VLOG <> PLOG <> BLOG'S ..... of Hair Color, Cut and Styling Tricks of the KILLER CHEMIST

I am trying to turn this into a PLOG--VLOG & BLOG.......it will be an all out 'OG' session if I can ever learn all of the shit I have to....to put it together properly!

Received the mannequin heads....the million dollar hard drive Camcorder.... Tri-Pod - Software programs. . . . . yada yada....I'm having a helluva time learning how to use the camera...I've been a still photographer for many years. Was a Pro ACTION photographer for years..... so using a "moving" camera is more bizarre than I predicted.

Its just different and I am just not the type to hack it out...I'm working on the lighting...the setting...etc

I'd like to have a spot "the girls"( dollheads) and I can just set up and go quickly ...so we can show you just about everything and anything you are going to want to know...doesn't that seem cool>?

am hoping with a "visual" it will sink-in that much better for you

I'm thinking of exploring a few other angles...we shall see....

hang in there.....

I'm trying to figure the camera out as fast as possible

then I have the Editing software to decipher

I'm just not the type to throw somethin' half-assed up there.........

Patience...is a virtue

'Hair Color Knowledge' .....no where to be found on Calif. State Board Exams

California's Cosmetology Board Test is supposed to be the hardest in the country, we have 10 times the applicants of other states, therefore the test is more difficult - is what I have heard.. 

YET . . .

 

. . .there was no hair color formulating education, AT ALL!

I say this beCAUSE, so many of you end up at Killerstrands Hair looking to take control over your own hair's health and hair color, which I really respect.

Remember all of these formula's are for VIRGIN HAIR, which is a very VERY rare person nowadays!

 Here is an example of LIFTING in the LEVEL System (virgin hair):

Your own natural virgin color hair is a LEVEL 4
You would like to be a "desired" LEVEL 9 ( I desire to be a Level 9 is one way of putting it)
What do you come up with?

This is where the BOXED kits do not work ( although they don't tell you that, they make you think it will.....) and many of you end up with trashed color.  Your hair just did not get light enough and if it did ...it was a hideous shade of orange-y blond, & it sounds like 9 out of 10 of you end up putting brown back on top of it.....For what ends up taking a couple years of growing out to recover from (got that one right didn't I !!?!)
OK. Lets go over it.

• Not all requests can be met EXACTLY as asked, which is not made clear to those of you that cannot afford a high dollar Colorist to tell you the honest truth.  Unfortunately many Stylists with not a lot of experience in color will be just as bad as if you ( with none of this guidance) were doing it...and I have met many clients who understand color better than many stylists I've met over the years. Knowing how to color hair is not necessary to pass the STATE BOARD of Cosmetology Test, which always blew me away. There is just something not right about a Board that oversees the entire world of Hair and doesn't require the new members to learn color. The whole Theory and evolution of hair color is young but its not THAT young. I could write a 100 page book on it just by using this blog.

 

• Anyway here is the explanation of that problem....

Preferred level of color...................level 9 Blond
Natural level of color (subtract).......Level 4 Brown
Difference..........................................= 5 Levels

Preferred level of Color..................Level 9 Blond
Difference ( add)............................... + 5 Levels
Level to Use................................Level 14 Blond

There is NO LEVEL 14.... the levels only go to 12.

There are limitations as to what can be accomplished as a Crib Colorist and the most important fact that you can come to terms with, if this type of Coloring maneuver is 'what-you-want' 

 See why sometimes hair color leaves you at some strange orange/yellow stage? The Boxed Kits do not tell you this...or warn you of this. I have so many people contact me about this type of problem...it was one of the many inspirations for me to start this Blog.

This is a common problem that needs to be brought up, so you all will understand. As a busy Colorist, we use many solutions to a problem like this, and offer them all to the client to come to a safe, and sane solution.

5 levels is a lot of lift and you just cannot get that many levels of Lift from any product but Bleach....even high lift blondes only lift 3 levels and for now that is the most powerful "TINT" available.

The Newest Designer Drug > The " FLAT IRON "

Bottle the Blow

Trash the ...'-tini's '

Hang-up the Hooka. . .

Today's Tweeners are on a rampage and it's a bit more than 'hair raising' to say the least.

