering completely all the hairs. Starting with the lightest Color first, so there is not a dark stripe right at the front next to your face.

  • 8. Continue the next one leaving a ½ to ¾ inch of hair alone in between {this is very hard to say use your best judgment} some people have small heads and ¾” would be WAY too much, this all depends on the size of your head. Look to the photos to see how I did it on Molly’s head of hair. Spacing the foils according to the hair and head size.

  • 9. Alternating here with Level 8/38 ., then bleach + 10V, then Wella Illumina 7/35, bleach & 10Vol up the one side till finished. Then up the other side till finished.

  • 10. Process for 35 minutes, (this is a tough call remember when going the same color or darker – you want to add 10-15 minutes to the timing…..when going lighter you don’t) Here you are doing both at the same time! Its not a perfect world.

  • 11. Rinse the hair with lukewarm water – thoroughly – in the sink with a spray hose contraption ( I will be carrying these soon as well)

  • 12. Lightly shampoo with an SLS-FREE Shampoo, rinse again. Shake the excess water out.

  • 13. Apply Killerstrands INTENSIVE After-color treatment to mainly hair that has been colored – massaging in. Leave on for 5-20 minutes – rinse. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, this brings the pH balance back to the hair and helps with conditioning, moisturizing, re-balancing and shine.

  • 14. Towel dry, Spray with Soma SPRAY Detangler, your Detangler – Dry & Style

  • 15. Clean-up and sanitation . . . . Putting combs (not clips), bowls (not tint brushes) through a dishwasher cycle sanitizes them for your next go-round! For clips and Tint Brushes: clean and rinse with super hot water for 3-4 minutes to sanitize. For Killerstranders there is a spray disinfectant (I will carry soon) that is handy called MARVY spray disinfectant you can simply spray everything with. Cleanliness is next to Godliness and Hair OCDness !

  • 16. Jot down in your hair notebook what went down and how you would change it next time, don’t rely on your memory.

  • 17. YOU ARE FINISHED- How did you do? Take photos – post in the GROUP, everyone is anxious to know how you did

    Next time you would add more browns - different Levels and tones to add to depth and interest.











































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Killer Chemist



































June 16, 2008

DEMO of "How to Apply a "Patch Test" for Hair Color: Necessity or Waste?





Sloppy technique = Sloppy Hair

I would like you all to learn the proper - British- Boot Camp standards that I learned...it made me a better Hair Stylist/Colorist - as it will you.


Please attempt one of these, for practice and for knowledge....jot down your results and post in the GROUP.


PATCH TEST : This test is to determine, if you are allergic to the hair color you are about to use. Some may think it a waste....some may be very greatful for it. 

If you have allergies and/or sensitivities...you may want to run this test before applying every new haIR COLOR YOU TRY,  you only need a tiny bit and it only takes overnight.

When working with hair color, you will have to determine whether you have any allergies or sensitivities to the mixture. Please don’t blow this off, I know it takes an extra day…but there is a reason we do it. In the Salon I had every single person sign a questionnaire before I touched their hair, I bet 90% of you never filled out a questionnaire. I believe in rules, regulations and sensitivities…I have them. Within my questionnaire I gave them the opportunity to take the patch test, if they didn’t want to they had to sign a release. I also asked them if they were allergic to pollen, any foods or any drugs, if they answered yes and listed a row of them . . . we ran the test anyway. People are allergic to hair color, just like there are people allergic to the sun and grass, things we cannot get rid of. I did not get into this business to inflict any type of pain, and that CAN happen if precautions are not taken, its even a lot easier for you Crib Colorists to perform this and wait one day. We are starting a new hobby here – for it to fly we need to follow the pro’s rules.


Performing a PATCH Test


1. Select test area, behind the ear or on the inside of the elbow are good choices.

2. Using a mild soap, cleanse and dry an area about the size of a quarter

3. Mix a small amount of product according to the manufacturers directions

4. Apply to the test area with a sterile cotton swab

5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours

6. Examine the test area. If there are no signs of redness or irritation you can proceed with the color service.






A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates the color may be safely applied.


A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt – A positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt. If you have these symptoms, under no circumstances should you use the product that you tested. Do not panic though, there are many lines of hair color … with many different chemical bases for you to choose from.

So many hair colors these days have no ammonia (we carry 2 - Schwartzkopf's IGORA ROYAL & ESSENSITY line of hair color are both ammoni-free ), organic and so gentle it amazes me!


If you have sensitivities to foods, or plants, or anything at all this test should be run. I used to ask that question in my questionaire , therefore putting the decision in the clients head as to whether they wanted to take it or not.

June 8, 2008

Best Hair Care Book Around ( save for book)

down my fav.Philip Kingsley is an Englishman who has spent a lifetime analyzing and fixing heads of hair throughout the world. I would love to have his job. He's been around for a very long time and to tap that brain of his, divine.
Whether you consider your hair to be your crowning glory, a problem that just won't go away, or something that is going away all too fast, this book will provide you with help, reassurance and practical advice that can be put to immediate, beneficial use. I would say his main focus centers on hair loss as a result of various maladies, and how to combat that. In England they have a category of hair experts we don't acknowledge here in the States, Trichology. I considered becoming licensed and holding the certificate, but decided I would spend more time - EXPLAINING what in the world - Trichology - 'was'! I hope someday soon it crosses the pond.
Kingsley is credited with developing the statement, " Bad Hair Day" ! Which I consider ex
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If you wanted to buy one book on hair care and hair advice this would be it, in my humble opinion. I own every hair book ever printed and some that weren't printed, this is hands cellent marketing for a man that repairs bad hair ! He is a man with the right goals and vision in life, so the facts behind his studies are on the money. Worth every penny.
Maybe someday I will have my own. The outline is made.

June 7, 2008

Parting:Sectioning:Tools - Prepare to Color Yo Hair - Part #2

Captioned Slide Show -- to add to the the previous post, with additional photos - Enjoy







June 7, 2008
Scroll to bottom of page for brand new Slide Show :
Applying hair color to roots, 1 quadrant at a time

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Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better

Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
Xcellent Gray Coverage, beautiful Shine + Hair Looks Like a Million Bucks w/ Wella !

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