Slices of Blond on Brown Hair 'DEMO' - "HOW -TO- DO"

 October is COLOR MONTH for Killerstrands, we have specials, DEMO's, soon we will have VIDEOS to demonstrate although I feel everyone should take a look at this version of "Slices" so you understand what a SLICE is compared to a HIGHLIGHT! Now, the way they are done in this DEMO is not how I would suggest doing them. I wanted to show an exaggerated version to show you the 'technique'.

Now, in Jenifer Anniston's hair, she has dozens of these only much thinner.... If I were to show that it would be hard to see.

Highlights are History - the Sequel

 DEMO

6 FOILS + BLEACH = using SLICES

We will call her Holly.

Holly needs to deal with how much gas costs, and the fact that she lives in a town that has no good Colorists. She is tired of the brown she tinted her hair own hair with, so she will not be going to the Salon, not with Killer Strands to help. She saw, that the professional Creme Bleach in the Killerstrands Store was on Special...... bleach In the Killer COLOR CLINIC, there are conditioners and lipids added to creme bleach - she read, which sounds a lot more forgiving...added to that the moisturizers and conditioners that will come with the developer that comes with. This way my hair will be in the best condition possible when done. I can do it............. it cannot be that hard.

We will only be doing the one side of the head as we did the other side with another Demo a while ago.

I tried very hard to make this parting look exactly like a piece of apple pie, that should be your trick. She told me to make sure I parted the triangle all the way to the very back of my head and in the exact middle. That way I can put one of my slices of light in the back, on both sides, . . . . it will be in the back of my head and I should be able to do it myself with my rear-view mirror's I have set up on my walls. I've tried it once before and it worked pretty easy. The piece in the back is really skinny so its easy.

This is the Creme bleach I bought and saw on Killerstrands Color Clinic http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/cream-bleach-lightener-by-wella, I want to do all I can to protect my hair and its condition, I have been pretty bad to my hair in the past couple years.......... I need to make up for that (ssh!)

OK - here are the foils I bought too, I didn't care about the color, I cared about the fact that they were embossed and that made them not slip and being as I don't know what I am doing I wanted to take away "that" from the difficulty of doing foils for me. You can ask for a few foils when you buy the Creme Bleach. They were so much easier to use than most. Now, you absolutely MUST make the edge that I am showing you. Fold it once and then again....a very thin fold as you can see... that fold helps the color from leaking out.

The very first parting needs to be made to part OFF the hair surrounding the face so that it is left out. Leaving it the color the hair is , in my case I wanted it to be brown so I didn't have a weird light blond stripe right against my face. That would look funny I thought, when you see me at the end you can decide.

See how super thin the very first slice of hair I take is??? I had a hard time taking the picture and showing you at the same time but I think you can see. Its less than 1/8 of an inch ! I place that first foil very close to the slice of hair, notice that so when you do it you will do it the same. I had bought a mannequin and practiced on her for a while, it was fun so... I didn't care -- I wish they would have taught us this when we were in school. 

Remember when we had HOME EC.? I think we should have sewing, cooking and hair color. Why Not I wonder? More people I know would rather color their hair, than cook. 

Maybe it should be the other way around. . . >>but it isn't !

Notice where I place the foil and where i begin to paint the creme bleach...Do not put the lightener ON the fold - - - and why do I do this? I learned my lesson, all bleaches and all hair colors ...."swell" when they are processing, which means they grow and the last thing you want is the bleach leaking out of the end ...as it will make FUGLY spots on the hair that you will not like .... so be very careful how far "in' you put the color.

This is too close - I wanted you to see what is too close....just a tiny bit on the right side> see it??...so I took the foil off and re-did it...but I didn't photograph the re-do . . .

Just be aware that happens ...

if its too close to the fold then re-do it....but that's a lot harder to maneuver so try very hard to be very careful at the fold.

Finally I have the first foil done and am closing it up. Fold it in half - - first. Then fold the sides in....

Now am leaving "that much" of the hair OUT OF THE FOIL >>>> about 3/4 " so there is some of the brown in between each foil . One of the biggest problems I see is Stylists who just won't leave the natural color out of the foils.... so there is variation.

The same very thin parting. . . which is the "SLICE" of hair...appropriately named once I figured out what I was doing.