If nothing is done and soon,the last thing they will have left

is not their hair . . .

There is a new drug out there,

that is invading the lives of our daughters, girlfriends, sisters, nieces and for me: clients.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug

( clarification : FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as an electrical hair

"straightener" within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That is a very big Statement: I do realize.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs", we have abusers,addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems.

HAIR LOSS & Irreparable hair damage being the most poignant.

ts gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

I call it FIA...or Flat Iron Addiction.

So lets see who will get this important story out there.

I get a minimum of 12 letters every single day from girls that "cannot figure out why all their hair is breaking off ".. . . The weird part is they do not even put it together. . . the flat ironing and the breakage. But I guess a good addict doesn't know that next pipe hit is bad for them either. Part of my fascination comes from the amount of time they spend doing this one thing. Finally one 17 year old client who's hair went from absolutely demolished and breaking off to silky and thick in the course of only 60 days with 10,000HEADS....I was able to ask and get a decent response,

"how much time were you spending flat ironing?"

"4-5 hours she figured - it IS summer !"

I am not exaggerating here...... I asked her what she does with her time now....

She got a Job.

Please people we need to wake up to this little whirlwind we are all missing.

I see this as an OCD type of a problem . . . but I am not a therapist and that is not my expertise, I am merely here to point out the issue, so we can all start to watch for it.

For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.
Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone.

Please know I am not trying to be a nag. Remember my Tag Line,

"I care about your hair" and I do ...truly care.

Yesterday I had one of my old regular clients stop by, her hair was horrendous.Just horrendous. I take this hair thing so serious that it makes me ill.. for the remainder of the day when I see someone in clinic with hair like this. I know its only going to get worse unless she changes a few things and fast. The really sad part? She is 26. 10 years ago this was not happening and especially not at that age.

I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

The mission of my 3 Blogs is to share and relay the information of one of the top Hair Experts in the country with the public in 2 main areas. My goal is to reach most of America and share with them the knowledge of how to color their hair . . .just the same as if they were "baking a cake". There has never been any guidance or release of knowledge or book guiding women of America on how to care for the color of their hair. Not everyone has access to $250. highlights and I propose to change that and make thorough, accurate hair color advice and education available to those who want to learn.

Hair Color Kits Destroy hair, there is no way they can put in one box kit the proper ingredients. Hair Color is a science and chemistry just like cooking is. It is no harder than cooking,...it just has never been taught or a book written and produced for the women and men of America. If one Hair color book was written with the basic rules and laws included there would be thousands of women able to color their hair at home - correctly. (There are plenty of women that will still want to have a Colorist do it for them and plenty of tricks only they can do... just like a master Chef.)

But the 'basics of hair coloring just like "cooking" should be made available to the general public of America.

My last goal with the blogs will be to attempt to solve, slow down or even stop all the Hair loss I see running rampant in this country. I've always seen it in men....but never this young and this pronounced. The amount of women popping up with it now...would blow every single person reading this away. I see it everyday and still can not and WILL NOT get "used to it"..especially when I know I can make a difference.

Killer Chemist

Back to the Good Ole Days of Blow Drying ! . Attention FIA (Flat Iron Abusers)

We are going to take a small DETOUR for a Post here and layout one of the most neglected yet important 10 Steps you've paid attention to in a long time.

Blow Drying.

I am starting to consider the Flat Iron a Drug. ( clarification...FLAT IRON is the proper term for what many refer to as "straighteners"...within the professional world of hair: Flat Iron is the Proper Term)

That's a big statement I know.

With the tremendous surge in Flat Iron Sales in the past couple years, as is with all new "wonder drugs" , we have abusers and addicts and a whole new crop of wild and out-of-control problems. HAIR LOSS being the most poignant. Its gotten to such a degree that I am about to call a couple magazines as I cannot reach the people that need to be reached in the infancy of this blog and I feel it that important to our youth.

So lets see who will get this important story out there. For my contribution.... I am encouraging all of you to go back to the good ole blow dryer and brush.... and no need to do it every day....a couple days a week will be just fine.

Please, write me if you have concerns at all in this arena...for anyone . . . Please know I am not trying to be a nag.

