Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Blondevous: From Platinum to Honey Blonde & How To Nail It

Level 12 to Level 8 : A Look at the Road to Honey Blond From Platinum White – Safely, At Home, and With A Couple Actual Formula’s To Use!


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There has been a lot of talk lately from many people in our group who took the big step of going all the way to Platinum and want to tip-toe back into the ‘little-bit’ darker tones. The main goal I hear is wanting to still be blonde, just a bit darker and warmer so approximately a Level 8.
Its funny I hear lots of you wanting to be a Level 9 and now we have 2 products to become a Level 9......
  • we have a  terrific new Mousse by Schwarzkopf   that tones hair for 2 weeks ++ which is long for a Level 9. That is the most difficult Level and the reason is, it is so light, there just isn't much pigment, without Pigment - - the color can't "stick" - as long...it shampoos out. But, I have numerous notes from people just super pleased with the color 9.5-1 ....and 9.5-4 in the Mousse. It all comes down to science like all hair color is based ! ( I hear Level 9) ….
  • then we have the new Glosses by DAVINES, also Semi-permanent. There are a couple different formula's I will give you one for Blonde with Brass .... use 1oz. Clear Gloss 1oz. + 1 oz. Ash(violet cancels brass) + 1oz. Light Blonde (or whichever blonde you want to be) ...you could even skip the clear Gloss!.  Another is Pearl + very light Blonde is nice (Pearl is always a Violet/Blue cast so it conquers brass/Blorange. Now remember these are Semi's no developer so don't expect complete miracles. But, I've had plenty of emails of happy readers.
 I have a quote I came up with a long time ago . . . and had a sign made up for my wall at the Salon . . . . .

‘not all hair . . . can be all colors

People do not like to hear this. A select few would get upset and even angry when I say it and when they saw the sign. Its funny in President Obama’s speech last night he quoted Thomas Jefferson saying “ every man cannot have his way in all things”. .I laughed … sounded soooo similar to my ‘quote’! 

Like him, I’m not trying to ruin anyone’s parade I swear. . . I’m trying to be realistic and there are a million and a half hair stylists who won’t tell you the truth, and will try to guess or try an experiment and perform what is basically an “experiment” on your hair and will end up destroying your hair. How do I know this? All the emails we get from you! They will try to make you any color you ask for….even if it is literally and scientifically impossible. Hair Color is a science .... it is NOT guess work  - something else that should be remembered! 

There are rules and reasons why some things work and some things DON’T. So many of the hair stylists out there just do not understand the Level System and how developer and the Level System work together. (I would stress to most of you trying to learn this system to purchase both a color wheel and a peroxide wheel . .  they are wonderful tools in helping you to fully understand how the system works.

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Most hair stylists whom do not understand how the Level system works just want your butt in their chair….for the income ( that ought to make a lot of them madder than Hell at me, but they need to understand how many letters and calls I have recieved) . The goal of this Blog/Group/Store is to educate you… as if you all had the advantages of a complete Cosmetology course education – out in the open – free to research on.  Why I am I doing this ?? 

I want to be honest and let you know that I was diagnosed with a super rare bone cancer : synovial sarcoma.......if affect my legs and spine so it is difficult to stand for longer than 30-60 min... which ended my career....right when I had done the hair of a Grammy winner, that made the cover of the Los Angeles Times. After 1 year of a pity party...I decided I needed to do something to "give back" . . . . the only skill I have besides my first occupation as a professional athlete. Was my 14 years in Hair. Everyone writes about sports  . . .

NO ONE broke open the "HUSH-HUSH'' world of professional hair color to the public. There are thousands of little townships spread across America who NEED THIS  -- as they have no access to decent-properly formulated Hair Color or hair color education!

I only learned THAT fact . . . . .after I heard from so many of you out there ....all with similar stories ..... When something like this happened to me my whole attitude really intensified and began to change............NOW. . . . I WAS ON A TRUE MISSION OF THE HEART !  !

I also want to help educate hair stylists ( which we have A-LOT of ) that read this Blog - - to read and learn from it. . . . to study this BLOG if they are rusty in certain areas or even better would be for them to take continuing education classes in hair color. 




 Call Vidal Sassoon Academy in Santa Monica, California and take either their 2-3-5-7-15 or 30 day Advanced Classes which are designed for advance education for existing Stylists. Pricey yes…but…they are worth every single penny, I used to assist the Educator in those classes in those classes and would watch people who had been stylists for years - -  “not know” how to color properly. Way back then when I was Assisting in Education I wondered why so many of the students didn’t know or understand how to properly color hair, I was just super naive. I originally thought

 Its so funny this many years later  - -  it ALL makes sense now. With so many people they were so happy to learn that there was a system. The problems stems from having very UNQUALIFIED Cosmetology schools spread across the United States. Sassoon (which really has nothing to do with the man) is what everyone refers to as the “Harvard” of Hair Schools. This British couple : Annie Humphrey & Tim Hartley bought it years ago . . he is probably the worlds best “cutter” and she the worlds queen of “color” – both Brits they run it like a boot camp – very strict – no bullshit – anyone goofing around was kicked out…Cash up front ( and lots of it) NO financing at all… at first I didn’t think I would make it. 

