In order to color hair so it stays nice and beautifully rich some of us have acquired tricks that we like to keep to ourselves. That way we keep a nice stream of clients filling our chairs on a regular basis. A point to remember ... the steps and ideas noted here are not taken into account when you purchase those boxed kits. So if none of them are taken into account, I simply do not understand how the manufacturers of those kits can assume the hair will be colored correctly.
They won't because there needs to be some education that people understand before they attempt to color their hair. Let me relate it to cooking once again. Lets say you have purchased a Rice-A-Roni Boxed kit in the grocery store. You take that home to make it, read the directions on the box ...follow them and have something pretty darn close to what the maker hoped you would. Otherwise, I can guarantee you would not keep continuing to purchase it...it would be history, and why? There are lots of other boxed kits of food to chose from. Now, on that box of Rice-A-Roni it tells you to measure 1 Tablespoon of this and 1/2 teaspoon of that, and to bring to boil. Where did you learn what a Tablespoon is compared to a teaspoon? Where did you learn what a "boil" is ? cooking is chemistry as well ... just like hair color. Which is precisely my point within the boundaries of hair color, certain rules, or laws, or guidelines need to be known before the task is taken on so the result is not a disaster. Nowhere does it say that on those boxes, it gives no instructions on hair type, texture, structure,prior hair color treatments, light, porosity, color saturation...none of that. Which is 'why' the results are most times atrocious. Why can't they all go to separate color and developer stations - with instruction sheets. That's all I am saying. I have never felt that the entire idea needs to be scrapped, I just think it all needs to be sold like it is in the beauty supply - separately - with a sheet of instructions. It does NOT work in a boxed kit, nor will it ever.
Every time I look at the new ads with Eva Langoria shouting the wonders of a $8.00 boxed hair color kit and how it has done this
to her hair, I want to scream bloody murder. For the most important point there are a minimum of 4 colors in this look, so how in the bloody hell can she even claim to use one box with one color in it, is beyond me. It makes me lose total respect for the women that choose to do these commercials or ads. They could choose to do another ad, do mascara, do foundation - Hell do shampoo, but to lie about what the color is on your hair? I couldn't do it myself - and I need the money, they don't.
I have done this exact look on others, when I do a stars hair I either sign a piece of paper called a Confidentiality Agreement or I verbally agree to one. Being a 31 year member of the Screen Actors Guild makes me stick to my word so I will not give out names - as I never have. So you will never hear who, you will just have to trust that its the truth. I know my information is top notch so I have no worries, no doubts & no guilt. A million dollar movie star has never ever put an $8.00 boxed kit on their hair, their Stylist,Colorist,Lawyer, Publicist, and Agent would not allow it...let alone the star. One move like that could destroy a perfectly gorgeous star's career, seen Rene Zellwegers hair lately? Thank the Hair Gods above for gorgeous wigs.
I have 2 words I'd like to define for you... they both are difficult to understand and explain, which is why I have been avoiding them...today I begin the battle:
Porous: Describes condition of cuticle when it is raised and open, allowing moisture and liquid to absorb
Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb liquid or moisture
9 Steps to take seriously before coloring hair
1. What is Your Ethnic Group
This is a little trick learned from the Europeans I find handy . Because each type of hair responds differently to color, its important to understand the nature of the hair you have. Do you have Nordic, Celtic, Latin, Mediterranean, Asian, or African Hair. Refer to the 2 families of Hair charts below. Across the top are the LEVELS, the more you understand the Levels - the better for your success as a Home Pro Hair Colorist remember.
The number 1 color of hair in the entire world? .........BLACK
The most rare: RED
Just one more way of understanding how hair color works the best
2. Evaluate Your Hair Texture
Different weights and types of hair will respond differently when color is applied. Texture refers to the diameter of each shaft of hair, Usually categorized by fine, medium or coarse. It is essential to be familiar with how various textures of hair will react to color. Hair density differs not only from one individual to another but also from strand to strand on the same persons head - to further confuse things. It is best determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers if you do not know your texture - give it a try. The 3 types of hair have the following characteristics
- Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, go one half to one level lighter will always be a good idea
- Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.
- Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate.
- The most difficult? Hair with a high degree of uneven porosity (see above) needs to be formulated with a partial portion of bottled color - helps with even-ness.
3. Hair Density
Hair density measures the number of strands of hair on the head, indicating how thick or thin the hair is. Individuals with the same hair texture can have different densities, I know - I know it all can be so damn confusing, just hang in there with me. Some individuals with fine hair texture, characterized by each hair having a small diameter, may have high density, with many individual hairs per square inch. Others with coarse hair texture, characterized by each hair having a large diameter, may have low density, with few individuals hairs per square inch.