The same pattern is repeated basically all the way up this side of the hair. Now something she taught me that I did not pick up on myself... when I am using bleach, I can time it so it all ends up 'done' at the same time. Like here for example... if you are not fast, mix one small amount of bleach for this side....and mixed the creme bleach with 20 Volume { another good part of ordering from Killer Color Clinic - you can ask for whatever volume of developer you want - i got 1/2 -- 20 Volume & 1/2 -- 40 Volume} . Now to make it so the 2 sides end up "done" at the same time...[like making a big dinner!] 

I mixed up another small batch of Creme bleach with 40 Volume for the other side. Remember 40 Volume work twice as FAST as 20 Volume - - it is NOT twice as strong - it is all the same the only difference is "TIME"....so doing the other side with 40 Volume - makes it so both sides are at the same lightness at the same time - it was perfect !

This was also too close, and I took a DRY Q-Tip and wiped this one off on the fold....so it wouldn't leak. I used a bigger brush and had a harder time!

Again, see how thin the hair is for the slice? Remember that, thinness is perfectness in SLICES

Another slice to be made. . as my trip up the side of the head continues. Make my partings clean and straight its important

Another Slice of light . . .

Applying the bleach and 20 Volume . . . . .

Closing the 3 foils up and continue on . . .

As you go up the side - - see how the width of the slice narrows? ? The last one is not even 1 inch wide!

Refresh the bleach midway up by taking a small squirt of 20 Volume and mixing it in to the mixture

Be sure you keep the angle of each foil correct so that your foils sit like this and end up over the eyeball, if your foils end up any other direction at all then something is wrong. Be sure to check

Now, if the room is cold or there is a draft and its not at least 75-80 degrees in the room where you are. . . then heat up your foils for a minute or three, like I had to. Killerstrands Store has a great one , very inexpensive....http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/dryer-sock-diffuser 

This is how I do it at home..... and everyone should have a hair dryer of some sort. 

The diffuser just fits over the end and slows down the wind of the dryer....Diffuses it I guess you could say. ha ha! They are super inexpensive and very handy.

>> When the foils are done and that is so individual, you will have to determine "how long" yourselves.

>> Take the foils out, and rinse completely untill all traces of the bleach are gone....

>> Lightly shampoo with SLS-Free Shampoo -- Rinse -- towel dry hair....The method of

>> Apply an equalizer ( we have a new one on the way!) let set on hair for 5-50 minutes 

>> Rinse & apply Detangler or THRIVEN or whatever your regimen is

I always apply THRIVEN after using Bleach, it is the single best conditioner and after-treatment in addition to our new Equalizer coming out. You never know you colored your hair when you follow up with THRIVEN.

*** Then Blow Dry

Well, this is your results . . . after 6 Foils - - - Creme Bleach + 20 Volume and 40 Volume and is called Slices of Light.I wanted you to see how to use foils that was easy and works with straight hair. This is not how you should apply foils with curly hair....the pattern would be wrong.

See the 1/2 inch of brown that was left out right next to the face that I chose.

You can change it , I just wanted to point out what I was doing. See how its brown next to my face then - - next to that - - there is a blond slice? I think it looks too fake to have the blond right on my face.

Here is what it looks like on the top of my head, so you can see what it looks like with just 6 foils and bleach. I think you really get your money worth, what about you?

In my opinion ( remember this is just me) I don't like the stripey look, but if I was to blend the colors you would not see how the color in the foils came out. Now if you used various colors, and a couple more foils you would have the colors of someone named "ANNISTON" !

Here is the side I wanted you to see the "6" Slices . . . see the tiny one - - in the back which is why you do not need to do the back of your hair, it is taken care of with the front parting - - how perfect is that? ?!?

Here's the "BEFORE and "AFTER" . .photos for you to see. . . I did the same thing they do in all the big magazines. . . I did the blow dry all cool when I had the hair color I liked!

"Isn't it weird and cool all at the same time how much difference I made with just 6 foils! Its not highlights and KILLER CHEMIST says she is not exactly fond of this technique ( using just 1 color) either but I think it rocks . . ."

that's the good part about taste - - we all have it and its all 'different"

she can use multiple colors - - that's hard for me

FINAL VIEW of the look is pretty gorgeous. . . what do you think?