Promise.

I had an old client pop in yesterday, 26 years old and her hair..... it was horrendous. I am just very conerned about your hair and especially being as she IS ONLY 26....I had to put her on the most strictest of programs and she was upset...and now I know why I haven't seen her in a while. I am merely trying to help and prevent all of you from having to go through what I see is going to be a HUGE problem very very soon.

s always...I CARE ABOUT YOUR HAIR. period.

Top 10 ways to keep blow dried hair looking shiny and healthy

10.) The finish is as important as the drying time. Seal the hair by turning the dryer on ‘cool’. Never leave the hair warm – it won’t last 10 minutes that way.

9.) If you invest in a great cut, the time you spend with the blow dryer in hand will not only be less, it will be more rewarding and the end will result will make you like a pro. Try asking for a blow dry lesson to be included with the price of the cut.

8.) When using a finishing product to hold your style – spray it on the brush first. This makes sure the hair won’t be over loaded and lets the hair shine through.

7.) Do not use a conditioner after your shampoo, that step was manufactured by the shampoo companies. The proper routine? Shampoo and only if needed….a spray leave-in detangler. A daily conditioner just weighs hair down and produces product build-up. Keep product use light, no more than 2 at every given blow dry, 1 is even better.

6.) Hair needs to be 70% dry for blow dry to begin. Shake out excess water after shower, rough dry until 2/3 of water is out. Over using a hair dryer can rob the hair of moisture, leaving hair dry & brittle.

5.) “Heat” remains the single #1 enemy to the health of hair, most don’t realize this. Blow drying ONLY until the hair is dry, alternating between hot and cool temperatures as you go through each section remains important for the health of the hair.

4.) Choose your brushes carefully, the longer the hair the bigger the brush. Axe the heat retaining brushes (metal) they add to the frizz and dryness. Boar Bristle brushes are the best, there is a reasonably priced line of brushes that will make your life easy called Marilyn, check out our website for some wonderful brushes!

3.) If you’re not using a silicone serum to coat the hair you will contribute to the frizz factor, there are a million and one out there but you must read the label…if it has alcohol in the formula you are defeating the purpose. Silicone Serums range from light to heavy!

2.) The hair dryer itself makes a real difference especially with the new IONIC and Tourmaline models on the market. IONIC utilizes ceramic technology, which will leave your hair healthy, silky with natural shine and manageability. Plus super fast drying time, the higher price tag is because they really do, work. Save your $$, ask for a birthday gift, watch for sales. It will last a couple years and the time it will cut off of your blow dry time and the shine in the finish makes it all worth while .

1.) The most important tip for blow drying? Sectioning the hair. Seem silly? Take a couple extra minutes to section hair into at least 4 sections if not 6. This will help in avoiding bumps and ridges in the end finish. Begin with the back section first, get it out of the way so you don’t get tired & give up before its done, remember the ‘back’ of your hair is what more people see than any other.

Killer bonus trick:

They have what I call “rearview” mirrors for the bathroom, Bed Bath and Beyond refers to them as a wall mount swivel mirror, they run from $29. to $99. Mount one on your bathroom wall; it will afford you the freedom of blow drying the back of your hair while also being able to look at what you are doing! It helps in the final outcome and you will find the mirror has many other uses as well (magnification mirror for eyebrow plucking, make-up application for poor sight, added bonus) .

Our First Test Case - Hair Color Example Case

OK here we go Jo..............See this hot ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ photo up there ? ? ? ? That is RIBBONS of lights.... I just call them ribbons, my clients all have ribbons...its a very common term here in weirdo California. . . . . how nice are they? cool, huh? know why? The color on this girl is our goal FOR YOU, and it isn't hard. Why is this such a great idea for your hair????

~No Regrowth ~ Contrast is dynamic ~Cheap
~Do it Yourself ~ Lasts a long-long-long time!
NOTHING LOOKS BETTER...............NOTHING.......its my fav hair technique. I'm giving to you, when the 'girls' show up...

I've come up with a new way to truly-honestly-completely display to you how to do the ribbon lights around the face that I can't wait to show you. What we want to learn is how to put a cool dozen blond ribbon lights around the face. We want them light enough...not too light....We want them scattered not one after another tightly knit...We want them Blonde not YELLOW not ORANGE..... just a beautiful light sunkissed blond.

