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Thursday, May 3, 2012

Chalk It Up to Hair : Semi-Permanent Color - Perfect For Tweens or YOU!





There is a new hoppin' Hair Technique that has been around the last month out here in crazy California they are referring to as: Chalking (I was hoping a new name would blossom). I tapped dance around the idea of carrying the Chalk I found to be the best...but there are already a million and one online stores carrying it. Some of these hair fads come and go so fast here in California - the feathers were in and out in 30 days I swear. ...I don't know what happens in the rest of the country. Please..........enlighten me.

What I did was find the chalk that works the best. This brand has 442 different colors and each stick is less than $6.00 ! I put together a kit that makes this particular chalk work to the optimum - we tried it with and without and I promise, the kit is not a waste....it includes my Instruction Sheet of how to apply so you look cool and not like you just missed the chalk board !
  •  CHALK-IT-UP KIT

  • Malibu2000 Color Prep treatment packet - preps hair for brilliant color
  • 2 prs Gloves
  • Teasing brush - there is a trick to making the transfer from one color to the next is smooth
  • Setting Spray: This "sets" the Chalk in the hair and keeps it as brilliant of a color as you originally chose
  • Shower Cap (terry cloth inside)
The Chalk-it-Up Kit : $19.85

Finally I can get some of you to go a full week in between shampoos, because as soon as you have this in your hair you will be running from the shower .
As you can see below the Sennelier brand of pastel chalk is the dynamite one... NOT oil chalk.....that is a big "no-no" so careful on that one.
Sennelier Brand of Pastel Chalks ONLY
 
  

It looks sooooooo much fun, I cannot see why EVERYONE can't try it . . . bring out that artist in everyone of you.................and enjoy.

Killer Chemist 
The Bleaching series continues, with the next post...

Monday, April 30, 2012

Blonde, James Blonde - Blonde is a Science - its Not Guesswork

I’m Furious w/ Gwen Stefani – James Blonde Series #5

Lately, Gwen Stefani has had commercials running swearing she lightens her hair at home with some fricken’ L’Oreal box-o-crap. There are very distinct ‘laws’ against that type of advertising in our country and the Hair business is not immune from them, I wish someone had the (b)alls to fight the ‘false advertising’ aspect. I know – that is not what she uses. She wears a wig in the commercial, and the one and only reason I care is because I want “YOU” the consumer and hair aficionado not to follow in her footsteps. If you do you will NOT end up with her hair color, I promise you. When I began this Blog 5 years ago, I had a completely different take on the whole idea of commercials – I know they are illusions – I worked on dozens of them, my daughter works on hundreds of them. But for me… 5 years later and thousands of tearful emails from you – I’ve learned my lesson to guide you more than let you think the advertisements are authentic.

Lets say we took 20 people – all 20 of them wanting Gwen’s gorgeous hair color – 19 of them will have horrific results – that 1 that is left began as a VIRGIN Level 8/9 to begin with, had NO prior color on her hair and I promise you she had the luck-of-the-Gods at her back. There is a science to the art of lightening hair, it is not guesswork, I promise every single one of you.
Normally, I would not bring the false advertising to YOU, which only gives it MORE publicity….but she herself … busted her own deception to you the unsuspecting public. Play both . . . see if you can see what I am referring to. But, PLEASE – PLEASE do not run out and purchase this product because it is on my Blog it is here to show what NOT TO DO.







In the 2nd Video, is the final commercial. It’s a wig. I’ve done commercials like this, I’ve used wigs. We all do it. I am guilty as well. I never knew what damage it was doing, until I jumped the fence, and came to the side of the consumer. I am happier here. It’s a wig. I am certain the way around the lie is:she would claim she uses the color on “her wigs”…. like so many rock stars she has an entire room devoted to her wigs/hairpieces. How do you feel about that ? ?
Remember, when someone is worth millions, the very last thing they will do is send their assistant to CVS / Target to buy a box of hair color. IT JUST NEVER HAPPENS. Please don’t fall for it. I hope to explain this week all about going Platinum – and why this could not be the case: Gwen Stefani ‘leads’ you to believe..
Many people think the Art of hair color is guesswork…I’m here to tell you: it is not. What do you think happens if a ‘virgin’ redhead, a medium blond, a light blond, a brunette, dark brown and the most common color in the world: Black haired person runs into Wal-Mart and purchases the same Platinum box hair color? Each person will have a different result…and as I said only 1 will be OK. The rest will come to this web site or the local Hair Colorist in tears looking for help in covering up the disaster. Terrible…..don’t you think?