Holly and her 6 Foil Transition using Slices of Lights

Remember a BlowDry can change things more than a color, more than a shampoo 

( WEN (BS) Shampoo's with conditioner (YUK) - look at the ingredients of his product ............a blo-dry sells his product!!!    )

3 Free Hair Color Tools for 1 Week w/ Purchase

 

 

1 Free Tint Bowl

 1 Free Tint Brush

                                   

& 1 Free Tail Comb

w/ purchase of at least 1  haircolor (any)- 1 week only

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/

 3 of the most important tools for beginning Crib Colorists

There is a reason I stress these 3

Once you begin to put down the bottle, the cap and whatever other silly tools you are using. with these you will have professional looking color. Many have “helping hands” & don’t have to apply their color…using these will help the person helping you. Doing it yourself? We have plenty of women that figured it out & discovered the better application results. FYI - - - I’m doing my own hair now, and I have had to get used to applying to myself as well. I promise, its not at all the same as applying to a client sitting in a chair that goes up & down!

Killer Chemist

6 Crucial Factors Affecting Your Hair Color Result

How To Evaluate those Factors at Home

This is the area I know many of you struggle with. I’ve stressed these factors individually but now I am going to review them all together. Now if you are trying to assess your hair in preparation for YOU to color it for the first time …this is the article for you.

6 Imperative Factors to Know Before, ANY Hair Color Procedure

1. Existing Hair Color
2. Virgin Base Level
3. Percentage of Gray
4. Ethnic Background
5. Porosity
6. Texture

The results of your haircoloring, I promise you, will only be as good as your analysis of these 6 points. Hair Colorists who do this day in and day out…should be held to that same rule. If your hair colorings continue to come out wrong. Always revert back to this page. Print it out. Keep it in your cupboard where you have stored your hair color tools. If you don’t have any, get them ! Don’t do hair color with home products, when your goal now is to have your hair look professional. Its not hard to do a good analysis, you just have to know what to look for.

I’m telling you, it would be so simple to print this page out….or simplify to how it makes sense to you (keeping the important parts). Each time you go to “change your hair color” you use the sheet. Answer all 6 questions.

1.) Existing Hair Color >? I have found in our Group ( http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands) that this is the most misunderstood step. You need to answer honestly to yourself whether you have put hair color on your hair is the last 12-18 months. If you have it alters what you can do profoundly. Don’t lie to yourself. Hundreds of people everyday sit in chairs and lie to hairstylists. . . they don’t think we can tell and we can. We want to see if you are going to be honest or not. So remember this. Once you have applied any type of hair color that uses developer  to your hair there are so many options that become impossible to do. So think about this the nest time you feel like running out to the drugstore and applying, quickly, some boxed haircolor , because those are the worlds hardest colors to get out. Don’t do it, if you ever want to have nice hair color.                                                                              If you do have hair color determine what level that color is.There are different plans to think about if your present hair color is

• lighter…………than your ‘desired’…you will pre-pigment or fill
• the same level as your ‘desired’…...this is easy – smile
• darker ……….than your ‘desired’…..you will remove color (Vanish)

2.) Virgin Hair Level – Determine Your Virgin Level by parting the top of the hair down the middle. Doing it to yourself? Use bathroom so you can look up close take the end of a tail comb (tail comb) take a copy of any 1 of the 2 dozen Level Charts on this Blog I have given you, with you. Pull the hair up near the part, gauge it from there. NEVER THE ENDS. If your not sure ask a partner, ask a family member, ask a friend.

     

3.) Determine the % of gray – Gray hair is basically hair with no pigment. Haircolor looks different on gray hair than on any other color. The reason? If gray has 0 pigment

• Level 10 blonde - 10% pigment
• Level 9 blonde - 20% pigment
• Level 8 blonde - 30% pigment
• Level 7 dark blond - 40% pigment 
• Level 6 Light brown – 50%pigment    
• and on down the line till you reach Level 1 – with 100% pigment

Gray is not on that chart at all. It has “0” pigment. With no pigment it has nothing the hair color can latch onto, so therefore when you color without using the tricks to covering gray….it will cover but in 1-2-3 weeks the gray will begin to show its ugly head!

When you have gray you must come up with an estimate of how much gray you have, this can be a little tricky at the beginning. So let me give you a couple tricks. 10% gray means one in every ten hairs is gray. Many times it is the first impression that makes me decide. Remember all of these factors go back to number 1 – do you have color on the hair already. If so, you are doing this estimating on the “base” (roots) ……….. {roots is such a God-awful word they came up ‘base’ –much more appealing…try to use it}. So there are many different situations you may find yourself in. Close your eyes……….open them, does your hair look more gray than natural? Than you are over 50%….and vice versa. If you are coloring your own hair  you will be able to play with this..as a professional I feel you should know exacts before you ever start hair on clients.

