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Live and In Color

BIONIC BLOND -- Toner Application

Bleach & Tone Process

Application of Toner

Shopping List

• Towels
• Tail Comb
• Latex Gloves (small)
• Clips
• Cape or Old T-shirt
• Plastic/Glass Bowl
• Shampoo SLS-free
• Peroxide - 10-20 Volume
• After/Treatment Rinse {Wella IN DEPTH}
• Cotton
• Toner
• Protective Cream
• Tint Brush
• Timer

Pre-lighten the hair to the "frozen butter" stage...ever seen frozen butter? Helluva lot different than room temp. butter...its very pale - frosty yellow/white, check your freezer....so you implant that color in the cells of your brain. That is the key to getting hair light enough, YET not too light, so as to do irreparable damage.That is one of the trickiest yet most crucial parts to nailing the proper bleached blond. Here's a couple photos. . . .to show you it is not white. 

Preparation

1. Prelighten to FROZEN BUTTER.
2. Shampoo hair super lightly ( most likely this is already done), after-treatment conditioner, rinse, and towel-dry.
3. Select the desired Toner Shade - check manufacturer's directions as to whether the hair is better dry or wet ?...they are ALL different.
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears.
5. Perform a strand test, for allergies. ( I have to suggest this, its up to you)
6. Toners are both --- sometimes non-oxidative (which means it does not use Developer - its used straight out of bottle or tube), some times oxidative, usually 10 -15 Volume is for Toners in the rare case. 20 volume. NO OTHER VOLUME. I can see a lot of you do not quite understand VOLUME'S. Remember 10 Volume - deposits color only. There is no lift ( lightening). 15 Volume is deposit only. The idea here is to deposit a very light OPAQUE ( think of Nylons or Opaque pantyhose in this case) "Tone" on top of the lightened hair. An Ice beige, a Platinum, Rosy beige, there are a zillion colors like this. If you cannot figure this out.... you cannot go wrong by using a Platinum toner. Platinum would be Gwen Stefani's hair, everyone loves Platinum.

Procedure

1. Part the hair into 4 equal sections, using a tail comb or tint brush...you must be VERY gentle to the scalp it will be very tender (on some), avoid scratching it.



2. Mix the Toner according to manufacturer's directions.

to be continued....

"Bleach" Versus "Lightener". . . . WAR OF WORDS

Wash your mouth out with....bleach?!?!

There was an article in one of the 2 million hair industry mag's I read, the other day that I cannot find again, but the jest of it was this, '

in today's world, women do not like referring to this procedure we have been studying as a "bleached blond" ....the terms have been revamped to please clients taste to : "lightened" "blonding" and "decolorization"...which I have started to use & will 'try' to incorporate into my vocabulary more & more.

On the other hand, Colorists between themselves know how bleach works, bleach is 95% less harmful than BOXED KITS, in my humble opinion. Those kits, produce different results every time they are used....Bleach is a "constant" it always works the same. We know what it does and how it works and love how it is extremely useful in hundreds of different ways.

There is no other product like it. None. Zip. Zero!! We would be lost in the world of Couture Hair ,Show Hair, Model's hair, Editorial Hair, Hair Contests, most common use: highlights, and to top it all off: the EMO kids would not be able to accomplish those crazy 'Do's
..........................................
................................Bleach; a crucial ingredient to the world of Hair Color



We use it to "Fix" many mistakes, so we are not scared or turned-off by the words. I do admit ....back before I started Hair Academy, I was one of those, and would cringe every time some one would call it "bleach" swearing to myself that I was going to be one of those that didn't use it!!!.........it took 1 full year before I understood the tremendous advantages of "lightener" (or bleach!) and how it would become my best friend .. I simply would not be able to do all the creative hair tricks without it. You come to cherish it. You really do. In my color closet right now , I have 7 different brands of powder bleach alone (some work faster than others)..2 types of Oil Bleach..Wella even has a colored bleach,I have 2 (Colored bleach? it both bleaches the hair and deposits colour -reds, excellent on Latino's with dark resistant hair ).

I hope to teach you to love it as we do and for you all to try to become friends with bleach. I will try my best to watch the words I use its just so much easier to say bleach.... if I blow it you will know why.



My suggestion?For those of you really trying to learn how to do some of these procedures, Read and re-read.....PLUS, either get some locks of hair -- Level 3, Level 6 and Level 8- most importantly your own level of hair... maybe some kids in your neighborhood are going to get their hair cut??? Ask around if you can borrow a swatch or two off of someone's head. Then experiment. Apply the bleach to your level of hair. See how long it takes to get to "FROZEN BUTTER" stage! Before you ever apply to your own head or someone else's hair.

I have found a few hair stylists are readers of Killerstrands... that is EXCELLENT. There are many schools around the country that did not focus on hair color which has left those of you with your Cosmetology License, yet no education on hair color. That will handicap you terribly if you don't learn how to do color. Never experiment on real clients until you know what you are doing. Please.

Killer Chemist

Dakota