BUT...........in order for there not be any questions I have come up with a solution before the problem arises...I ordered a few human hair mannequins..I get them from back east....I tried it on a human model........it didn't work.

Its a long stupid story, we're going with mannequins. This will rock I promise. Any day now....because I can't wait to do these with and for you. Its a breeze. Get your supplies. Be ready to go when I get the "girls"... I've given you the list.  Foils, comb, tint brush, tint bowl, yada yada, peroxide and bleach. Now, don't ditto me....as I bought a small yahoo of bleach. It is totally going to be a self sufficient - do-it-yourself whup-de-do. The one precursor here is this......IF you have never EVER colored your hair before....and have completely VIRGIN hair... AND It is a LEVEL 7,8 or 9... you can accomplish those Ribbons with a Blond highlift and/or a blond tint, which is (yes) not as damaging to the hair. 

BUT....BUT think about this.... you are putting 12 dinky little foils in your hair.... that small amount of hair color will not do enough damage to even blink at, I wouldn't bother. Just use the Ribbons of Light Kit.

 But if you really want to give it a go. 

 That's how it works.....you want to SQUASH a color in your hair color? Go across from it on the color wheel. I will throw a color wheel on the page for you to gander at. Yellow is a common mistake in hair color especially blondes, if you your hair is pulling Yellow and want to get rid of it......where do you go? Violets?

Right? Think of some of those violet rinses and shampoos you see for the Gray hair's.... see why? Gray hair has a strong tendency to pull lots of YELLOW....its your Grandma's biggest problem in life. "Yellowish - Gray hair" Lavender conditioner knocks it into next year!

Back to you....why would you think buying an ASH High Lift Blond would be my first choice for you without even knowing your hair color? (I didn't ask).... ash toned high-lift blond 'counteracts' any REDs/ORANGE in the blond. If you're Hispanic,Asian, pretty much any ethnic base....you have tons of red/orange in your hair.....fighting it is the hardest job.

Most of people have brown or black hair, very few people have light hair. As a busy Colorist one reaches for ASH colors across the board more than any other tone. Which probably seems odd to you, I watch new Colorists they think "I want rich warm golden blond - I never want to use ash blonds....green?blues? yuk!

What you are doing is "countering" the offensive colors....and although you are not using in that one little dumb tube of Color something that says" warm golden blond " you want a warm blond you do not want an Orange blond...... I promise you...... and that is what you are creating by using the ASH blond. if you can just start absorbing this a "little" bit...you are on your way to understanding the PRO way of COLORING Hair.

Bits & Pieces : Learn To Formulate Hair Color

Here are bits and pieces to help with Tuesday's Post and your first HAIR COLOR FORMULATION problem

Try the first Formulation quiz

You are a Level 4

and you desire to be a Level 7

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

DL Hair - simply for fun

On Your Mark Get Set Color ! Begin Hair Color Formulating

Know why this is a good tool?

Once you realize what you have to consider to color your hair (correctly) it will prevent you from making mistakes (I hope).

Begin with answers to these questions:

1. What Level of color ARE YOU ?


2. What Level of color do you DESIRE to be?


3. What TONE or color do you want . . . Lordie,. . . . I forgot Tones ???! I am soooo sorry. This is so hard - every single company has different tones....but they are important. Like do you want an ASH Brown or a RED Brown > those are tones and are completely opposite colors and are very important.OK, I'll have to take one last hiccup and spend one full post on TONES /SHADES, that is the "key" to have a Chocolate Brown versus a Caramel Brown,it probably doesn't sound that different. It is. I swear. We've come this far, we must finish the race...correctly. What an Idiot. Well, now you know me...Space Case UNLIMITED. I'm sorry. Lets finish this.


4. Do you need a base ( first 1 inch of hair) Are you dealing with Grey hair (at all) how much?


5. Fine, medium or coarse hair?


6. What's the previous damage...?
7. The single most important question . . . . What type of artificial hair color do you have on your hair already? What was it and when ? Be completely honest about this answer please.