Below in the picture of a chart on the right hand side….it shows 25% gray – 50% Gray & 75% Gray…………..

With this color Series I am going to go through coloring all the way. Not leaving things out with hopes of a book. That will never happen, so now you will get the entire color Instruction and in order. You will be taught the Sassoon method of how to cover gray, and everything else.

4.) Ethnic background – I put this in here because I feel most publications (and my training left it out as a distinct category. It is deeply studied in the European part of the world and they have magazines and books that deal only with ethnic hair.

> Afro American hair tends to be very curly and darker and coarser, on average, than Caucasian.                            > Asian hair tens to be coarse , very resistant , very dark and straight.

So those….. and I have written a wonderful post about ethnicities & their hair but all hair on all people has most of the same properties. The properties from one ethnicity to another will most definitely be different so that subject does not really affect this post.                                        

5.) Porosity – Resistant hair is slower to accept haircolor. It’s funny out of all these steps……I have found both in the group –and- in all of the Consultations I have done  . . . everyone knows whether or not their hair “takes’’ color well or not. Isn’t that funny??  I think that is super unusual. Every single hairstylist out there must be saying to themselves as they takes the foils out or I have always scratched the color off with my fingernail to see if the color is taking fast or not – that every single one of you KNOWS the answer to that question !!! Well, THAT is the porosity of your hair. You were born with it.

Overporous hair processes quickly and may require more warmth in the formula and a weaker developer ( and possibly ‘filling’ or they used to call it pre-pigmenting).

Then there is normal porosity….means a slightly raised cuticle – just barely lifted. No adjustments need to be made and most of you have this porosity.

I feel porosity affects a lot more than most give it credit for… you will see in following posts.

6). Texture of Hair – Most people have medium texture so no special considerations are needed.

For extremely fine and “might'” have to pay attention to…. the “quote goes 9 out of ten people are medium texture” so most people don’t have to worry. I find that quote a little off with all the ethnicities here now and with all the cross marriages…lots of beautiful new textures are popping up.

What you will want to be careful of is the fine hair around the face some people have. If that is you ….there are a couple tricks …but I will give you the 2 easiest. Because to me there are 2 kinds of face frame hair….one is super find one is medium fine. The only difference is in timing – I was this picky – maybe you don’t want to be.

• Super fine….3-5 minutes before end of processing time (save a bowl of color – always) apply color. Rinse that part last.
• Medium fine … just apply color on whole head then apply last ( this way it has 20-25 minutes.!)

Killer Chemist

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                   

Hair Color Basics From The Boss

Messages from Members Motivate Me : Time To Review Hair Color Basics

In speaking with many of you lately, and just this morning someone in the group, made me feel some Posts on the BASIC OF HAIR COLOR were due. Everything has been written about on this Blog in years past but, like you, I get tired of looking back & through years of Posts on Blogs I read – so I get it.

First I want to talk to you about the different categories of Hair Color. I am going to put in my 2 cents to the very boring and bland manner in which this topic is normally discussed, so hang on to your hat!

The lines between the categories of color used to be sharp now they are not only foggy, they don’t really mean much to well-trained Colorists. We can almost always find a way around the way the color is supposed to be used. I feel it takes  more than 1 term to describe the hair color products of today.

For decades the 4 basic categories were:

• Temporary (the oldest) - shampoos out, here today/gone tomorrow. Rinses, Roux, Root Touch-up mascaras/wands, color shampoo, etc,
• Semi-Permanent- lasts haircut to haircut (meaning 4 weeks). A diminishing category sadly. I feel there is a lot of room for expansion here, provided category is used properly NO DEVELOPER. Large color manufacturers have mislead public putting: ”Semi-Permanent” on boxes of hair color that included developer : which is completely WRONG and misleading. The minute Developer is used, it changes the manner in which hair color works, it then imparts that line of demarcation something not achieved when using a ‘true’ Semi Permanent Haircolor. This category is wonderful for refreshing color it emparts more shine than any other category, but sadly the large manufacturers feel we don’t need this – when WE DO!
• Demi-Permanent (the newest) – 1/2 way between Semi & Permanent is what they aim for Demi to be.  Various companies define it differently, Deposit-only, very Gentle on strands, for the Killerstrands gang : the perfect hair color application is to apply Permanent haircolor on the roots/new growth…Demi-Permanent on the lengths. Demi imparts VIVID color results, a knock-out for shine, covers mild gray (under 25%), refreshes Permanent color,deposits Tonal changes, corrective coloring and reverse-highlighting.
• Permanent – Oxidized haircolor. This is the Grandaddy category for some reason. You have the choice of 10 Volume thru 40 Volume developer and everything in between. Developer (hydrogen peroxide) is mixed w/ haircolor and remains in strands till new growth of hair. Used for covering gray (#1),lightening, matching previous hair color. The 1 & only color that performs the complete magical act of Lifting color and Depositing color at the same time. Think about that! All companies ‘claim’ this category of their hair color is permanent. When in fact it is not. All HAIR COLOR FADES except Bleach / Lightener / Oil Lightener. Please read on for those of you weary of this category…I have a surprize for you….