Then I realized the “quality” and “brilliance” they were turning out of there…. and I straightened up and could not get enough. I mean I didn’t realize it at the time because I had just come from 15 years as one of the top Stuntwomen in the country…but Angus Mitchell was in my class -- PAUL MITCHELL’s son & Whopie Goldberg’s daughter both were in my class…. I was immune to celebrities…. I didn’t realize the impact of where I was till I was out in the Salon world – and I saw how little most of them knew. I was the biggest hit in Malibu…it was a complete surprise to me though.

After 7 years on this Blog what I have discovered is….there are so many of you who have tried every Stylist in your town…..and what you have ended up with is damaged – improperly colored hair. I just feel so bad, and there isn’t a whole lot one person in LA can do for Suzie in North Carolina or Kristy in Florida. So my Blog makes more and more sense to me on a daily basis. I just hope and pray most of you who end up here will spend some time doing research on back posts to solve your problems. Then supporting us by making your purchase in our store, we carry all sorts of weird and hard to find hair color, scalp, skin, scents and hair health products.
Now many of you have spent years having your hair color screwed-up and you are tired of it…what I am hopin’ to offer here is a well educated Hair Blog so you can take your hair color back into your own hands. MAKE IT A HOBBY! If cooking can become a hobby then hair color can.  . . . and you know what? The satisfaction I hear from people who have learned that there is a system to coloring your hair and an exact science…is rewarding as Hell, and it is what has kept me going all these years!
Who cares about your hair more than you?
No one, I promise you…
Everything is here, all the basics - - if its not . . . you can join our group and do more research and figure it out. There is very little we do not talk about here.
Now back to the goal of this post….Platinum hair wanting to go back to a Level 8 – Natural Blonde. That may ‘seem’ like a easy transition  . . . but it is not. When I would have a client in my chair who decided to take that plunge in the first place….I would always explain the various ramifications of going Platinum so there were no surprises. That being said ‘going platinum’ ‘was’ and ‘is’ my favorite hair color procedure to do. I love changing hair in the most radical way that is possible, and doing it so it is healthy and shiny is always the main goal  - - - when I first changed an Asian’s hair from black to white – many years ago – I then realized how this occupation was going to satisfy this damn ‘artistic gene’ I have running through my blood. It was a thrill and each and every time since… it was…but when trying to keep a loyal and beloved clientele - - so they keep coming back and send all their friends…it really is best to be up-front and totally honest.
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              Level 12 ………….to a…………….   Level 8

Turning the hair Platinum removes every single trace of “tone” and “warmth” the hair possesses – check out the 2 photos – on the left is Level12 on the right is a Level 8 – BOTH ARE BLONDE!. See the tonal quality & warmth in the photo on the right ??? They are 2 completely different looks and personally I adore both and love to do both when in my coloring mode. Of course the platinum is and always has been my number 1 choice the many times I have been asked…so don’t ever think you shouldn’t choose a future hair color switcheroo based on this post. 90% of people when returning back from a period of Platinum hair . .  will go to their own darker hair color . . a Level 7 or darker. . .and that is a very ‘set’ procedure and it works very well (Fill the hair first and then re-color the darker color). But just wanting to go 3-4 Levels darker is the big trick.
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LEVEL 7…or darker………….Level 6