OK...get the answers to these down. If you aren't coloring your hair now, then make-up something you want to try in the future. Color the neighbors hair. Just play around, get familiar with 'Levels'. Be able to answer the questions easily. Tomorrow I'll zip over tones and shades. . . . so we will be complete...sort of! Thank you for hanging in there.
For those of you serious about learning and practicing home HAIR COLORING The Pro way... You will want to pick a line or two of color that you will use. There is a couple ways to go... I have been scoping out what you are able to purchase without a cosmetology license...its a whole different world. I have put the public lines of hair color thru a number of tests and I cannot find one that I would recommend - therefore I have made available to you the professional lines of hair color that will knock your socks off. Just send the store an email with ORDER in the Subject and I will get back to you Killerstrands@gmail.com.

The idea is to get AWAY from using a kit that only has ONE Volume of developer in the box. You need much more leeway in deciding which Volume of developer to use on your hair.

If a

• - - Red head
• - - a Blonde and a
• - - African American (black hair)

all go into a store to purchase a box of color to become a LEVEL 6 chocolate brunette - those boxed kits will lead you to believe that all 3 of you can purchase the same box to get that color. I hope you can see - simply from common sense that would not be true.
As a Top Colorist in LA I want you to know if everyone in those 3 groups - purchases that box of Color to become a Level 6 chocolate Brown.... NONE OF THEM will get the right result. Did you notice which category I left out?
Brunettes.
That is the only group that I could guess "might" get good results.

It has to do with which VOLUME of developer is IN that box.... and all the variables I have reviewed and will review with you - - of your hair . Its simple insane to think you can get the proper answers in 1 tiny box without considering all the variables to make a correct decision.

Coming Into The Home Stretch of Home Hair Color

Into the home stretch on the Home hair coloring series…
..just a couple small categories to brush over.
What I’ve done is take tons of info and try my hardest to condense so once into specific cases, for ex: if you are a Level 4 and you want to be a level 7 what is the procedure, I will be able to refer to many referenced points in hopes of clarifying . I want everyone out there to have the tools & knowledge to "formulate your own hair color" as easy as you would bake a cake.
Know what?...that is basically what it is!


Lately there are many rifts going around the hair color industry aimed at the consumer about hair color “ammonia” content. There is one line of color proclaiming they are the new wonder color because they do not use ammonia in their line of hair color. Yes, of course...there are people allergic to ammonia, but there are people allergic to the sun…does that mean we should get rid of it? Try not to prescribed to blanket statements like that, they are a marketing tools  to ''sell'' - period.
The line of color I am referring to is made by the “CHI” company…sound familiar? Yep the - Flat Iron -dash- BioSilk -dash- everything –under-the-sun company from Texas. What consumer knows what ammonia does or does not do in hair color or hair, most consumers think of ammonia as something in window cleaner. Ammonia opens the cuticle on a hair strand which enables the color to go INTO the strand. That is what one needs in trying to change hair color, why wouldn’t you want it? If you don’t want certain things that chemicals do then one should just eliminate the entire process -- period. Don’t spend time trying to wiggle around them and end up doing the complete wrong thing to your hair. That’s what happens all the time, I run into it constantly.

CHI should not be making Hair Color or Flat Irons….I firmly believe in sticking to what you are good at. After BIO Silk they tried to go into shampoo’s conditioners, and failed at them…they sure do not learn. 3 of the best hair color manufacturers in the world are WELLA , FRAMESI, & RENBOW. What else do these companies make? NOTHING. Hair Color and everything around & for hair color. They come up with new color and new technologies for existing hair colors as a good company should – all facets of business should operate that way.

The Hairy Little Things

There are some little things that in preparation I may have skipped over that I feel must, at least, be mentioned.

I know, as I am sure you do ( by now) that writing is not my thing.
I've been reading a book, but with the 3 blogs to stay up on I barely have time to actually "learn", either that or I am too damn old!

I have just found a website that does a wonderful job of organizing many of the basics I have skimmed over in this series and feel you could benefit greatly from . In my attempt to be as brief as possible, I fear I have left out small nuggets of pertinent information. Now The deal is {as is with anyone that attempts to teach hair color} they do not understand hair color "Formulation" so there needs to be a Red Flag when getting to the part of actually coloring your hair.
Color Formulation is the key to beautiful hair color.