The Science of going Blond

I know that we all wish the rules for hair coloring were : just apply and “POOF” it was the exact color you desired….but unfortunately they are not. There are a set of rules to go from point A to Point B….so choose the set that apply to YOU & never lose them.
Platinum Hair
If you have previous hair color on your hair …….you must follow 1 set of rules.
If you have previous hair color on your hair and the color is a Level 8 or lower ……. you will follow another set.
If you have previous hair color on your hair and it is a Level 8 or higher – you would follow yet another set of rules.
There are 4 classifications of lighteners:
  1. Powder Lightener
  2. Cream Lightener
  3. Oil-Bleach Kit Lightener
  4. Hair Color (Tint)
All 4 are useful for specific techniques..so one cannot say one is better than the other…that is not how it works.

Powder Lighteners are used primarily for ‘off-the-scalp’ applications – I would say right now in todays Salons across the country – is the number 1 lightener in use. It never was for me, because I spent a lifetime of trying to talk people down from the whole “highlighting” look….there are many other techniques to use besides that one. Powder lighteners are the quickest of all lighteners – which is why Stylists like it. The more people getting foils in one day the better. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-powder

Cream Lighteners are used for more ‘control’. They don’t drip, they are infused with oils and conditioners, they work a little bit slower, but I never worry about speed. You may use foils if you want to hurry the processing time up, the heat generated by foils (is why we use them) .http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-cream

Oil-Bleach Lighteners: are the only one used for on-the-scalp. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kit

High-lift Colors or Level 8–9-10-11 & 12 : in a professional line of color are more for a subtle blonding effect. Remember, these are used to lighten and are gorgeous but their effectiveness really only works on hair that is virgin (no color). Many times that is why they cannot being used. If you have virgin hair, I always encourage these first.
More in depth blonding advice this week. Stay tuned !  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color




Killer Chemist

Friday, April 27, 2012

Strand Lightener Re-Touch - James Blond Series #4

Once you have lightened your hair significantly, many do not think of the future of that step. It can be overwhelming to some, and actually exciting to others.

 As part of being a great Hair Stylist I always felt that it was MY duty to think about what each client would do "in the future. As Crib Colorist, you all MUST be that person to yourself. Do not just blindly decide one day to go buy a box of hair color that says it is Gwen Stefani's Platinum. As much as I used to admire Stefani, lately I cringe when I see evidence she has signed with L'Oreal and "claims" she got her hair color from the company of the same name. It is completely and utterly impossible. But, she 'sold-out' -- she wears a wig in the commercial, that wig is tinted with that horrible Color-in-a-Box crap she is promoting. I would bet big....no huge.........money on that fact. I need to stop doing that, back to the topic.
When thinking about the future as you decide to lighten your hair, remember this is where the term "High Maintenance" began.

Depending on your Virgin Hair Color  get set for some dark roots to begin growing in round about the beginning of the 3rd week. For those starlets whose hair color I took care of we would re-touch approx. every 14-16 days to keep it fresh all the time. I have learned that frequent re-touching should NOT be done by Crib Colorists. Why? Close care needs to be taken that NO overlapping takes place, and it cannot be done on oneself. This piece of advice varies from what I recommended at the beginning of this Blog. I have realized many of the standards I had for myself as a busy Malibu Colorist, just don't work for Crib Colorists. The soonest I would recommend would be at 4 weeks....for general public I don't think anyone came to me for lightening re-touch before 4 weeks. I know it seems weird, but the rules we have for Celeb's are - in fact - just for them.

When you re-touch lightened hair (of any type) care must be taken to only apply the new color to the NEW growth . This is where a Cream Lightener really shines as a product, of course, only if you have Level 11 or 12 platinum Blonde.  The consistency of the Cream Lightener (Framesi or X-Factor) http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-cream    is such that it PREVENTS overlapping. Remember my little rule that I repeat over and over for 5 years now : Use the Right Tool for the job !  With the lightened re-touch in Level 11 or 12 :
  • Cream Lightener and 20Volume (no higher) is your option - process 30-55 minutes checking at 30 and again every 10 til desired result
For those of you that choose the lower blondes = level 8-9-10 ... Use a color higher than the Level you wish to become .......apply with 40 Volume apply to the regrowth exclusively  . Process for 75 minutes with low heat from a Diffused hair Dryer !
Another superb blond in the X-Factor line I have not talked about, is 11.20 - Level 11 colors are usually very interesting and beautiful. Try one. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color


hope -that-helps
hth
Killer Chemist  or 
KC

Ever heard of this?

Ever heard of this?