Now to be a Level 8 is a whole different ball game. Check out the level 8 up above . .  see how light it is? ? The problem comes from when there is normally a 2 level procedure when coming back from platinum to a Level 7 or darker…The process is called “filling” the hair. Many of you have heard about this. . . Filling means you are doing a 2-step procedure, in order to get the proper color and have it stick….otherwise because platinum hair has NO color nor NO Tone in it….the color will just shampoo out at the first application. So what good is it? I CAN make any hair color for a Photo shoot…I mean any hair color. I did this many many times to models, and I swear I would go home and have the biggest cloud hanging over my head on the ones I knew that it would just shampoo out the next day and their hair would be screwed. So many of the high fashion shoots are this way….those were very-very hard for me. I felt much better being honest and doing hair in the Salon world where it was my decision as to what color the hair would be!
I want to say one thing before I give you the directions to coming back from Platinum hair. . . but still remaining blond. This method will work on 8 out of 10 people . . .  that’s pretty good. But there are some of you with very porous hair, probably those that did not use our Oil-Bleach Kit - - which would make your hair super porous and therefore damaged and hard to re-color – in which case these directions will not work for you. The only clue I can give you as to “who” those 2 people are that this re-coloring method won’t work for is that…..If you have not used our Oil-Bleach Kit..  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com   then you will most-likely have ‘re-coloring’ issues and you should begin a THRIVEN and GLEAM re-moisturizing mission. You truly ‘can’ repair thrashed over-processed hair. . . but it will take a little “regular” effort. But so many of you do not think that it is possible….I receive multiple e-mails daily.. from ‘seasoned’ readers who have begun 10,000 HEADS and have repaired their damaged hair. If that is you…..get on it! Gleam was formulated to actually replace the lipids missing in your hair - - and I promise you - -  it works, it really truly does. You must be religious about applying it every-single-day – twice a day ( good part> you only need a few little drops).
So for reaching a LEVEL 8 you must color your hair twice. Yep….twice!  If you try to work around this, it will just not work. I cannot satisfy your every wish . . . but I CAN solve this problem for those of trying to accomplish this. I’m going to give you 3 different formula’s……..none are fast, none are easy and none are cheap. What they are is effective, proper and the best part? ? ?  None will damage your hair (that is the only way I roll).
This first formula is the one I have done, I really don’t recommend it. . . its time-consuming and can get costly  . . . but it does work!
  • Color Prep with Malibu 2000 first.
  • Run a strand test, which you may request a free one with your order OR if order is over $50.00 ( adjust accordingly)
  • #1:  Wella – Koleston Perfect  9/38GP(80% of total) +8/7B (20%of total) +  equal parts of 10Volume
  • Apply every 10 days until it sticks {could take couple months – depends on porosity & MUST MUST MUST apply IN-TENSIVE afterwards for a minimum of 50 minutes} …shampooing only 2X per week with Sulfate-free ‘shampoo. THRIVEN & GLEAM. This is how Celebs hair looks healthy – shiny & wonderful all the time.
this was something I did for a number of Celebs. . . . making that change
The following is what I recommend for you. Now the necessity of this method is needing a Level 9 or 10 Gold/Red, X-Factor is the only brand with the perfect color – it is one of the many & main reasons I brought X.Factor to you.(Wella used to have one)…. In first applying a gold/red you are doing what’s called “filling” the hair. Filling the hair with the warmth it is missing by being so light. . . .I still believe Wella makes the best “browns” “honey browns” – so we then switch to that line. These exact formulas need to be used. . . .marilyn-monroe 88
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  • #2. Color Prep with Malibu 2000 – first
  • Run a strand Test
  • Apply either 10.04… in X.Factor with 10 Volume for 30 minutes.
  • Rinse well , apply In-Tensive 30 minutes(min)
  • Apply Wella Koleston Perfect 9.38 (40%) + 8.7(20%) + 9.0 (40%) – process 50-60 minutes. I always go conservative with the first attempt. If this ends up too light or washes out too soon change the percentages accordingly. You always must add twice the lighter colors in relation to the darker ones - - for it to be even. ( that is a HUGE secret barely anyone knows) keep reading that over and over if it is confusing.
Now for the very last formula . . .this will be a little darker. . . maybe a 7.5…I’ve always felt the level system has way too few levels I think it should be about 25 LEVELS…as I see so many more levels than they offer. But that’s just me I suppose.
  • #3. Color Prep with Malibu 2000 packet first. Rinse very well & use IN-Tensive for 15 minutes.
  • Run a strand test.
  • Apply 9.43 in X. Factor….with 10 Volume for 30 minutes….
  • Rinse well, apply In-TENSIVE 30 minutes…Rinse
  • Apply Wella Color Touch in 9.73BG (40%)+ 8.71BA(25%)+(35%)9/0N – mix the 3 colors FIRST! Then add 2X times the developer in 13 Volume. If math is not your thing – everyone has a friend or relative where that is their love…and they will be happy to help. I know – cuz many people have told me stories. I promise its not that difficult. You can tell them there are little lines on the tube of color that mark off 1/2 oz. – 1oz. – 1 1/2oz….that helps some people.Process 50 minutes
  • Clean hair line with Clean Touch..( request complimentary small sample which is enough for 2 haircolors with color order)
  • Rinse well, Follow up with IN-Tensive for as long as possible. Thriven overnight . . . I always ask my clients to NOT shampoo for 48-72 hours that way the color really gets locked in.
So finally I have addressed this issue for may of you. You may not like the extensive formula it takes but it is the one and only way this particular hair color change works. Remember short cuts only will bring tears . . .
Killer Chemist

3 comments:

  1. Great post! Thank you!
    My hair is not platinum but quite light from over bleaching and highlights but i hope i can use this formula to darken my hair to natural blonde.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Love your Blog. It is defiantly the truth . I cant stress enough how much I Despise hair stylist who do and agree with anything just to get you in their chair. I have a question how exactly do you fill in the platinum blonde before the color. I figured the color you can use a level 8-7 but the filling part is what I have no clue on.
    -xo xo Bianca

    ReplyDelete
  3. To go from Platinum or Blonde to dark you must "fill" the hair first (must - must - must)that's too much info for a quick chat....
    if you are interested in becoming customers/members of Killerstrands please join our Group to learn how to "fill"
    http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/KillerstrandsHair/
    thanks, KC

    ReplyDelete

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