4. Determine your Natural Level
Take a good close look to see exactly what color it is in its natural state, this will give you the information you need to plan the coloring process.
When in doubt about which exact color you are match the hair with the charts in the "N" row of theX.Factor Chart or the LANZA charts
5. Determine the Amount of Gray Hair
Since white or gray hair acts differently with hair color than pigmented hair, even a home hair colorist must first assess the amount of gray present on their noggin'.
If hair is more than 30 percent gray, choose your target level, use the "N" series on those charts again and now add the tonal group to the assessment. I have not gone into this to the depth I need to yet, but its coming... you will need to use the "N" series to implant the base in that colorless (gray) hair and the tonal choice will give it the warmth or coolness desired. If needed some haircolor from the "Beige/Brown series will also increase coverage of gray. A 20 Volume amount of hydrogen peroxide is always recommended for deposit in this area.
Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough.
If you are 80 to 100% gray, a haircolor within the blonde range is generally more flattering that a darker shade. Gray hair has many tricks and complications and deserves a post of its own and its on its way.
6. Have any Previous Hair Color Treatments
Whether or not you have previous color on your hair or not is the single most neglected and misunderstood step. I have the hardest time with getting through to people about this. This is another point that the boxed kits should point out immediately which they do not, the reason they don't? No one would purchase the stuff if it said that, there are figures like 85% of the country is now coloring their hair, so with a figure like that why wouldn't they WANT to put that on the Kit?
Be honest ... with you, with your hair, so many people put color on their hair and then think a stylist won't see it or can tell. Nothing is farther from the truth and nothing could be worse for the outcome of your hair. It affects the outcome - be real , be honest - all color on that hair counts unless its been cut off .
In my opinion hair color must be removed at all times if you are going lighter. Removed, not bleached. There is one and only one color remover I would recommend - it is a professional level color remover and a patented formula from Germany that at one time was known as MODULAT. I still call it that. I guess there are some other knock-offs out there, that claim to do the same thing - who knew?? !! I'm finding out things even I didn't know with the life of this site. For color removing services in Malibu the prices started at $250. for 1 treatment, usually 2-3 are needed, the price of the product from Killerstrands is $33.00 and does not take a rocket scientist to operate. If you have interest in the item please send an email with "product order" in the subject header to Killerstrands@gmail.com .
7. What Is The Result You Want?
Seem silly? You will not believe the amount of people that do not clarify this to themselves before heading to the Beauty Supply. Look through magazines, tear out pages of looks, comb through my sites...even though its been too much for me to do both...I still have an entire blog of photos only...and continue to get emails from people thanking me because they are current hot photos of hair, so look there ...its hooked up so you can download a very clear photo to your own computer. http://www.killerpics.blogspot.com/ . Print the photo out and think about the colors - look and style. Ask others for opinions and try not to make rash decisions. There is something about chicks and hair color and doing it - - - "NOW"- - I have newly discovered thru this site. Come on team lets try to put some proper preparation into this, its a pretty substantial change you are trying to make, I really don't recommend just stop-drop and rolling! Lets plan - prepare and execute, OK?
What is the exact color you want to achieve and how will you get there? Are you prepared for the maintenance work, which is one thing very few of you ever consider. How much maintenance and re-touching will this new color require? Can you handle it? Have you ever used foils? Ever used semi permanent Pink? Consider all the angles and cover what you need to know - prior to D-day or C-day I mean (color)!
8. The importance of the Right LightMetamerism, which refers to the reflective property of objects as subjective to the type and power of light source, also effects the coloring of hair. How the room is lit where you make your decisions can make a huge difference in the way the color looks on your head and needs to be carefully planned and accounted for.
Do not look at your hair under fluorescent lights when dealing with hair color, it will just not be a happy ending. If you must get a lamp and purchase some incandescent lights with the whitest bulb possible to use just to determine and work with your hair coloring projects, you will thank me in the end. The most highly recommended lights are the halogen white lights, a bit pricier but the oooohooo color is slam-damit-right.
9. Plan for color SaturationDyes are different arrangements of molecular structures and tend to modify the light rays that fall on them. This phenomenon is known as color saturation.
It needs to be understood that the intermediate content in a tube or bottle is obviously dependent on the amount of depositing and saturation of color to achieve. The lighter the color level, the less intermediate it will contain. The darker the level, the more the content as you can see by the chart.