This site recommends using "Kits" which is the absolute 100% wrong thing to use.
Hair Color Kits should be Banned - Burned and Bombed, they are job security for hair stylists and in no way can work properly except on a tiny % of the popluation.

It makes me wonder who is actually backing someone that makes such an idiotic statement. If they truly knew their stuff they would not tell anyone to use boxed hair color kits, chemically / theoretically and logically they make absolutely no sense. So as long as you can remember that when reading the summaries, you will be OK.
The reason I feel it worth it to recommend? They have listed and named off almost all the...little... preliminary preparations I can think of. So read everything leading up to "coloring the hair". If you are one of the daily readers of this Blog then you are dedicated to learning about the professional way to color your hair. Coloring your hair like the top Colorists in the country, something myself and a few of my associates said we would write about in another 20 years . . . not now. So absorb it and ask any questions you want /need to.

here is that website: http://www.soyouwanna.com/site/syws/dyehair/dyehairfull.html

Blue Blonde

Both - were bleached to a pale yellow stage

> a Soft Blue and a Vivid Blue semi permanent color - put on top - for 30 minutes

Life Is A Bleach ! Enjoying Blonds and Experiencing Lighteners

This is how you play with TONERS, my passion. The 3 gentlemen bleached to pale yellow... toned by "muting" down vivid CRAZY COLORS.

All dark haired women lighten to a pale yellow level and toned.

Beige Toner

Platinum Toner

I added quite a bit to yesterdays post... be sure to review it. At this point I feel its necessary to let you see what bleach and what lighteners can do.There is a tremendous amount of animosity to the word "bleach" out there in the non-professional hair world.When I try to remember back before I knew all of this, I am sure I had the same feelings .

"Bleach" makes you think of that hideous smelling liquid you throw in with clothing + the washing machine... or the "bleach" in many of today's Cleaners...which is strong and chokes you if your sensitive in the least.

Try to dump that tendency to relate hair bleach to clothing bleach....they are so totally different...... do you know that when I hear I will be doing a bleaching for the day ( they just don't happen as often as I wish - and never have) . . . that one piece of news will turn my whole day into a joyful...skip to my Lou day . . I am on top of the world...because I know that I will be soon in my element....Turning hair from one color to the opposite is very satisfying...to ALL COLORISTS...because it is a difficult procedure and to master it and nail it every time is fulfilling and fun.

So when I hear the hesitation in the publics' voice about hair bleaching and lightening.....just know that when it is done correctly you too can look like Gwen Stefani for years & years AND YEARS . . .once you master the art of the HOME HAIR COLORIST SERIES by the killer chemist.

Learn to LOVE LIGHTENING

LOVE THE REACH FOR BLEACH

Hair Color Toys. . . I Mean Tools

You will need everything displayed on this page to do Home Hair Coloring . . .The "bottle" method does not work with the consistency of the newer hair colors..but that's OK the newer colors are thicker and heavier which translates into richer bolder colors that last longer and are much more vivid.

foil : a small roll will be $4 or $5.00,

latex gloves - you can buy them single-y from behind the counter.

pro Large Hair Clips

Tint Brush

Timer - important

Measuring Cup for Peroxide - also important

Developer, Developer, Oh Which Developer Shall We Use???

TEXTURE

Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

                        Therefore............
FINE HAIR: takes color faster
MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 













DENSITYAnother aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'proper coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. But dense hair needs a brush ALWAYS!. You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest if you do have super dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible.



POROSITY
Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....


low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

OK... that is now every little tiny bit of info that I was going to have to mention or bring up...in order to explain to explain the world of professional Hair color. Hallelujah!
Whoops it just hit me............
one more day of this.....I need to go Over lighteners.....lighteners such as BLEACH and High Lift Blondes. I love bleaches...as a colourist...I look for the tools that create the most radical change in the hair....that take the hair from black to WHITE.....or from white to black...because to accomplish that well can only be done by handful of people. Its a terrific sense of accomplishment to be the tops in your field.


So stay tuned...I may finish this off today or bounce back to Frizz-FREE FRIDAY....