Lets look at the definition of “Permanent”:  existing perpetually; everlasting, especially without significant change, long-lasting or non-fading(!)

Had a good laugh?  I’ve applied Permanent haircolor on over 10,000 Heads, not 1 of them had the same haircolor 5-8 weeks later & these are folks that all used Sulfate-free shampoos and the finest hair products in the land (my Salon was in Malibu) and followed 10,000 HEADS really really well..

Many of you are freaked out by the sound “Permanent Color”, I really would like everyone to get over that. If you don’t believe me, ask your relatives-friends-moms-daughters-boyfriends….there experience with “permanent haircolor”. Remember I am talking properly applied professional haircolor in colors lighter than Level 2. The only color you don’t want to be permanent is the only one that is…Level 1 black.  It takes at least 4 boxes of VANISH to fade Black….no one wants to have black hair for very long. Its harsh & not flattering on anyone’s complexion.

Every single haircolor fades......permanent, semi-permanent, temporary and
anything else anyone has made up.
WHY?
Its the nature of the beast. If you have ever had permanent hair color – I already know where it comes from. Applying boxed hair color on top of itself about 20 times – then its permanent. It also looks like dull-dry-ugly SHOE POLISH with that method.  I am glad there is no “technically-permanent” haircolor, the only people who wish there was are clients with lots of Gray although there is a problem with that idea. The new gray roots will always be there, we cannot do anything about your new growth and you wouldn’t want us to.

Embrace permanent color, because - - - as long as you are using any hair color with a developer @ any Volume level you deal with the same issues and I promise there is across the board flexibility (same with every single haircolor brand). 

          
Scientists are funny. They sit in their labs at these Color
Giants.....and they develop hair color.....so they figure out 1 hair
color and if it goes through a couple washes it is almost the exact
same color. Think about this........they are MEN. Now did everyone
laugh???
Have you ever asked your "man"  - -  if he loves your new hair
color??? 9 out of 10 don't know if you went form blonde to black.
When women would be in my chair and they would be nervous about their man’s approval in changing haircolors that "they" wanted and I agreed would look
outstanding....
I would ALWAYS tell them, "he will never even notice"......not
once in 15 years did I have someone come back and tell me their man
was mad.......
why?
they really don't care what color our hair is.
So that is why I really don't think much of the "MEN" who sit in these
labs.
They are still men

As long as I have been doing hair I have never run into one haircolor
that truly was permanent, as I said…I think they are ALL misnamed and the Permanent should be Demi and so on
down the line....
Bleach/Oil-Bleach Lightener  is truly the one & only color process
that is permanent.

Yes they look good for 1-2-3 weeks but after that well it goes out the
window....I still feel FUDGE COLOR'S are OVER AND ABOVE the best Krazy
Kolors on the market.....MANIC PANIC & the 3 brands you speak of ARE
SOLD IN THE MALL....anyone and their mother can buy them..Haircolor
has different levels of quality...
which is why you can buy haircolor in Sallys and you might as well
pour that out the window as you drive home.
Again haircolor is made by men....and I don't want anyone to get me
wrong, I love MEN, they are my favorite hobby...
BUT
Men should NOT be making haircolor for all of these companies.
To make haircolor you must be a Cosmetic Chemist...........that
society has about 98% MEN. Now you know why haircolor is not “more permanent than it is, why there aren’t more colors to choose from.  All in a nutshell.
So, you young women out there...now you know what occupation needs
help...  take it from me, it is a blast as well. We need women in the industry in all facets. One needs a degree in Science, then a Degree in Cosmetic Chemistry.

I’ll be waiting for you….

KC  Killer Chemist