First we will learn the manner in which the State Boards of Cosmetology require this technique be accomplished. Yes, each state may have little variances from this exact description....but the California State Board is "supposedly" the toughest in the USA. We have some absurd amount of hair stylists here - over 100,000 - is the figure I'm pretty sure I remember hearing, so they try to keep the standards up.
It is my opinion, after running this Blog/Group and Store for 5 years, that this battery of test include NOTHING in how to formulate hair color. I mean, that should be the number 1 thing they teach them (in my opinion). So I don't put a whole lot of stake in their Tests and the Hair Stylists that become licensed any longer.
Implements and Materials
- plastic clips (not metal - bleach & metal do not go together)
- tint cape
- plastic tint bowl
- finishing rinse (Intensive)
- note card - for recording times/results
- tint brush
- protective cream
- Perform a preliminary Patch Test, 24 hours prior to Lightening procedure. ( See its required by law !)
- Perform a Strand Test ( this is the best advice the State Board has ever come up with)
- Apply Protective (Barrier ) Cream around hairline and over the ears
- Record the results from both Tests and log on computer as well.
- Divide hair into 4 sections
- Put on protective gloves
- Prepare the lightening formula you are using for this procedure, which in real-life would be the Oil-Lightening Kits found in the store http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kit
- Apply the lightener. Begin the application where the hair seems the resistant, which would be in the back quadrants. First outline the quadrants with the lightener, moving quickly, proceed by starting with 1/2" OFF-OF-THE-SCALP and then along the parting and up "to" but not through the ends. The ends have nothing on them - Zippo ! Apply the lightener to the top and underside of the subsection in quick, rhythmic movements.
- Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parts to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair. Complete all four sections in this manner.
- Continue to apply lightener, double check the application, adding more lightener where needed. Do NOT comb lightener through the hair. Keep the lightener moist throughout the application by reapplying as the mixture dries. Many Stylists don't understand that concept, but, Lighteners dry out very easily -so using more developer help keep the mixture moist....which then keeps it working steadily.
- Check for lightening action about 15 minutes before the time indicated by the preliminary Strand Test. Spray a hair strand with water and remove the lightener with a damp towel. Examine the Strand. If it is not light enough, then reapply the Lightener and continue with the application until all hair is as light as desired.
- Remove the cotton from the scalp area, prepare a fresh batch of lightener to apply to the base (scalp area) Apply the lightener to the Scalp area (NOTE: there has been NO lightener on the first 1/2" to 3/4" closest to the scalp - until this time) with a 1/4" parting. Process. According to your strand Test, if needed apply whatever is needed to the ends to bring all 3 area's of the length of the hair to the same color.
- Rinse the hair thoroughly with lukewarm water , many people will have a tender scalp after this procedure so go forward carefully . . be gentle and using cool water to help soothe the scalp and hair. Use a gentle sulfate-free shampoo and perform a light and quick shampoo. Rinsing thoroughly. Apply a pH balancer (Intensive - which uses many oils and plant extracts to calm the hair and scalp after that procedure is perfect - athough it is not mentioned in the State Board Description of this procedure.)
- Neutralize the alkalinity of the hair (by using INTENSIVE - OOPS !) Then use THRIVEN ...overnight ........creates both a healed scalp and hair color.
- Towel-Dry the hair, or dry it completely under a cool dryer. If you must style and go.
- Examine the scalp for any abrasions. Analyze the condition of the hair.
- Proceed with a Toner application if desired, needed or wanted !
- Perform clean-up of entire area and check to be sure client is clean and perfect !
Now, I will be back to explain How to Lighten Tinted Hair in a day or 2.
Plus all about Toners and any other subjects having to do with Blonds.