Hi-Ho Silver! Covering Gray Hair on Blondes...#3

#3 in the:  Blonde, James Blonde series. This is a little talked about subject but an important one. Some people choose to go 100% gray and they look nice in it, but as a general rule I never recommend someone try it. Just as make-up improves almost anyone's appearance, so does coloring the gray. Gray hair lacks depth and warmth, which is what needs to be replaced in order for the hair to look perfect.

Now, remember that it is the percentage of gray that dictates the exact formula one uses on gray hair. One must get past the resistant outer layer of Gray hair in order o deposit which ever color one chooses. 

There are 2 ways to go with Blonding and Gray hair.....one is probably less popular than the other... not many's choice. 

1. You CAN cover gray by going platinum and using an Oil-Bleach Kit  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kits-on-the-scalp-application method, which will get you the Gwen Stefani/Marilyn Monroe look, but be sure of your coloring and the commitent that comes with this choice ... OR
2. Using Medium color blond's say Level 8 are actually the best for covering gray than the lighter choices. 

Anything Lighter than a Level 8 is made to "LIFT" and what you are looking for is "deposit" when covering gray. Make Sense?  Pale blonde's just don't have the pigment necessary to replace missing depth and really apply coverage. Those lighter blond's can be used when you first begin noticing grays for blending but that is about all.

Something I tell Every One Who Has Gray & Is Navigating Through Their Options?  The Closest Color To Gray is Blonde so Going Blonde is an Excellent Option

What you won't want to use any higher than 20Volume, because again....you are looking for coverage - the higher Volumes create LIFT more than deposit....so always stick to 20.

A couple of Blond formulas from our permanent line of Color  that both cover well, you might want to try or run Strand Tests on are as follows:

> 8.0 + 8.3

> 8.0 + 8.10

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color

If you would like the exact percentages of each, please write in the percentage of gray - when you place your order. There is a "Notes" section and we welcome input about your order.


KillerChemist

#2) Blonde, James Blonde - Level 8 Blonde–More Amazing Than You Think

Covering all Aspects of Going Lighter with Ones Hair

Now, something I am willing to bet that I have forgot to discuss through my many posts on Blonding, is that you do not always need to go to for the Blast-To-The Past LIGHT-AS-LIGHT-BLOND AS WE CAN possibly go – route. I believe I have done that mainly because if you can get ‘that’ blond, the rest is easy. But, that is not how I should approach it    - there are many shades of beautiful blonde from Level 7 to Platinum that I am forgetting!…and many times platinum should not be your choice, it really shouldn’t. I’m going to tell you a rule that the Head Colorist for Sassoon gave me many years ago…(even though because of Hair Shows she did not follow it) but many of you should : Try to stay within 2-3 levels of your Virgin Level.

Consider going Level 8 Blond (below) or level 9….both are so awesome I swear to you. Plus many of you that are the most popular VIRGIN Level ( at least in Southern California) : Level 7 wouldn’t have far to travel. I will never stop saying it but STRAND TEST – STRAND TEST. The formula for that would be to use X.Factor 10.20 + 30 or 40 Volume  - - it depends on your porosity .http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color  Porosity is the key to how high your hair will LIFT. I can take 6 people with Level 7 hair  - -  use this formula and it will come out amazing on 2. Why? Those 2 will have had the Color Prep packs, have healthy hair, and their porosity will be just so!                                                                                                                            

When going blond, it always nice if you can have at least a couple blonde tones on the head as opposed to one. Nothing tricky needs to be done. I am going to start trying to teach on a more mellow level. More practical for home Colorists….no more using 4 colors . I have been running tests with our hair color line and had excellent results with 1 or 2 different colors. So THINK SIMPLE Boys and Girls ! Trying to get everyone to do foil-work, and various tricky color techniques at home is ridiculous and I apologize for not realizing this sooner. I want to begin suggesting formulas – SIMPLE formulas

Now if you are thinking about going blonde. . . hope for many of these things:

• your hair must not have any old color on it………if it does  - - it must come off (Vanish) – all the way off
• Porosity Normal
• level 7 or lighter Virgin hair
• STRAND TEST – STRAND TEST. a couple small little wisps of testing can truly save your entire head of hair from damage.

From here on out (and now that I am one of you, a Crib colorist as well) I will be approaching my educating from a more practical approach. How you will receive the coolest hair color, with the easiest technique possible.

Something that quickly comes to mind is making your fringe area (bangs for those new to my posts) 1 or 2 levels lighter or darker than the rest of the hair. Even if you don’t have a fringe, you would part away that triangle in the front and tint that a High-Lift Blond (most people love blonde framing & near their face ) Use our 12.20 + 40 Volume – which is our highest lifting high-lift blond ( violet based and is da bomb!) http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color . Or as shown in the above photo, make the triangle…I didn’t really mean this drastic of a color difference so use your imagination.

Now, for those of you with old color in it. If it does it must come out.

• the very best option for going blond is virgin hair
• consider going a Level 8 blond, one of the most gorgeous colors on Planet Earth
• Say you are a level 6 wanting to go blond, make the investment of a couple tubes of color and run some Strand Tests. If you ask for up to 10 foils, we will complimentary include them with your order !  Use 10.10 + 40 or maybe even 30Volume
• Be sure to PREP the hair correctly, it will many times move past that annoying DURP you feel is so stubborn IF you use a Malibu 2000 Packet. Purchase 2 Color Prep Malibu2000 Packets. Using one prior to applying the color and then again once you are finished – which STOPS the blonding action and therefore prevents even 1 iota of damage happening. That is the key to preventing damage while lightening.

I have realized that the reason many of you are leery of lighteners ( bleach) is because you are convinced that if that is used, your hair WILL be damaged, no matter what. I know I was a professional, but you need to know that on over 10,000 Heads of hair – there was no damage going on – I was emphatic about working solely on healthy hair and continue on that quest through Killerstrands.

People will say to me, I am a Level 4 and want to be platinum…well. if that person was in my chair, I promise you I would spend 10 minutes talking to them to see what this quest was all about…I mean that is basically black to white….Yes. it can be done….but do you really want to do that to your hair? HIGH – SKY HIGH maintenance.

So really think your next color through, color on a whim is not always the best idea.

Please I hope to get more of you on board with Killerstrands, with my new theory on a simplified way of teaching how to become a Crib Colorist.